A65 rebuild

[MITCHELL]

Hi, made a start on the engine today so be prepared to be peppered with queries, the head seems in fair condition apart for one piece missing  where it appears a bolt should fit , see photo. I can't see what would bolt into this missing piece so do I need to get it repaired or not?. The cylinder is grotty but technically very little damage to the bore,s , the piston is stamped +020 so if I remember correctly it can be rebored up to + 060.
1 what would be the best way to clean up the head and barrel?
2 should I have new valve guides  while I'm doing it.
3 any recommendations for the rebore, I live a couple of miles South of birmingham boundary.

[chaz]

the piece missing is for the stud for the rocker cover, it could be built up with weld or a good stud and JB weld putty used to build up. oil the thread of the stud and it should be possible to remove stud if needed.
Ive had my cases and head blasted with a very fine media, cleaned up nicely and washed out., barrel could be blasted then painted with a cylinder black, heat proof paint.
have you checked the guides? personally, as Im spending hundreds on parts Ive had the guides done to suit new valves, saves any problem later.
rebores? should be someone locally, Personally, Piston Broke in Bristol. good but slow due to his work load.

[wardy]

I've used both Trident Motorcycles in Dudley (Steve) or E and D Engineering Bilston (Mick) for engineering work, both are familiar with these engines and not far from you. Yes I believe it can go to +0.060. The barrel casting and liners look very robust

[MITCHELL]

Thanks both,thought it may be a stud as it lines up with a hole in the rocker box which has a nut and bolt fitted at present,  is this to accommodate a stabilizer of some description ? Cheers Dave.

[chaz]

no, the engine steady bolts to front cover bolt not the top ones. between the front U shape cut out.

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Mitchell,

This is just for securing the rocker cover.  The lug still with dirt around it next is for the head steady.  If you do not already have them, it is worth getting a workshop manual and a parts book. Both are very helpful for a rebuild and have useful illustrations.
Keep asking questions though.

Dave.

[MITCHELL]

  thanks again, I have a couple of manuals but you know blokes, do it then read the instructions,..... Promise to send my ways.

[MITCHELL]

Hi, cylinder head ring repaired by a fabrication co I know, they allowed me to use their head blaster and although it took some time it came up like new,when it's been repaired should I great it to keep the finnish ?.Stripping the festive going well but the clutch is well rusty and looks like it'll be a complete new assembly, the plate and filter on the underside are pretty grotty, is it possible to obtain replacements as I don't think they'll clean up well, waiting for a socket to come to remove the clutch then hopefully can split the crank cases the weekend, anything I should watch out for? Cheers Dave.

[Mike Farmer]

 

If you need to replace your clutch it might be worth considering fitting a belt drive dry clutch. About £585 complete. and finding and fitting a new clutch wont be a whole lot less.

Worth a thought. I've just fitted one.

Mike

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

I have never seen so much crud in the sump of and engine.  Perhaps a combination of a lot of miles and few proper oil changes.  The sump parts are available so consider one with a magnetic plug to make oil changes easier and to catch any ferrous sludge.
As you will have to remove the clutch anyway have a good look at it.  It may clean up but if not consider Mike's suggestion for a belt drive or a complete standard clutch.  Either way cheaper than buying the parts separately.
When splitting the cases make sure all the bolts and stud nuts are removed especially the one just in front of the cam.  As it looks like the engine has not been apart for some time it may be worth using some penetrating oil on the studs before trying to separate the cases.  Do not use excessive force or lever them apart at the joint.  If having to knock them apart use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood to hit against.  Strip and rebuild like a tortoise and then you can ride like a hare.

Dave.

[wardy]

You will probably need the right puller to get the clutch hub off the shaft. Can be very tight

[MITCHELL]

Hi, if you have any info on the dry clutch Mike I,d be interested to read up on it, I watched a U tube clip the other day which had an srm replacement clutch with some modifications that looked interesting, been covering everything in wd40 on a regular basis particularly over night and using some softwood slightly tapered wedges  to ease bits appart, think your right about a pully  the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft seems pretty stubborn, also having a bash at rubbing down the side covers lots of scratches and some deeper groves that I think may have to stay, thanks for the tips, if/ when this is done I may have to tour the country buying  beers, 

[MITCHELL]

 Hi,
Spent a couple of hours getting the clutch plates out today, rusted in pretty badly but came up with a way of getting the beggars out, ground the top of a wood screw and by screwing into the appropriate slot the spiral wound the plates out, my manuals don't refer to the exact clutch I have but looking at what I now have I presume the sprocket on the crank and the clutch housing "just" pull off.....gave up this afternoon, suffering phil,s problem freezing cold feet........ Wonder if I could bring it into the kitchen.

[DAVE BRADY]

Good afternoon,

I like the use of the wood screw as a plate extractor.  Whilst it all looks a bit manky the slots for the plates look quite good and the plane plates may even clean up and be usable so long as they are flat.  The basket and crank sprocket should just slide off with the chain unless the rollers are seized.  If they are then the track they run on could be damaged and anything other than perfectly smooth is not really usable. A specific puller is need to remove the centre/sleeve from the gear box main shaft.  I would do a bit more cleaning and then see what is needed to make it good clutch.  You may find that buying complete new one is the best option.  The advantage of buying a complete SRM clutch is that they say they match/assemble the parts for best fit and comes with the SRM pressure plate that on its own is about £60.  Add on new plates, roller bearing, springs etc. and the complete clutch looks like a bargain.  If you are going to keep/use the bike it will be worth it.
Currently I am running an old 4 spring in quite a pokey engine but will probably get an SRM 3 spring some time in the future.

Dave.

[Nanonevol]

I'd stick with the 4 spring clutch.  Superior design that BSA dropped to make the cheaper 3 spring.
Mine is light as a feather.  Get a SRM pressure plate if you want to spend money.