Rear mudguard - beading

[Phil C]

Hello everyone,

Please see pics. Where the light housing meets the mudguard there is what appears to be a kind of beading, which on my bike is beginning to look a bit worse for wear, and I'm wondering if it might be worth renewing it at some stage. I assume it's there to keep the rain out. Could someone tell me what it is, how it's removed, how it's fitted, etc?  Thanks very much in anticipation of the usual expert advice.

Phil

[Dean Southall]

Its simply a piece of rubber beading that is a push fit on the light housing. It can be pulled off when you remove the light housing.

[Derek996]

Grommet strip https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224527120071?hash=item3446dbf6c7:g:n1oAAOSwY7VahBNG

[Phil C]

Great, thanks very much Dean and Derek. I'll get some and fit it, but I guess that will mean first taking off the housing, which in turn will mean removing the back wheel to get at the bolts. As we used to say when I worked in a workshop long ago, there's no such thing as a five-minute job! 
Phil

[AdrianS]

I think I just cut open a length of rubber tubing I had and that worked well

[Phil C]

Got some rubber beading, but never mind a five minute job, five hours might be a result. A problem with thin hex (slightly domed) head screws is there's not much to get a purchase on. Two of the four have come undone, two are refusing. Photo shows inside of rear mudguard, position of bottom two screws (top two are out of shot.) Ordered a socket to fit (secondhand, ebay), but not sure that will do it, as a ring spanner and an open-ender have failed. WD40 applied. Hopefully the socket (when it arrives) will do it, if not then more destructive methods might be needed. Could try a hot air gun before that perhaps. Then maybe a punch. Awkward access doesn't help. And of course they've maybe been in there since 1965.  Keeps me occupied anyway.

Phil

[Greenfield]

Hi Phil
Keep soaking both sides of the screws until the socket arrives. If there's a bevel on the inside edge of the socket, grind it off so that the points are in maximum contact with the hex head. With pressure on the socket to prevent it lifting, see if it will tighten just a little, then slacken and tighten repeatedly until it finally undoes. Once it starts moving add a little oil to any exposed threads to ease things. Go and have a cup of tea, then finish the job. Fingers crossed.
It might be advisable to renew the screws for reassembly.

[Phil C]

Yes, thanks Paul, some good points there.

New screws ordered.

Just now, growing impatient waiting for my socket to arrive (est next Monday), I got a parallel punch, placed it on the edge of the hexagon head of one of the stuck screws, and gave it a few wallops. It didn't turn even the slightest bit.    Looks like I might have to buy a set of eazy outs. Anyway, I guess I should be patient and try the socket when it arrives.

Phil

[Greenfield]

I've had mixed results with easyouts, usually failing. Give it a good try when the correct socket arrives. This will give the best leverage. You'll only cause damage without the correct tools, as evident in many of our bikes. If the hex head gets rounded and it just won't budge without damaging the mudguard, what I would do is very carefully cut away the centre of the head the width of the thread with a small angle grinder and the bolt will fall away. Make sure you cover any delicate areas that might be damaged by sparks.
What did you say about a five minute job.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

If resorting to a grinder try making a good depth slot for a screw driver. 

Dave.

[Phil C]

I've had mixed results with easyouts, usually failing. Give it a good try when the correct socket arrives. This will give the best leverage. You'll only cause damage without the correct tools, as evident in many of our bikes. If the hex head gets rounded and it just won't budge without damaging the mudguard, what I would do is very carefully cut away the centre of the head the width of the thread with a small angle grinder and the bolt will fall away. Make sure you cover any delicate areas that might be damaged by sparks.
What did you say about a five minute job.

And then drill out the threaded bit on the bench, I guess.

[Phil C]

Socket arrived early, but didn't do the job. Using the dremel, I ground off the heads, which enabled me to remove the numberplate/light unit from the bike and get it on the bench. The screws, minus heads, are still stuck in there. Tried molegrips clamped very tight on the bit of one of them that was protruding, but no luck - they're jammed pretty solid. So anyway (why am I telling you this?!  ) I've now ground the ends of the screws flat and am trying to drill them out, in stages, to something like the core diameter of the thread, so as to leave the thread intact. But I'm working with a hand-held electric drill, and the screws are pretty hard. Anyway, I'll see how it goes. Bet you can't wait for the next installment! 

Phil

[Phil C]

In case you're interested, here's an update: I got the two stuck screws out, using a cobalt drill bit. Threads cleaned with a tap. Pleased with the result.  Phil

[Phil C]

When fitting rubber beading to a metal edge, is it good to use a smear of silicone sealant or something, which might make it easier to remove if necessary at some time in the future?