still not starting

[Barnsey]

I watched Hugh's video again.  The camplate in the points has 12 deg stamped on it.

I needed three hands for this bit, but, pushing the cam-plate around increased the advance from 2mm up to around 15mm. 

[Barnsey]

With the camplate pushed to the stop, the advance increased to about 15mm.  So, maybe I need to retard by 8mm. 

[rhyatt]

Just to be pedantic, you said...
Then

Just below this mark , file another mark at the distance the book says before tdc it should fire.
So, if it is 3/16" before tdc , put your lower mark 3/16" apart.

You would need to put the second mark -above- the first mark.   Making the length of wire 3/16 longer.

Also when kicking from TDC, try to extend your swing forwards, for the maximum kick rotation.

My apologies, the 2nd mark must be above the 1st mark , to ensure the points opening position is on the way upwards to tdc

[rhyatt]

Ok 2.25mm btdc
The points should just opening (give or take) here with the advance retard unit held fully advanced.

Put it this way , it should at least start and run here

[Barnsey]

Pushing the camplate to the right increased the advance from 2mm to around 15mm.  I am thinking that the 15mm is the fully advanced position.  Or did I misunderstand that? 

[rhyatt]

Just to explain advance and retard in terms of you looking at the points cam.

Determine the direction of rotation of your engine when kicking it over.
Anti clock or clockwise.??

If you wish to advance the timing then the points plate or distributor body need to be rotated in the opposite direction- ie against the direction of rotation.

Conversely , to retard the ignition the points plate of distributor needs to be rotated with the direction of rotation.

I've just taken a pic of my owner manual regarding starting.
I don't have any joy uploading stuff , if you can message me , I'll send to you

[iansoady]

If you're still on points ignition, that will be fully retarded. It sounds about right though maybe slightly too advanced. You can only measure 0.1mm (.004") with a dial gauge.

[Barnsey]

I retarded the timing back to the 7mm position and tried again following the starting technique in the manual. No joy unfortunately.  Just a few pops. Easy start didn't help. 

I'll order a condenser. This is about the only thing I haven't looked at.   

[rhyatt]

Do you want the timing procedure in the manual

[Barnsey]

That might be helpful, thanks!

[iansoady]

Ok 2.25mm btdc
The points should just opening (give or take) here with the advance retard unit held fully advanced.

Put it this way , it should at least start and run here

That doesn't sound anywhere near enough for fully advanced. It would be firing after TDC on full retard (ie starting) with this setting.

[V500]

I retarded the timing back to the 7mm position and tried again following the starting technique in the manual. No joy unfortunately.  Just a few pops. Easy start didn't help. 

I'll order a condenser. This is about the only thing I haven't looked at. 

I can't remember all the various things you've tried in this thread, but "I'll go and buy a....." is a very expensive way to fault find. The engine will run with the capacitor disconnected (should you believe the capacitor to be the cause) but if I was you I'd start again from basics and check all the various settings and positions.
"I moved it a bit" isn't a good way to get the engine running again as you're then introducing new faults.

[rhyatt]

What year is your c15 as it makes a difference

Has this bike ever run in your ownership?

[Barnsey]

It is 'A' plate, 1963.
And, yes, it was running a couple of months ago, although it wasn't easy to start. 

I have checked my work and the original timing was only out by 3 or 4 degrees.

FUEL :  Yes the plug is wet
IGNITION:  Yes the plug is sparking. I checked this afternoon. 
TIMING :  Yes.  See above.
AIR :  Goes without saying really, but no filter fitted to block it.
COMPRESSION : Checked with my thumb in the plug port. Seems fine.
TECHNIQUE :  Various tried.

Any one else got any new ideas before I chuck it of a cliff? 

Just to add insult to injury I discovered that the fuel is stripping the smart new paint off of the fuel tank as well as the chain guard which I spent ages painting.(And I used fuel proof lacquer!) 
 

   

[rhyatt]

I have sent you instructions for a distributor timing and side points timing

If it was running a few months ago , was it running well or not very well.
Ok difficult to start , but did eventually

You mentioned sparking , what colour spark , must be strong blue crack
Preferably unscrew the plug cap from the lead and jam the ht lead between 2 head fins to give you 1/4" gap for the spark to jump.

Does the spark jump the gap and what colour

Can you borrow a compression gauge to see exactly what the compression is , valve clearances checked correct ?