SRM clutch

[Mikey82]

My 1963 Golden flash has been rebuilt to a very high standard and I've done 1200 miles since rebuild, wow what a lovely bike it is.
If I had to find a fault to compare it to my newer bikes I would say the clutch levers a bit tight, and finding neutral is difficult especially when stopped.
Has anyone fitted the new SRM clutch and does it improve the problems I,m getting...or advise what I can do to improve what I have ( i have the 4 spring clutch)
Thanks in advance 

[neil1964]

I had the SRM alloy 4-spring,needle roller clutch on my Triumph Daytonas and it worked well.  Did it work that much better than the original? - no I don't really think so. It always needed freeing off after standing overnight but didn't drag when hot and finding neutral or sitting a lights never an issue, things that I could achieve with the stock set up with tweaking.
A properly set up 4-spring (and tbh, even 6-spring) can be made to work well with non-knackered components.  I think improvements people notice after replacement are due to things like introducing non-warped plain plates, good quality friction plates (always use Surflex) correct length and rated springs set to give even plate lift but not coil bound.  Other things important are the handlebar lever pivot, clutch nipple in lever free to rotate, good cable well lubricated, the pivot in gearbox outer cover not sloppy (see lots of shiny covers with nicely chromed lever but worn oval case!), correct angle of the lower pivot on the fine splines inside the gearbox cover.  All these should be 100% before ripping old one out (IMHO).
Maybe your components are knackered and a whole kit is more cost effective. I think Kidderminster Motorcycles sell a full kit too. 
I've got an NEB (speedway type) clutch on my 600.  Presently does not slip on full load but does drag a little when hot.  When I get time going to pull it all down and work out why, but it's not bad enough to stop me using it!

[limeyrob]

My RR has the Triumph 4 spring and I'm impressed with it, in the past I've always had the BSA 6 spring which I have to say always worked fine but the 4sp is smoother and lighter.  As Neil says, details matter, I get the spring plate running as true as possible and the lever angles just right.  Cable route makes a big difference too.  I let the cable hang free in the widest curves, that gives me a base line for the lever pull, I then try to keep as close to that when route it.