Considering my first BSA

[Biggles987]

Hi chaps I have an itch to get an old bike and have spent a while looking at different models. My choice based on its looks is a B3 I would prefer a rigid rear but could compromise to a plunge.bike wouldn't be ridden a great deal but the idea is it would be ready and waiting should I get the urge.
Ideally I would like to buy a running useable bike and improve as we go.
As a kid my dad had an A65 which he never finished restoring and sold 90%finished and the an A7 shooting star which I messed about with in the garage whenever I could.
Obviously I'm interested in hearing everyone's views but I kind of get that it will be slow and uncomfortable. That is part of the appeal of the bike.
I was hoping to see on here some classifieds, as all I can find is either dealers, Facebook or eBay.

Look forward to words of wisdom or advice as you see fit.

[AndrewB44]

Got for it! You thinking single or twin? My advice though is to buy a complete bike that you can restore as you go (or all at once) if not already restored. Basically don't be daft like me and start with a pile of parts!

[neil1964]

Sounds like a good plan.
There seem to be a few around at different price points, flea bay has an assortment, some quite interesting.
Classifieds can be tricky unless you get some promises of back up.
You will need a decent magneto and an anti-drain back valve on the oil supply (to stop wet-sumping if you are only going to use it intermittently).
A rigid bike is simple.
I like the idea of a really original oily rag machine that just need maintenance, but your call.
Avoid projects needing lots of bits, major work or tinware unless you know what you are getting yourself into!

[Kernowpete2]

I got into old bikes just over a year ago when I bought a BSA C15T (250 trials) for a bit of green lane riding which I used to do a lot of on KTMs. About 6 months after buying the C15 (which has been nothing but trouble but a great learning curve) I bought a B31 from Andy Tiernan -  andybuysbikes.com his website is good for research and getting an idea of values. He also has links to videos of the bikes starting and riding. I saw my B31 on there and fell in love with it. It's a 1953 plunger with single seat. I've ridden various bikes from 125s to off roaders, sports bikes, commuter bikes etc and this B31 is the most fun I've had. It will do 60 (maybe 65) but I heed the warnings of the community and tend not to exceed 55 (it's revving quite fast at this speed). For the most part it keeps up with modern traffic on B roads and is fantastic fun on back roads, lanes, moors, coastal roads etc. I don't venture onto dual carriageways. I love the way it handles. It rides like a magic carpet until it hits a bump when it turns into a space hopper. I've had to do a fair bit to it - fork seals and bushes, clutch overhaul, replaced various gaskets, rewired the ignition, repaired the oil tank and done routine maintenance such as chain replacement, brake pad replacement, oil changes etc.
It's easy to start which may be partly due to it having thorspark ignition. You can understand how it all works just by looking at it. If you're a bit mechanically minded and have a bit of spanner twirling under your belt the plunger B31 is a great option as a first classic (IMHO). You also develop a mean look to deter all the people that want to talk to you about it everywhere you go

Here's mine - https://youtube.com/watch?v=sk030KJnzEI&si=ag49gal34VXX0gzl

I've put nearly 2000 miles on it in the last 6 months.

Just to add it's the most comfortable bike I've ever ridden. I'm 5'8". It's as if the bike was designed around me. The low seat massively improves low speed confidence too. I can pretty much sit stationary on it with a few throttle blips (since sorting out the wheel alignment!)

[Dan_B33]

Hello,
Make sure you take with you someone who knows them BSAs to avoid project like mine.
Buying ready to run machine is a good idea...

[V500]

For a beginner it's the only way.
Do NOT be tempted by "it just needs a front wheel and the timing doing mate" as invariably it'll need much more and more work besides.
Rigid B31s are the dearest and rarest so a S/A would be cheaper.

[Rog1]

For a beginner it's the only way.
Do NOT be tempted by "it just needs a front wheel and the timing doing mate" as invariably it'll need much more and more work besides.
Rigid B31s are the dearest and rarest so a S/A would be cheaper.

Indeed. If it "just" needs something doing, why haven't they done it? B31s are pretty common so you can get a good idea of typical asking prices and also pick and choose one you like. I have an M33, not too different from a B31 for our purposes here, and my allowance of 20% of what I paid for the bike to go for repairs has turned out to be pretty accurate, over several years and quite a few miles. One advantage of a single is, if you have to go for (let's say) a set of piston rings or a rebore it's a lot cheaper than the same job for a twin.

[Barnsey]

I bought a C15 fully restored but with a broken kickstart as my first BSA.  Two years on I still haven't ridden it yet.

So I concur.  Buy a good usable bike and learn on that.  It will give you loads to fiddle with. 

[yellow B31]

Be careful of dealers as well. They are greedy.
My B31 bought from a dealer with 'only the clutch needing fixing' required a top end overhaul and a mag rebuild.

[iansoady]

I was reading an old column of Rick Parkington in Classic Bike magazine and he was of the opinion that any old British bike will be a project and need 6 months' fettling. Judging by my experiences he was right......

[Biggles987]

Thanks for all the replies chaps I have been reading them, but with work and elderly parents not had the energy to give much time to finding a bike until today.
So I've been and looked at a rigid 1946 B31 today. It was a tad Smokey riding around the garden in 1st gear. My attention was drawn to the rear mudguard as it was very uneven to the centerline of the bike.
When viewed from the rear the number plate was maybe 2" off Centre. It seemed this was more to do with the stays? But I cannot be sure. The wheel spindle appeared square to the mounts and I was assured the snail cams were in place and linked.
I got down to ground level an observed the bike been ridden in a straightish line, from what I could see the rear wheel was around 1" offset to the right compared with the front when viewed from the rear. About the thickness of the brake drum.
Any thoughts?
I can't take anyone with me as I don't know anyone with a British bike!
Other than that it leaked oil and looked tidy, but it wasn't cheap.

[V500]

If you're unsure or you feel something's not right, move on, particularly if the price seems too high.
Plenty for sale these days.

[Kernowpete2]

With the length of the bike compared to the length of the spindle a tiny misalignment in the spindle really messes up the wheel alignment. My B31 wheel alignment was way off when I got it and this made the mudguard and number plate look way off. A string line and careful measuring got it spot on. I think I'd be more concerned about the smoke. If the rest of the frame looked straight but as V500 said there are plenty out there. Good luck!

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Biggles,

Why not join the BSAOC and go along to your nearest Branch.  There are may be bikes for sale and all the support you need for a good purchase.  Also, The Star has a section with bikes for sale.

Dave.

[cornishbob]

buy the cheapest you can find that you like the look of. find out what needs to be done and do what you can. learn about it and what to look for. then go out and using your new found knowledge buy the bike of your dreams.

sell the old knackered one to recoup the money and ride off into the sunset...or not