Hello everyone, It's the moment you've been waiting for: here are details of the route my clutch cable takes (try to contain your excitement.)
The attached photos show that the cable goes from the handlebar lever, across the top of the headlight, then down and across to the lefthand side of the engine, then along to the rear of the engine, and across to the clutch actuating arm.
I guess that a clutch cable should be routed as directly as possible, whilst avoiding any pinchpoints or tight bends, and having enough slack to withstand a full turn of the handlebars.
Mine seems to take a bit of a roundabout route? Esp the first bit where it goes bellowing over the top of the headlamp.
Any comments please? What is the normal route? Photos of the normal route would be much appreciated.
Phil.
The cables for the late A10 models and the B25/B44 look very similar to the B40 item maybe one of these has been fitted by a previous owner?
Having said that the outer length of the 1965 B40 cable is shown as 60 inches in my Clarks Cables catalogue which is longer than both the late A10 and 1968 B25 both shown as 48 inches and both cables being the same Clarks part number 733.
Just found this parts bulletin dated January 1966 showing the B40 cable 40 8612 was superceded by a shorter cable 40 8564 (Clarks show this as 46 inches)
You can even get a new old stock genuine BSA one of these;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-C15-C25-Clutch-Cable-NOS-40-8564/133297717921?hash=item1f0929c2a1:g:D~MAAOSwnxxeDl~t
Fancy that. Thanks very much, Julian. Looking at the pic of the NOS cable, the handlebar end looks like mine, but what's that I see at the clutch end? There is something other than the nipple? Is it an adjuster for some reason? Phil
Oh I see what it is now. So I think I might buy that, unless anybody thinks buying a NOS clutch cable is a bad idea because of its age? Would there be any deterioration? Should I buy a brand new equivalent?
I assume a suitable route from the handlebar lever would be to keep to the left and behind the forks, go along the frame under the tank next to the electrical wires, then drop down vertically to the right of the carb, and then horizontally into the little actuating arm. Please let me know if that's wrong.
Thanks yet again.
Phil
At the gearbox end there is the ferrule to fit in the housing and an elongated nipple. Quite normal fittings.
You would need to lubricate the cable before use, I would flush through with WD40 to get the years of dust and bits out.
The advantage of an old stock item are that being genuine BSA it is the best chance of getting one to the correct dimensions and that the nipples at each end are brass soldered in position while some newly made ones have molded solder nipples. If you needed to move either nipple to adjust cable length you can do it with brass, with molded solder they just melt away when heated.
If you look at this cable one bay you can see the molding mark on the barrel nipple.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-C15-1964-67-B40-1965-66-CLUTCH-CABLE-NEW-40-8612-60-OUTER-LENGTH/223476419749?epid=0&hash=item34083b8ca5:g:DtEAAOSwHIlZ1nTm
Don't know if the attached photos help with the cable routing Phil. I no longer have the bike so I have just marked up some photos with arrows to show where the cable went. I don't know if the route is genuine BSA or not, it just seemed to be a nice neat route and the curves were not excessive. When I first got the bike it had a very long cable that got caught round your left foot if you weren't careful.
Mine was a 1960 bike and the cable went through a hole in the back of the inner timing side case and the operating lever was actually between the inner and outer timing cases. Yours looks a lot more straightforward and much better accessibility but the route should still work ok.
Even though I bought an new clutch cable I found it was too long for the route I was using and I had to shorten both the inner and outer. I got caught out by what Julian S described - blowtorch on the nipple and it disappeared; luckily I had kept the old cable and used the original brass nipple soldered back on. Rupert Ratio describes the technique well.
You can get most types of cable and fittings from https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components
Thanks very much for that, Pete. It looks like the route is about the same as I described I was thinking of. Seeing the photos is very useful.
Btw, very nice looking bike you had there.
Phil
FWIW my clutch cable stays on the LHS, runs under tank and pops out just above the top engine mounting bolt. Tank has a recess to clear the bolt that provides enough space.
So that's what that recess is for?! I wondered why it was there. A while ago on this forum someone spotted on one of my photos that the headsteady bolt looked too long and we thought that might be the reason for the recess. I've since shortened the bolt and turned it round, but I've also routed a new rocker oil feed pipe close to the recess, not realising what it was for. Given that the recess is not only on my bike, obviously it has a purpose, and I guess making room for the clutch cable might be it. Anyway, thanks very much, hoogerbooger, that's really useful. I'll route my new cable like yours if I can, ie assuming it fits when it arrives, and hoping my oil pipe isn't in the way.
Btw, I see your rocker oil pipe is rubber. Probably more practical than my metal one.
Phil
Btw, turning that bolt round might not be ideal - it looks very close to interfering with my decompressor mechanism. But as I don't use it, I guess it doesn't really matter.
Looking again at Pete's cable route, I see his comes out from under the tank further back, which I guess keeps it out of contact with the hot engine.
I'll look at my options when I get the NOS cable.
Thanks everyone.
Phil.
Looks like this hasn't gone too well. I ordered the ebay item via Julian's link, 40-8564. I now realise the Parts Service Bulletin he kindly posted said we should use a 41-8564 (reduced in length) instead of 40-8612. So I guess when I ordered 40-8564 I ordered the wrong item. I should have ordered 41-8564. Obviously I should have checked more closely.
