still not starting

[iansoady]

I think the coil case to frame resistance is a red herring. It's probably just the combination of paint and rust. But anyway doesn't matter as explained earlier.

[Barnsey]

Well, I'll update you all when the new battery arrives next week.  I won't do any more on it until then.  Just cross everything.

[iansoady]

Where are you getting your battery from? Tayna usually deliver the next working day. The last one I bought, a few weeks ago, was ordered late Saturday afternoon and arrived at 10 am on Monday. And at a brilliant price.

[V500]

Tayna are excellent. When I ordered a battery from them recently by physical size, a note flashed up on the screen saying that this battery was available cheaper (from them) in a different make. And it was, by about £8.

[Barnsey]

It was late on Sat that I ordered, so, hopefully it was shipped today and will be with me tomorrow.

I note too, that I found today that I could get an 8AH Cyclone to replace the two 2.5AH Cyclones which I have wired in parallel, but I will try out the Motobatt before I even think about going in that direction. 

[Barnsey]

Okay.  New Battery fitted. 5V on coil now.  Still won't start. 

I'll try some fresh fuel at the weekend, but, if Easy start doesn't help I don't expect fresh fuel will.

   Does anyone want to buy a bike? 

[Kernowpete2]

What part of the world are you in?

[V500]

Okay.  New Battery fitted. 5V on coil now.  Still won't start.   

That's still low. Have you tried the previously-mentioned flying lead straight off the battery?

[idie]

As said 5volt at coil to low the coil is not working at full capacity. A fully charged 6 volt battery should give 7.5 volts.

[Barnsey]

OK. I did try the flying lead previously, but I'll try it again with the new battery.  I'll repeat some of the other basic checks too. 

And, for the record, I am in Clanfield, near Waterlooville, in Hampshire.

[Barnsey]

I charged the battery up to 6.5V and added a wire directly from the battery negative to the coil.   I had 5 V on the coil.   Still not starting

However looking at the circuit diagram, in normal running, the positive return is through the engine to the frame, not through the black wire.  Measuring this path gave 3 ohms.  SO I am tempted to add an extra ground wire from the frame to the points cover. 

[rhyatt]

If your bike is pos earth then you're correct, as I indicated in an earlier post the HT voltage circuit is through the ht lead , cap , plug , engine to earth , and the pos earth lead to the battery.
If you have 3 ohms from battery earth wire to the frame or engine , then obviously correct that.
But have you checked the quality and strength and colour of the spark?
Get an old plug , bend open the electrode to 3/16 or 1/4 inch gap , lay it on the head and kick bike over , does it give a good strong blue crack of a spark ?
If not , unscrew the ht cap and lay the lead only on the head and kick over , does that give you a 1/4" spark.

[iansoady]

I always have a dedicated earth wire to the engine as otherwise you're depending on bolts going through paint, rust etc. I also fit earth wires to tail light and headlamp for the same reason.

[Barnsey]

Annoyingly I trashed my last ring terminal !  More on order.  Let's pray that they will arrive tomorrow so that I can do the job over the weekend.

I found the original loom which I had tucked away, and the previous owner had certainly added a couple of extra ground wires.  Maybe this was an issue.

[Barnsey]

New ring terminals arrived yesterday, so I fitted a new grounding wired between the rectifier bolt and one of the rocker cover nuts. 

Now showing 5.5 V on the coil.  Still losing a volt as the battery is 6.5V.   Fresh fuel added plus a squirt of easy start but not so much as a splutter.