I pulled the alternator stator of the studs to fit a new chain tensioning pad.
It was very tight on the mounting studs.
When replacing it, I could only get about 3-5 thou of clearance at one point between the rotor and stator.
Question is; can I drill out slightly the stator holes to give a tiny bit more play to adjust its position to get an even gap around the rotor?
If so, I would have to remove the stator completely; the cable goes through a grommet inside the casing, where do I disconnect the wiring as not had it off before?
( I am wondering if the rotor is catching the stator a little contributing to some of the noises I can hear).
Cheers for any replies.
Hi Adrian - I'm not an electronics expert but I think if you have at least some clearance all the way round (and through 360 degrees) that'll be OK. If it touches at any point then that's a problem and you'll get some noise I guess. They are tight on the studs. The wiring exits through the back of the case via a tube (the grommet you can see fits over the tube) near the drive sprocket and will just be two bullet connectors - should exit somewhere near the rear engine mount I think.
normally a tight fit to ensure correct gapping and so it does not get in the way of the rotating core.
I would try not to open out the holes, on my A50 there is a location in the casting that also locates it.
one thing you mmight look at is when you pull the core take out the key and if you have any engineers blue to make sure the tapers seal. if not then some lapping compound will help this will keep the two parts a good fit.
of course ,as the coils are set in place, if there is wear on the crank bearing it could be a possibility for noise and running out of the core.
Problems with a tight fitting on the studs can often be due to the studs themselves being bent or not being exactly 90 degrees to the back of the case. Try removing them to see if they are not straight.
John.
I had suspected the studs.
if you havnt got the wires out yet they might well be hardened by the heat and oil, be prepared for a crack in the wire or where it joins the encapsulated coils. the wires are usually joined to the main loom by Lucar bullet connectors unless its like my A50 where they are wire and soldered, which means cutting, not a problem for me as its a custom loom.
as long as the core didnt rub then I would leave the studs alone, there is always the possibility of stripping the threads in the cases.
what was the conclusion of this problem ?
The conclusion was not what I expected or wanted!
Turned out that the timing side bush was that worn the crankshaft was at a very slight tilt causing very little clearance around one part of the rotor. New bush fitted and line reamed and the clearance around the rotor was pretty even and was what it should be.
:) :) :) :)
Hi.
In my experience they are all tight because that gives precise postioning my thoughts if you can get a feeler guage all the way around and the crankshaft it not loose(worn) you aint got a problem there. The wiring== this is entirely personal==Cut the wires and put connectors in the chaincase. Cos they can be very difficult to take out and even worse to get back in. I've got mine on a joining block and fixed to the outside of the stator with a cable tie. Theres a foto of my set up on here somewhere.
The conclusions??? let us know the outcome please.
Mike 8) 8) 8)