I've searched to no avail.
I'm replacing my cable. From the Speedo it would seem the best route is to follow the downtube, trouble is the cable wants to lodge behind the steering stop. I've raised it into a swoop to prevent this and tie wrapped to downtube, under the engine and then along the swinging arm to the drive. A nice route but the head angle is a bit steep from the downtube to the Speedo to me but the most gentle route I could see. Tried running under the tank and then the downtube but too close to exhaust.
Any thoughts ?
on which model ?
Sorry.
1961 C15
look at what some japs do with there speedo cables , they run them thro small wire brackets , im sure one could be adapted or made to suit and mounted off the front tank mount maybe , i have seen speedo cables crushed by the lower steering lock stops before .
Looking at photos online, both routes seem to work. Mine goes under the tank then down between the shockabsorber and mudguard. I think that it might look neater following the downtube then under the engine, but my cable is 2 -3" too short for this.
Quote from: craigc11g on 25 Aug, 2020, 07:01
look at what some japs do with there speedo cables , they run them thro small wire brackets , im sure one could be adapted or made to suit and mounted off the front tank mount maybe , i have seen speedo cables crushed by the lower steering lock stops before .
I made a couple of wire brackets for my front brake cable (M33). The top one is mounted off the front tank mount as you say; keeps it out of the steering. The bottom one stops the cable from rubbing on the mudguard and generally flapping about. I used old tent pegs, bent in the vice around old drill bits. I don't know what they are made of, but they don't seem to rust.
A length of stainless wire/rod would do the job nicely.
Thanks for all the tips. I will try a wire bracket possibly mounted on the fork shroud clamp bolt.
Here are photos of mine. My bike is a 1965 B40F, but I thought I'd post the pic's in case you're interested.
The cable sits in a small (shallow) groove.
Do you reckon this is a normal and appropriate route?
Phil.
On this photo I've pushed the cable sideways out of its little groove so you can see the groove. It pushes out of the groove easily, the groove being shallow. Phil
The cutout in the bottom yoke shown in Phils photos is designed for the cable, it was a modification introduced late 1960 or early 1961 for the C15 B40 and D7 Bantam.
Again, thanks to all especially Phil for taking the time to take the photos and Julian for the data sheet. I have yet to overhaul the front end as all seemed in order but will certainly do the mod. Mine was registered 31st Dec 1960 so may just have missed out.
In the meantime, I followed CLIVEDACKUS' suggestion and made a stainles wire clip
Neat clip. Phil
Thanks Phil.
Had a change of plan today as I wasn't happy with the cable positioning at full lock angles plus there was a lot of slack under the engine with nowhere to lose it.
I took the tank off and ran it along the top tube, round the back of the oil tank then along the swinging arm which seems a much better route with nicer curves. Got to finish finer details as yet but happier with the cabling at the steering head.
I am haveing the same problem with the speedo cable on my 65 ss80, acording to Rupert ratio there are several lengths of cable for different models, mine had a 4`10 1/2 inch (about 5 inches to long) have a spare cable ,cut off 5 inches and re crimped the ferral back on but cant find anything to square off the inner cable, going to try and cut a 1/8 inch slot in a bar and try to crimp it. unles anyone knows of a fixture to do this !
There's a video on YouTube re same thing. Chap milled 2 x 90degree grooves in a couple of blocks then clamped them together.
4'10" was about man 1" too short for mine whichever way I went. Bought 5'1" and seems too long - just. Can't understand why BSA couldn't do it properly. The angle at the Speedo head is both poor and tight.
It takes a lot of force to forge the cable ends square so they will not unravel, a big hammer and a suitable die help.
The special tool is shown below, the threaded bit is hollow, having selected the correct die, put the cable end in it, the threaded bit is screwed down to hold it then the plunger is smartly struck with a lump hammer and in theory you get a squared cable. Grind the end with a radius to go into the drive or instrument.
Never got to use it, now has a new owner.