Good morning everyone, from a very wet and windy West Devon.
The threaded adjuster on the clutch lever on my bike (1965 B40F) appears to be near the end of its adjustment? (please see photo.) You will see that there is almost none of the threaded bit inside the housing.
So I guess I ought to do something about that? Seems to me I could either to buy a new inner and outer, or make up a new inner, a bit shorter than the existing one (regarding how much shorter, nearly the length of the adjuster thread), and keep the old outer. Is that right?
More questions will surely follow!
Phil
is there no adjustment at the clutch / pushrod end left?
Morning,
This could be an indication that the clutch plates are worn. Worth checking when doing other stuff. Also check the plain plates as they wear as well.
Dave.
Quote from: Pete C on 27 Jul, 2020, 10:42
is there no adjustment at the clutch / pushrod end left?
Well, at the clutch end, I undid the locknut, checked the screw was position where it met resistance and was then backed off about 1/4 turn, and retightened the nut. I didn't do anything at the handlebar end before I did this - should I have slackened off the cable?
Btw, the actuating arm, viewed from above, is just past twelve o' clock.
Phil
if I remember right , Rupert says around 1 oclock so somewhere handy.
if you have access to a lathe you could try turning up a short extension piece to go in between the end of the cable and the adjuster.
I think you can actually buy one , I made one onth Triumph as with different bars and risers on I couldnt get the right length cables
Sadly, no lathe.
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 27 Jul, 2020, 10:49
Morning,
This could be an indication that the clutch plates are worn. Worth checking when doing other stuff. Also check the plain plates as they wear as well.
Dave.
What kind of wear?
Hi Phil,
Just general wear. As the friction plates wear they get a thinner. Also, over a long period of use the plain plates do wear and get a bit thinner.
Thinking about bit more you should still be able to adjust to compensate for this with the adjusters in the clutch and the cable.
Dave.
So am I back to the options I suggested in the first post? Phil
When the clutch plates wear the push rod moves towards the lever on the crankcase and the inner of the cable needs to be lengthened to compensate, the opposite to a brake where the cable inner needs to be shortened to compensate for wear.
A new cable may not solve the problem as many owners will witness that these are often a poor fit.
If you disconnect the clutch cable can you adjust the position of the lever on the crankcase and the adjuster on the pressure plate to get a compromise on the cable?
Sometimes the relationship between the worm and crankcase lever may be out and need adjusting - if you have the Rupert Ratio books he deals with this.
RR (vol. 1, p.123) does mention setting the clutch rack and pinion to the 1 o' clock position when the rack is at the bottom of its hole. I'm not sure what the bottom of hole thing is about, and suspect it might entail removing the timing-side outer cover? Phil
The hole is the housing for the rack in the outer timing cover. Yes it does have to come off to check/adjust position.
Is it not possible to check it without removing the outer timing cover, by disconnecting the cable and simply turning the little arm until you feel the rack hit the bottom of its hole? Phil
Dont know. Give it a try and see what you conclude.
I conclude no. But the position of the actuating arm is pretty much as described in my instruction manual, ie "inclined outwards by a small amount" and when the handlebar lever is gripped "approximately parallel with the timing cover joint face." So I'm inclined to think the rack and pinion set-up is probably okay. I'm considering, as one option, buying some inner cable, nipples and soldering kit. And as another option, getting someone local with a lathe to turn up an extension piece, as suggested by chaz. Or, chaz, you think they can be bought somewhere? Any idea where? Thanks everyone for your help so far. Phil
Hi Phil,
If you have a ball of whatever diameter the pushrod is, that will suffice and being hard won't wear. Simply remove the centre screw, pop it in then replace the screw.
Sorry if I'm being dense here "When the clutch plates wear the push rod moves towards the lever on the crankcase and the inner of the cable needs to be lengthened to compensate, the opposite to a brake where the cable inner needs to be shortened to compensate for wear".
I get the bit about the pushrod moving but if the handlebar lever adjuster has been wound all the way out, isn't that to contend with the length of the inner and if you shortened the inner the lever adjuster would have to be screwed back in?
My problem is just that the adjuster is very nearly falling out of the handlebar lever housing. Shortening the inner cable, or extending the outer, would, I guess sort it.
But whilst on the subject of clutch cables, mine appears to take a very long route, and I'm curious to know if that's the normal route ( if there is such a thing.) So tomorrow I'll take a photo or two and post them on here and ask what the normal route is. I picture you all yawning and saying "can't wait." Phil
PS Typing this whilst watching " Bangers and Cash" on telly.
this is what I made up, made to my demensions needed.
https://asvinventions.com/barrel-extenders/
Maybe I am a bit dense but if the adjuster is fully screwed out then, as has already been said, either the clutch plates are worn or the cable has stretched. The answer is to check the clutch plates, and I am afraid this means taking the PC cover off - if worn replace them. If not then either get a new cable or shorten the exiting inner. The ball bearing in the push rod will give some assistance if the plates are worn but it will only be temporary - also the ball bearing needs to go in the middle I.e. Cut the push rod in half, chamfer the ends and replace the push rod with the ball bearing held in the middle of the tube.
If fitted properly the clutch cable should follow the spine of the frame then drop vertically down behind the carburettor, roughly central before turning at right angles to enter the timing side case. The curves needed should be ok for maintaining a smooth operation.
I had the clutch to bits two years ago and have done very few miles since then. Either the plates were okay at that stage or I didn't know any better (which is quite possible.) I remember I got some new friction plates - I think from Draganfly - but when they arrived I realised there was about as much friction material on my old ones as on the new, so I returned them and put the old ones back on.
Re the ball-bearing thing, I'm guessing that as my actuating arm is at roughly the correct angle I shouldn't need it. I guess I'll either shorten the inner cable or get an extension piece made from a bit of brass or stainless bar.
Re cable route, thanks Pete A10. Mine takes nothing like that route. I'll post photo's - hopefully tomorrow - to show you the path mine takes. Maybe I should change that too, so I might end up altering both the inner and outer lengths. Anyway, hopefully I'll get advice on here about it when I post the pictures.
Phil.
Carrot Cycles are good for cable parts should you need anything.
https://www.carrotcycles.co.uk/control-cable-parts-and-accessories.html