B25 damper rod fork reassembly - stanchion puller needed?

[MadPete]

ordered a "TRIUMPH T120 T100 TR6 5TA 1964-67 FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE 37-1641" I can always send it back if it don't fit

[limeyrob]

I've been looking for that table and I can't find it, thought I'd saved it. If it turns up I'll post in on here.
You may have to build the brake plate up with weld. I got a local welders to do it.  If your forks are painted its probably easier to build up the steel lug but mine were chromed.  You may have to move the rim over a bit, measure off the fork legs, it should be central.  Mine was about 1/4" off

[JulianS]

The 1968 only forks have a longer lug than the A10 type, when I fitted the TLS to my 1968 B25 there was plenty of engagement fork to brake plate.  The photo shows 1968 fork top and A10 type bottom.

[MadPete]

Oh Lardy! What fun rebuilding this BSA is... :0(  I have found a suitable illustration of the spindle length problem:


On the plus side the new front wheel spindle seems to be the correct part, mainly based on the fact that the spindle groves and the slider bolt holes line up. Now to rebuild the wheel with the correct spindle and (probably) some new bearings. It seems I have to unscrew the retaining plate and bash the spindle out with the "brake plate side" bearing. As the spindle only presses on the inner race I suppose that may get micromangled during extraction and need replacement.

I am tempted to make a bearing ring removal tool (any suggestions?) but I may just buy one!

[limeyrob]

A large hide mallet is your friend with these wheels.  There's no special tool needed but take your time checking for circlips and shims just in case.
Be prepared to have to shift the rim over a 1/4" or so.

[MadPete]

I think a good hiding with a mallet would be a useful emotional release... :0)

I note the suggested "clutch rod and lever" method to remove the bearing retaining ring mentioned in Mr Ratio's encyclopaedia. So I went to the garage and tried it. Neat! It works and I unscrewed the bearing retaining plate.

If you use this method then make sure the clutch rod is well pushed in and seated. Then use a large flat bladed screwdriver (or similar) to make sure you engage with the push rod as close to the retaining plate as possible. If you push any further up the rod then the rod will bend...

Now to go get the blow tourch to get the OS bearing out. Slowly, slowly....

[JulianS]

I would not use a blow torch. With the bearing retainer out drift the brake side bearing out using the hide mallet on the spindle end. When that one is out remove the circlip and cover over the bearing on the other side, reverse the spindle and use it as a drift to knock it out.