How not to B33!

Started by Dan_B33, 17 Oct, 2023, 18:43

Previous topic - Next topic

Ian C

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 16 Mar, 2024, 13:28
If I'm not wrong that is : 65-3508, right?

65-3508 is correct part number for Gearbox Sprocket Oil Seal Dan, but TBF to PO, it looks like he fitted a sealed bearing, so if you do same and also fit the Oil Seal you've doubled up on sealing!! I have a friend who swears by leaving the seal on both sides of this bearing, as his logic is that the bearing will be saved from any metallic particles swilling about in the oil. You could also fit a PES drain plug which has a built in magnet like I did.
https://pesltd.uk/?product=28-0043


neil1964

When this was discussed before I went away and checked - the speed taring of bearings in grease is half that of those in oil.   Of course the gearbox bearings don't spin that fast so maybe a non-issue.
I have outer seal and keep the bearing outer seal too.

Dan_B33

I will go that way.
Someone have put Grease into the Gearbox. There was no oil at all.
When I've put some diesel gearbox started leaking....
Will find out when stripped ( I know on 4th gear) what was the issue. Life is not fair....I have some welded parts inside!!
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Dan_B33

I have decided to leave Gearbox for my emotions to cool down.

Question ❓ Magneto rotates anticlockwise, right? Then dynamo clockwise....looking from the timing side.

Asking since stator on my dynamo shows anticlockwise arrow....but I get current only by spinning the rotor clockwise.
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Ian C

#184
Hello Dan, These gearboxes were NOT designed for grease as you probably well know. The bushes rely on plenty of oil to keep them in tip top condition.. That last pic was almost impossible to translate into what it actually is BTW!! But if its the gear lever selector mechanism pawls, then they are often welded due to wear.
Now regarding your mag and looking from the timing side of the engine, the mag would turn anti-clockwise. From the Crank pinion (CW) to Inlet Cam (ACW) to Idler Gear (CW) to Mag Pinion (ACW) so as the dynamo runs off the fibre gear inside the Mag housing it would run CW.

Dan_B33

Thanks Ian.
I didn't know that oil is so crucial for this gearbox.
I hope damage inside is not too big.

At least dynamo is in working order....and is producing some voltage ⚡. Still not 100% original...
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Dan_B33

Big end is waiting for bearings to come from UK.
This time I will have some oil flow at the top...naw bush aligned and adjusted ...
Parts are packed and will leave Preston this weekend! Yupi!
Currently I'm working still on adjusting magneto base in engine casing. I had to fit helicoils to fix threads for clutch case fixing bolts...kill me they are metric now M8x1.25!
Have good weekend ALL!
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Dan_B33

Question ⁉️:
What shall be that distance from the picture?
My clutch case was enforced (fixed) that moved it couple of mils away from Gearbox. I have already removed about 3mm of this extra metal. Need to know if I'm safe with this 7mm ?
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Ian C

#188
Not having any dimensions available to hand, my thought process would be to fit the felt washer and sliding plate then fit the clutch hub and check for clearance there between hub and sliding plate. What clutch are you going to use with the bike.. 4 or 6 spring? Further to this, the front mount for the chainguard is off the rear of the primary back cover, so you'll have to get the position somewhat correct for the guard to fit right.

Dan_B33

Hello,
Idea is to fit 6 spring clutch. This is what I had there.
I have bought some second hand clutch in UK and will try to make one working set with brand new metal plates and no-suflex clutching plates .
Before strapping the bike I have noticed that clutch case was moving with press of the clutch lever....which shouldn't happened right?
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Ian C

Primary case shouldn't move.. Sounds as if clutch was culprit. I tried the 6 spring on my M33 and gave up with it as I couldn't adjust it to stop drag or slip, so bought the 4 spring clutch kit from Kidderminster Motorcycles. Up to now it has been no problem.

Dan_B33

This is plug and Play this Kidderminster Motorcycles?
I think I will try with 6 springs first since invested 100 quid in fricton plates an metal plates already...
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum

Ian C

The 4 spring clutch kit is fit and (don't have to mess too much) in my estimation Dan. I even fitted one to my WM20 as I had issues with the single spring clutch that was originally fitted.

neil1964

I think that it is possible to get a 6-spring clutch to work well onece you have the centre running true with decent bearings etc. 

I could never get my 4-spring clutches not to crunch without freeing it off when cold (clutch pulled in and a swing on kickstart) it got to be a habit/ritual. 

Maybe the choice of drive plates and oil grade? 

My 6-spring with 600 motor using genuine Surflex plates and modern chaincase oil is light on action and works well, although I have not attempted to loft the front wheel yet!  Ultimately I will likely fit an NEB assembly if it misbehaves.

Dan_B33

Question why this baskets have different heights? All 6 springs. Is it for 3-4-5 plates?
Not an expert! But made it with help of this forum