clutch hub

[Taffyboy]

I've stripped the clutch side of my '65 a65 today, but for the life of me, cannot budge basket from the shaft. Got the proper tool and a breaker bar on the end, but no joy. afraid if I go to far, summat gonna strip/ break ..Any suggestions, folks...?

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Taffyboy,

Get the extractor as tight as you can so that there is pressure on the taper.  Apply gentle heat until any oil on it starts to bubble and then a sharp whack on the extractor should free it.
I have just done this in a one of my A65s.

Dave.

[Taffyboy]

Only just realized that 4 spring and 3 spring clutches are different (apart from the obvious...). Does that mean they are disassembled differently? I say i'm using the correct puller but I have my doubts now. ( 3 spring tool...?)

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

The early 4 spring clutch has an extra thrust washer and the centre is captive in the back of the chainwheel/basket.  The process for removing the centre from the taper is the same.  If the puller is correct it will screw fully in to the centre and once the puller bolt is fully tightened it should come off with a sharp tap with a hammer.  No breaker bar needed.  If it will not budge then as mentioned a bit of heat and then a sharp tap should free it off.
The drawing in the parts book will help to see how it all goes together.

Dave.

[JulianS]

The clutch pullers are 26 tpi for up to 1965 4 spring and then 20 tpi for the 1966 on 3 spring so if it screws in you have the correct puller.

[Taffyboy]

Well that didn't work  . Heated it up, whacked it a few times, hub still stuck fast. Only possess a cheapo Toolstation torch, but hotenough to to get grease/oil bubbling. Think basket is knackered anyway. Whatever, has to come off..!

[Taffyboy]

.. Been attempting to attach a photo to make it a bit clearer, says it too large

[Nanonevol]

I had a real stubborn one once.  I assume you are using some kind of penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil. 
Let it soak for a while if you can be patient.  Mine finally released with a whack on the clutch tool.

[Taffyboy]

So I can assume the clutch basket is scrap...Is there any preference between a 3 and 4 spring clutch, is the conversion viable and do able?

[Taffyboy]

Well that photo malarkey clearly didn't work. doh!

[EDDIE SIMPSON]

it needs a heavy duty puller with a bearing separator behind the collar as well as heat. i wouldnt hit it with a hammer myself, a blowtorch to release the taper under tension. maybe borrow a puller?

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi Taffyboy,

Both the 3 and 4 spring clutch fit on the taper so either will do.  They are both a bit fiddly getting set up properly but once done work well.  If you are going to change the whole clutch why not consider a complete new one from SRM.  They say that they assemble the clutches with matched parts to get the best clutch. At about £430 it looks expensive but by the time you either find second hand parts or assemble new parts it will not look that bad. The SRM clutch also comes with the SRM pressure plate.  Worth a look.

Dave.

[Taffyboy]

Ah, sorted finally. . Heated it up again,it came straight off with no grief. Must be a combination of plusgas ans neighbours torch. He's a gas plumber, got proper job to do it. Another thing i've noticed  the primary chain has a split link in it. I assume that's a no-no..?

[DAVE BRADY]

Well done.  It looks like the early 4 spring which I think the best one as it has two thrust washers to hold the centre more securely and reduce the amount of wobble.  Down side is it is hard to find new plain  plates and it is a bit heavier.  New thrust washers do not seem to be available but could be made.  If all  the parts are in good order stick with it but invest in an SRM pressure plate.
Definitely replace the primary chain with a continuous one.  The triplex chain is very reliable but to put such a weakness in it seems a bit mad to me.  Also, get a good branded one.

I see in the photo some wear ridges in the slots for the friction plates.  This can be improved by carefully dressing with a fine file.

Dave.

[Taffyboy]

The ridges seem quite deep. Would filing them create too much of a gap between it and the plates? There must be 1mm of movement before hand..