Removing plunger A10 head races

[Jackson]

I'm thinking seriously of putting tapered roller head races into a my plunger A10 as it will be pulling a chair.
I don't have the special tool 61-3063 for removing the cups.
Can anyone tell me the size and type of the thread inside the cups. I will then make my own.
Failing that - any idea where I can buy one?
Adrian.

[JulianS]

Before buying a tool I suggest check if you can get a drift on the race from the other end of the headstock tube and simply tap it out.

Some of the repro races do not have the threads.

[Jackson]

Thanks - I'll try that. It will be next week before I can get to it.
I've got plenty of bar I can use.
Adrian

[Greybeard]

Adrian.
Draganfly list this one under the same part number. Might be worth giving them a call to confirm fitment.
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/triumph-shop/twin-cylinder/product/11860-head-race-cup-extractor-1-4-ball-head-races-1-1-2-x-24tpi

I got mine off an ebay seller a while ago but he's sold out now. Beautifully made and a breeze to use. You'll not get the original races out without butchering the frame as the diameter of the outer race is smaller than than the headstock casting so there's no edge to tap at with a drift 
I put tapered races in my 52 plunger and the steering is transformed, it's silky smooth now. A mod well worth doing. You might find that you have to put a slight chamfer around the headstock casting to allow the tapered inner race to clear it. It doesn't need much and is easily done with a dremel/similar. Of course, the new outer races don't have the threading for an extractor to be used at any time in the future but I reckon by the time they need replacing again I'll be well past caring and contactable only via a ouija board 
You anywhere near East Yorkshire?

Steve

[Jackson]

Thanks Steve,
Yes the ones from SRM are what I was looking at.
I'll  make sure mine have a thread before getting the extractor.
I saw the eBay ones are sold out.
Regards,
Adrian

[Greybeard]

If they are the original cups there will be a thread though its not very obvious. In fact youd think that a screw in extractor wouldnt stand a chance of holding on well enough to knock them out.
The tools are a bit pricey for a once in a lifetime job but make the job so easy. I also have a 53 B31 that may need new races one day which was part of my justification for buying one 

Steve

[Jackson]

Funny that! I thought I'd checked Draganfly.
They give  the size as 1 1/2 x 24tpi.
I might try and make one after I've measured the hole in the middle of the cup.
I'm considering an M something when I've finished the A10 so I might be able to construct a similar justification if I can't  make an extractor.
Regards,
Adrian

[Mike Farmer]

 

If you have access to a mig welder or of course a friend with one---Run about a 2" weld along the centre of the bearing obviously around it, in the normal track. They will then fall out. Be very careful not to weld them in--cos that will surely surely give you some serious grief. Make sure your battery is disconnected cos sometimes your electrics aint happy with a bucketful of volts shoved in. Warning they are bloody hot when they come out.

Mike

[ChrisG]

Hi Jackson,
If you have a spare LH side bicycle crank cup. (the adjustable one) that is the same size. Just screw that in and knock them out with a bar from the other end. If you haven't got one, old style cycle shops sell complete kits for less than a tenner.

[Jackson]

Thanks Editor,
Just been round the local shops with no joy - all 1.37"
I'm going to turn one up out 1.5" bar.
Now having fun and games adjusting the change wheels on the lathe
Regards,
Adrian

[Jackson]

Thanks everybody. I'm sorted now.
Decided to do the right thing - converted my mini-lathe to imperial (new lead screw etc., I had them already just hadn't  bothered changing them) and put a 24 tpi thread on the end of some 1.5" bar. The cups came out easily.
Next job is rear wheel bearings and then start putting the engine back together after its regrind and re-sleeve.
Thanks again.
Adrian