A65 rebuild

[MITCHELL]

Morning Allan, the only thing on the shells was -30 as for micing the journals I'm afraid that above my pay grade. I'm a builder and most of my work is a couple of mil either way.😁

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

If the engineer who did the work is not too far away ask them to check the journals to ensure that they are perfectly flat/parallel across the journal as well as all around it.  The two lines of contact do suggest that there could be a couple of high spots so get them checked for peace of mind.

Dave.

[MITCHELL]

Hi Dave,
Unfortunately it's about a 4 hour round trip for me,but I think your right, best get them checked before starting again. I'll have a think a d see if I can find someone local. Regards Dave.

[MITCHELL]

Back again.
I've searched running in oil and Miller's competition running in oil comes up, is this the stuff I should be using on the rebuild?. Cheers Dave.

[chaz]

never use anything other than Castrol XXL ,well covered on assembly at each stage, con rod to crank then tipped up on end and filled the T/s hole a couple of times then oil bushes before the parts fitted and again all the time. I dont care if it falls out the bottom before sump plate goes on. It gets more.

Is ther anyone you know that can use a micrometer? a local engineering company? if you were close I could do it.

[MITCHELL]

Evening chaz, I'm in the process of asking around. That's a nice offer from you, I'm just south of Birmingham near to the M42 are you anywhere close?

[chaz]

down south below the M4 , Melksham home (former) of Avon Tyres,

[MITCHELL]

Morning chaz, but far really, but really appreciate the offer.May have someone local who said they'll have a look Friday afternoon. Will definitely take on board your soaking in oil tip. Cheers Dave.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I use a running in oil like Millar's.  The idea is to use it for a short period to allow the shells, rings, bores and journals etc. to 'get used' to each other.  For running in use the oil for the first 50 to 100 miles and then replace with what is left of the running oil topped up with the oil you are going to use and then after another 100 to 200 miles change the oil for your regular one.
Follow running guidance re revs, speed and engine load for at least 500 miles and the engine will last for many miles. 
A sump plate with a magnetic plug is a good idea to see what is happening.  A bit of oily sludge will probably be present as the rings and bores bed in and it should feel quite smooth when rubbed between finger and thumb. 
Ideally fit a filter in the return.

Dave.

[MITCHELL]

Hi Dave, 
I think you've fun through this before on the forum. I have a note book and anything I read that I think will be useful I make a note of and I have this jotted down.although  Halfords list Miller's they only sell it online so have ordered 5 litres. I'm playing with the oil pump whilst waiting and have a new work drive but need to replace the drive spindle as well. The only ones I can find have the Speedo drive, would one of these fit if I cut that off ? Cheers Dave.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

It is the tacho drive on the pump and I believe that it can fitted with the tabs on.  The pumps SRM supply have them.

Dave.

[cdsdorset]

I always use morris's running in oil.

[MITCHELL]

Hi
Just a quick update.
Crank journals are within 1 thou  so thats good news, found the box the original shells were in.... Hepalite. The new ones I picked up were also hepalite so I've shelved them and ordered some from S R M, interestingly there's about 30 quid difference so I suppose it's the old story you get what you pay for. Miller's running in oil has arrived  so as soon as the shells land I can start again. The new  spindle for the oil pump would not go in without undue pressure so I cleaned the inside of the pump with some 1000 grit paper and after about 10/15 minutes it was all nice and shiney and with a drop of oil the spindle dropped in nicely. Back with the next problem soon probably. Cheers Dave.

[Allan G]

You won't have any problems with the srm one.

I would still recommend doing a dry fit with some plastigauge first (the red one), before the final fit with oil.

Before fitting the crank worm gear. Mount the pump, connect the oil lines (so by this point you could have the bottom end fitted in the bike - don't fit the cylinders.

Fit the OPRV, fit the end of the tach drive if you have one in a drill chuck and put it on the end of the pumps tangs (if it has them) and spin the pump this will prime the crank and the journals with oil. Keep going until you see plenty of oil come past the TS bush and the shells/crank Webb. This will prevent any risk of running dry at the first start up. Assemble everything else and you're good to go.

You may need to remove the pump again to fit worm gear, this won't effect the priming. The crank will be absolutely full of oil and any air would soon get pushed out as soon as you start the engine.

[MITCHELL]

Hi Allan
Unfortunately I'd put the con rods on the crank today before I read your post but they rotate a treat now. I've dropped the crank into the drive side case and all revolves easily when I drop the other case on it gets a bit tighter but I think this maybe because it's not sitting true, I'll try it with some bolts tightened over the weekend and see what happens.Thanks for all your tips I'm making notes so I can trace it back. Cheers Dave.