Anyway, I got an email from the seller asking whether it was for a C15 or C25, as they were slightly different. I now realise he was talking about 40-8564. I replied it was for a 1965 B40F, 41-8564 (I now realise that number was not what I ordered in the first place!)
The cable arrived this morning. Not in any BSA-logo packaging, and no part number attached. I took the old cable off the bike, then offered the new one up alongside the old one, expecting the new one to be shorter. It was about 8 inches longer!
So now I'll contact the seller and ask if I can send it back. Sigh...
Phil.
Phil - I thought he was selling 41 8564 - 40 8564 is an exhaust lift cable certainly not a clutch cable. Sorry to confuse.
Nothing to apologise for, Julian. You are always extremely helpful to me.
I don't suppose anybody can tell me how long clutch cable part number 41-8564 should be? Phil
According to Clark's 46 inches outer inner not given. Last entry in the photo.
Thanks Julian.
46" outer cable? The one I've been sent is about 61". I emailed them earlier today but am still waiting to hear back. Phil
I've discussed this with Mark, the seller, who was very helpful. I'm going to take some measurements and get back to him.
Re the BSA service bulletin info about the change to a shorter cable, it seems amazing to me that the difference between the two ( unless I'm mistaken) is about 14".
Phil
Morning all, Having received a cable which was far too long, I sent it back and asked for a shorter one, 46" outer with 2 1/2" inner visible. I was confident that those dimensions would be fine, but this morning, when I tried to fit the shorter one, it wouldn't quite go on. Checking the dimensions, I see there is actually about 2 1/4 inner visible, not 2 1/2" as I asked for. I don't want to be sending it back again. I think I need to shorten the outer by about 1/4" or 3/8" in order to get the nipples engaged. I don't have any soldering gear so would like to shorten the outer without taking a nipple off. Any tips please on the best way to do that without damaging the inner cable? ( it's a NOS cable, wire wound.). I thought about a Dremel cutter, but one slip and the inner would be damaged. Phil
PS Bit of a weather extreme down here in West Devon: no rain for several hours. Motorists are being advised to turn off there windscreen wipers.
Can you slacken the adjuster in the centre of the clutch pressure plate?
Didn't think of that, Julian. Will that do the trick?
By the way, Julian, you'll see that I modified my first entry of this morning, having realised the dimensions were not quite what I asked for (bit annoying.)
Okay I've slackened the adjuster screw at the pressure plate, fitted the cable, and reset the adjuster screw. The only possible issue I see now is that the little actuator arm is not in the recommended position. I believe it's supposed to be inclined slightly outwards, and when the slack on the handlebar lever is taken up by the rider then the lever should be at 12 o' click, ie parallel to the casing joint. Mine was pretty much that but is now at about 12 o'clock (parallel), and when the slack is taken up it's inclined slightly inwards. I guess I have three options: 1. Leave it as it is; 2. Remove the timing side outer case to get at the actuator arm pinion; 3. Shorten the outer clutch cable (which would take me back to my first question this morning.). Any advice please? Phil
Or I guess there is an option 4: buy some soldering kit, take off one of the nipples, shorten the outer cable, and solder the nipple back on again. Obviously the soldering kit will cost money, but once I've got it...
Or an option 5: send it back, get a refund, and start afresh.
I'm fancying option 4 at present.
Any thoughts, please?
Phil.
As mentioned earlier beware when you desolder the existing nipple - make sure it is brass!
I would prefer to shorten the outer cable in situ. You will need to prise off the end cap on the outer (which you will have to do for reuse even if you desolder) You can then proceed carefully with a junior hacksaw. Cut around the outer so that a section will slide back then cut it lengthways and use pliers to open up the coils and pull it off. Best done with the cable held in vice. With care you will not damage the inner. Good luck whichever way you decide
Very glad you said that, Pete A10. Tried very carefully shortening the outer in situ and it worked - no damage to the inner. Ironically shortened it a bit more than I ideally should have, but it will be fine - adjuster at the handlebar is now in about it's middle position, and the actuator arm inclined outwards. Taken the cable off again to oil it. Looking for some plasticene or something similar. Thanks everyone. Phil
Quote from: Phil C on 07 Aug, 2020, 09:15
Morning all, Having received a cable which was far too long, I sent it back and asked for a shorter one, 46" outer with 2 1/2" inner visible. I was confident that those dimensions would be fine, but this morning, when I tried to fit the shorter one, it wouldn't quite go on. Checking the dimensions, I see there is actually about 2 1/4 inner visible, not 2 1/2" as I asked for. I don't want to be sending it back again. I think I need to shorten the outer by about 1/4" or 3/8" in order to get the nipples engaged. I don't have any soldering gear so would like to shorten the outer without taking a nipple off. Any tips please on the best way to do that without damaging the inner cable? ( it's a NOS cable, wire wound.). I thought about a Dremel cutter, but one slip and the inner would be damaged. Phil
PS Bit of a weather extreme down here in West Devon: no rain for several hours. Motorists are being advised to turn off there windscreen wipers.
Just to set the record straight: I was unfairly critical of the seller - the amount of inner cable visible was as requested, ie 2 1/2". The problem was my measuring (didn't realise one of the outer cable ferrules was not in place when measuring) - my fault. Phil
Good morning,
For oiling cables there are some nice little oilers that can have an air pump attached to push the oil through. The plasticine trick does work but I think you need fresh plasticine each time so could work out more expensive in the long run.
Dave.