A50 clutch puller

[AdrianS]

I am going to renew my primary chain on my A50 in the hope of curing what sounds like Tappet rattle from the chaincase.
A couple of questions:
1. It is an early A50 (62/63) - what size clutch puller do I need. I believe there are several different pullers.

2. Is there anything in the clutch that can cause a rattle or I should replace? There is a small amount of play when I rock the clutch but not what I would call excessive.

3. The sprockets look very good so hopefully I wont have to renew them but will fit a new tensioner blade.

[JulianS]

Presuming the clutch is a standard 4 spring it takes puller original part 61 1912, same for 4 spring A10.

1 inch x 24tpi thread.

[A10 JWO]

Many old ones have Triumph Clutches, my puller fitted my A65 and fits my 1970 T100T.  As you say, all clutches float.

[beezabob]

Did your" tappet rattle" from the chaincase sound like this .. and if so did you find the cause? Anyone else got an ideaa why i am getting this knock?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjgFeDVKl3s

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

The A65 primary can be done without removing the centre from the tapered shaft.  Once the nut is removed the hub should come off the spines although it may take a bit of wriggling.  Once this is off the basket will come off.
The alternator must be removed as the clutch basket and the crank sprocket come off and go on together.  Unless the tensioner blade is through to the metal it may be worth leaving it.  A new one will get worn by the side plates of the chain until the rollers make contact and then wear is minimal as the rollers roll across rather than slide.  Until this point the chain will need a bit of adjusting to compensate.  Once running on the rollers the chain will need very little adjustment.
The chain tension on the A65 is very small - about 1/8th" total and I suspect it is very small on the unit singles as well as the primary is pretty much the same design.
The nature of the cases being quite closed in compared to a pre-unit engine gives plenty of scope for noises to be heard dislocated from the origin. 
So if the alternator is tight on the crank and the chain is correctly adjusted then the noise could be coming from the timing side.  This could be a bit of backlash in the timing gears or worn cam/cam followers.  These noises are far more evident at tick over/low engine speeds.

Dave.

[beezabob]

Thanks for the reply Dave Brady and apolgies to AdrianS for somewhat hijacking your post. this is my update. Update.. I find that moving clutch centre( as shown in first 13 seconds of video) seems normal until it is tightened up. As soon as it is nipped up the circular play increases drastically ( 2nd portion of video) and evey 180 dgrees seems to bind. So logically the binding is centre not pulling on straight to clutch centre boss but why the massive increase in rotational play on tightening which i think is giving me the knocking i am hearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0uH3uZHico

[DAVE BRADY]

Hi,

Have you got all of the rollers in there?  If not they will tend to gather towards the front and even when running they will try to go completely around but at low speed will possibly go toward the front and maybe make the sound you are hearing.  The A65 has twenty and when 'full' it looks like another one may fit but it won't.  I would imagine that the unit single will look like one is missing when 'full'.

Dave.

Just had another look at the video.  Although the splines do not look too worn it looks like the bit of movement is the hub on the centre and once tightened up it could be that you are feeling a bit of normal slack in the gear box.  Assuming you have the rear chain on, engage a gear and move the back wheel to see how much play there is in gears.  There will some.

[AdrianS]

To reply to BeezaBobs question, no, I still have some noise coming from the primary case.
I ended up stripping the whole engine; rebore to 40 thou over as there was a lot of bore wear, crank grind and replace the timing side bush as was shot to pieces with about 12-15 thou play. New timing chain and tensioner and timing intermediate gear. Everything else checked and deemed to be serviceable. I just put up with the noises from the engine.

[beezabob]

Ok, disregard most of the above ramblings. On examination of cush drive realised the interference fit of spider on back plate shouldn't be interference, it should move freely, it was actually rust. Cleaned that up and also noticed a couple of spalled rollers so new rollers. Now it all turns freely by hand. Still a bit of rattle but maybe slightly less and more regular. Guess i can live with that for the moment given the cost of replacing all the clutch parts. Next stop checked 12v electrics but no zener diode ! I have a 110w chinese rectifier regulator. Will test it with that and if it works invest in a 160w proper job. The stator is marked 10a so i guess it will need a better one. 13 x 10 =130 watt . All keeps me amused. Thanks for your input guys.