Fork leg removal (1965 B40F)

[Phil C]

Evening all,

Feel a bit of an idiot. I've got tool 61-3350 (fork leg remover) but can't see how it works! Not having removed a fork leg ever before doesn't help, of course! I've removed the pinch bolt, and screwed the black threaded part of the tool into the top where the chrome cap was, and given it a wallop with a nylon hammer, but nothing is moving. (Presumably the long threaded part of the tool is for reassembling the forks?) Looking down the hole, I don't see much! Could someone enlighten me please?

Phil

[LightningAndStarfire]

Some heat from a heat gun applied to the yokes could help. If you are not too concerned about the paintwork.

On my TRW250 the chrome top nuts were a bit shabby, I loosened them a couple of turns and with a sharp hammer blow on the nut the leg came loose without heat. Cheers

[Phil C]

I tried loosening the cap a few turns and giving it a knock, but nothing moved.

[Spaceman]

The problem is that the top of the fork leg fits into a tapered hole. Applying a bit of heat will help but you need to hit the slightly loosened nut with a heavy mallet to break the taper lock. If necessary, use something the weight of a club hammer with something on the nut to protect the surface.

[JulianS]

The original BSA tool (a lot shorter) was designed to be struck hard with a hammer to break the taper in the top yoke.

It may help to carefully tap a wedge into the machined slot in the bottom yoke to open it slightly. Any rust or dirt on the shaft does not help.

Can you screw your fork leg remover into the leg, support it and hit it with a hammer.

[Phil C]

I assume it's only one small bit of the tool (an inch or so long) that should be screwed in and hit?

[idie]

I assume you have undone the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke. tap an old screwdriver into the slot to open it. A nylon hammer is a waste of time. Screw the tool into the stanchion and hit it hard with a heavy mallet, as said they can be tight on the taper.

[Phil C]

Yes I've removed the pinch bolt (see photo - a bit blurred, sorry.) I guess I need to use a bigger hammer.

Am I right in saying the longer part of the tool is just for the refitting stage?

Phil

[Spaceman]

Whether you use the special tool or the top nut, you have to impart a sufficiently large impulse to break the lock of the taper. I normally use a Thor Copper Rawhide mallet as shown below for this type of job which weighs 1.6 kg or just over 3 lb! As said, a club hammer, although lighter, would probably still do the job with a sheet of wood in between to protect the surface of the nut.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mallets/0732533?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Hand_Tools_Whoop-_-Mallets_Whoop+(2)-_-732533&matchtype=&aud-827186183726:pla-297194765008&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9OiPBhCOARIsAI0y71Bo1ZFIAGnsRQZ2MgbpYpE76GkdTWP6yksv8sJ7Dr5VQFMivRv0XicaArOLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Phil C]

Morning everyone,

I've just tried clouting it with a club hammer, hitting the tool you see on the photo, screwed into the cap hole (protected with a bit of wood when I hit it of course.)  No movement. It seems solid. Am I missing something? Regarding opening up the slot, where exactly? I don't see where it will open out. There are spot welds here and there - hopefully there are meant to be.

Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Phil

[JulianS]

Phil - You should see the slot like photo below - an A10 item but same principle on the B40- gently does it just a fraction too much and it can fracture- and if not already done disconnect the battery.

The taper in the top toke can be hard to break. I use a lump hammer on my A10.

[Pete C]

Julian beat me to it but here are my pics from an M21

[Phil C]

Thanks very much indeed, Julian and Pete, for the photos. Very good of you to take the trouble to do that. I eventually found the split and tried opening it with a screwdriver whilst my wife donked the tool with the club hammer, but no luck. After a while I hit it harder and it moved. I then opened the split again and out it came. Hooray! I guess it's natural to be reluctant to use a hammer too enthusiastically when you're not very sure what you're doing!

Anyway, onwards. I expect I'll be back, picking your brains, when I strip it down!

Thanks again.

Phil

[Pete C]

congratulaions!
the tool you have will come in handy when you put t back together. 

[Phil C]

Wasn't long before I was back asking more questions, was it?

I have undone the oil seal holder, using the tool with the two dogs on it (needed the hot air gun as well) but the seal holder doesn't slide off the end. It only slides part way (see photo), until it meets an increase in the diameter of the stanchion. So obviously it needs to slide off the other way, which means I have to remove the stanchion from the slider. Preventing me doing that is a wire spring clip just inside the slider. It's like a circlip but without the eyes at each end, and as it's a pretty strong spring it's hard to get out. I've tried with a scriber but had no joy. Is there a secret?

Phil