B32 competition accidently purchased.

[neil1964]

You will need to strip the box and count the teeth on the cogs to see exactly what you have. Likely a close ratio cluster available for ZB Goldies up to '53 with that box.
You should get the BMS book 'The Gold Star Book'. Probably the most useful starting point.
As above the clutch is later 4- spring version similar to the Triumph one. Some hubs are plain, others are fitted with a thrust washer, you have to remove the basket to see behind it. Rollers are special size (not 1/4").

[Wildebeest90210]

I have the Gold Star book on the way from the US, finding quite a few bike related things easier and cheaper and even quicker from the US rather than Europe here in the UK.
To save me getting lost down a wormhole does anyone know if there is a belt drive conversion that will fit if I decided to go that way?

[neil1964]

To save me getting lost down a wormhole does anyone know if there is a belt drive conversion that will fit if I decided to go that way?

Yes there is a Newby clutch/belt drive kit.  The clutch I used on my raid bike is by NEB which comes in dry/belt type or wet/chain options, but because I want to retain option of a Pearson electric start, I went with chain type.  Thus far all good.
The belt obviates need for crank shock absorber and leaky chaincase (my biggest bugbear!)

[V500]

How does it obviate the need for the shock absorber?

[idie]

Supposedly the belt absorbed the pulses of the engine. A friend of mine had a Newby belt conversion on his BSA Super Rocket but got me to fit a conventional set up as he thought the belt drive to harsh. Having ridden it I had to agree. If you have problems sealing the chaincase do as I do and use a Cork gasket.

[V500]

"Supposedly" would be right. Toothed belts don't give, and if they did they'd be no good as timing belts.

[neil1964]

I am not a particular advocate for belt drive systems but going on the feedback  from quite a few people that have fitted them. The Newby kits do not have a shock absorber in either the clutch hub or on the crank. It was designed for racing but many are on the road now.
The belts on these are not as tight as cam belts (they are supposed to allow a 90 degree twist to be slack enough).
I'm happy with my set up thus far having been warned re: super accurate chain alignment for the Dural clutch sprocket.
Leaks also occur from the hub flinger behind the hub. My conversion has the Pearson sliding plate and dual lip seal (long term report in progress!). That also has SRM sprocket nut (with seal) and the mainshaft bearing has a seal plus the dedicated seal around the sprocket in the case. 
My off-roader is totally stock in this area except for foam vs felt slider seal.

[V500]

(they are supposed to allow a 90 degree twist to be slack enough).

That's the quick and dirty rule of thumb for all toothed drive belts, but that "setting" doesn't introduce any shock absorbing effect.
If riders are happy then good enough, but the bike is left with no mechanism for smoothing the engine pulses, which may be important to some.

[Derek996]

I have  spare 13:1 +0.5mm piston in good condition if it is any use to you.

[V500]

For use on dope?

[Wildebeest90210]

I have  spare 13:1 +0.5mm piston in good condition if it is any use to you.

Yes it might be, I plan to run on dope and will very probably have a blow up so would be good to have it ready. I'll try to work out how to send you a direct message.

[V500]

Just click on his name on the left of the panel and choose PM.

[Bigsingle]

I stripped the clutch today for inspection. Does this look like a standard unit? The ring round the outside is something I've done before on diaphragm clutches but I guess it helps the basket here as well.



I machined up a split coller to fit around the hub adapter , the amount of thread for a puller is ridiculous and the pullers strip too soft , I then use a bearing puller to clamp around that then screw in the Teo extensions and then put the puller bar across that , wind it up and give it a wack .cheers


The bearing was wobbly for sure but I guess with rollers this narrow that might be expected. Even so there is play  of maybe 15 thou, not measured it yet but it will need looking at.





Can anyone help ID the gearbox? I cannot find any marks anywhere, is it original to the '53 motor? I've looked for stamps in all the places the 'internet' says to look.

[Bigsingle]

I stripped the clutch today for inspection. Does this look like a standard unit? The ring round the outside is something I've done before on diaphragm clutches but I guess it helps the basket here as well.

This clutch looks like mine an early 4 spring triumph,  common upgrade parts are readily available,  the clutch adapters  come in two slight variations the part number with A on the end is slightly bigger in the taper and goes on a little further .I can dig up the number if you require . Cheers.



I machined up a split coller to fit around the hub adapter , the amount of thread for a puller is ridiculous and the pullers strip too soft , I then use a bearing puller to clamp around that then screw in the Teo extensions and then put the puller bar across that , wind it up and give it a wack .cheers


The bearing was wobbly for sure but I guess with rollers this narrow that might be expected. Even so there is play  of maybe 15 thou, not measured it yet but it will need looking at.





Can anyone help ID the gearbox? I cannot find any marks anywhere, is it original to the '53 motor? I've looked for stamps in all the places the 'internet' says to look.

[Cargers]

Hi there, your BSA was at the 2007 thundersprint. I was also there racing our 1956 Norton Dominator sidecar. I was the one hanging off the side. Here is a fuzzy photo taken from a youtube video showing your bike. Unfortunately I have mislaid my old programmes so cannot identify the rider.
Ian