1964/5 A65 Rocket alternator

[Cmcl.1959]

Hello to all,
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice regarding the correct studs that retain the alternator stator.
At present I have 3 the same length and I've been having difficulty getting the necessary air gap all round. Looking at it from the front the rotor doesn't seem to sit level when on the stops.
According to the parts list on Draganfly the part listed is 68-36 x3.not available.
Should one of these studs be longer than the other two?
I had a Triumph TR6 and it had one stud longer than the other two if memory serves although it was a 1972 bike.
When I changed the BSA to 12v I changed the rotor as when checking the one on the bike there was not enough clearance and when I took it of there was evidence of the rotor having damaged the insulation.
There is a set of three on eBay with one longer stud but with a 70- parts number which is for a later model I think. Will these fit?
If anyone can advise me on this I would be most grateful.
Regards
Clarke

[JulianS]

These 2 factory parts service bulletins from December 1964 might give you some information.

[Cmcl.1959]

Hi Julian,
Thanks for the info, I'll get the digital vernier out and check the diameters of the studs.
The stator just seems to sit slightly offset from the face of the rotor and has less clearance at the top about the 1 'o' clock position but has ample clearance at the bottom. There has been good charging and there doesn't appear to be any signs of rubbing but I noticed the difference in gaps when I went in to work on the clutch.
If anyone knows where I can get replacement studs please let me know I'd be very grateful.
Thanks again much appreciated.

Clarke

[V500]

Is the stator "tilted" or still concentric with the rotor?
If it's concentric but off-centre it can usually be persuaded to move enough to equalise the gap all round. 8 Thou gap all round rings a bell as being the optimum.

[Cmcl.1959]

Hi,
Looking at the stator from the front it seems to be sitting slightly tilted to one side as the face of the stator on the left sits closer to the rotor face than on the right where the rotor face seems slightly recessed only by a few millimetres but it is noticeable.
There is ample gap at the bottom where an 8mm feeler gauge will pass no problem and also on both sides up to about the 2 o clock and 10 o clock positions but becomes tighter the closer to the top. The feeler gauge will pass but with a fair bit of drag.
I've tried tapping the stator with a rubber mallet to see if it will move slightly.
I placed a small piece of wood underneath and gently levered it up and got the clearance then secured it in place with nuts and spring washers so it is better. I did consider opening up the holes on the stator by half a millimetre to see if that would give me more room for manoeuvre but decided to try the other ways first.
Perhaps the studs are bent from a previous attempt with the last stator which I changed because it looked like the rotor had wiped some of the insulation.
Anyway I'll try this for now and see if i can find some nos studs online.

Regards
Clarke




 

[rhyatt]

I use a sliver of plastic ice cream tub or yoghurt pot to check the gap.
No magnetic influence then or drag

[Cmcl.1959]

Hi,
That's a very good idea which I'm definitely going to try!

Clarke

[nablats]

was this successful? my crank locks up when I tighten the stator nuts. clearance is poor to none in the area ten to two on a clock face. I have actually ordered a new enfield bullet stator/rotor after advice from a club member