the A10 has been on the ramp for a couple of years as with a full time job and running the shop, along with cancer and pain from an bike accident, its been left. when it was on the road there was no signs of smoke, now when I start it the left pot smokes heavy for a couple of minutes, need both garage doors open!! there is also spray from the left silencer, right side is ok. I should say , the bike is a bobber and runs slash cut pipes.
before I have to decide to "get into it" is there a psi figure for the compression that I can check the cylinders for?
my guess its a stuck ring, but Ive had it 11 years and only done 50 miles max, with the Triumph nearing completion and the A50 Bee sat waiting to be stripped its another major rebuild I dont want to start, as one thing leads to another and £500 leads to £2000 .
Did you check/drain the oil in the sump before starting it? its common for these bikes to "wet sump" in otherwords let the oil pass the check valve in the crank cases, work its way past the pump and fill up the sump. Its most likely this is the problem....
Reason why its noticable on the left pipe is BSA placed a baffle plate on the right hand side case which prevents a lot of oil splashing its way up the bore.
To check the pressure first run the bike until up to temperature. While kicking over make sure the choke is off and the throttle wide open. A minimum of about 110-120 psi is needed but it is important they are the same reading on both cylinders. I agree about the wet sumping though, it is a common problem.
John.
thanks both,
as the bike hasnt been used I drain the sump every time I have a go at starting it, usually its either wet sump, flat battery or ethanol blocked carb that stops me using it. I have to go round the circuit, by then its too late to get running so thats it for a few weeks, then the circle starts again!!
as I understand it, the ball and spring are inside the cases so a full strip down is out of the question, so will have to persevere with draining the sump. maybe as its not a regular use bike a tap or valve might get fitted but pipes are short.
next time...whenever.. will try with draining sump again prior to trying to start. Ive rebuilt the carb, again, and the battery is holding charge so heres hoping. hence asking for the psi reading to check if it is rings.
Take the compression reading then put some oil down the spark plug holes and do it again. If the pressure increases a lot then you have ring problems. The oil makes a temporary seal on the bores.
Regarding the wet sumping issue. If you haven't get yourself one of the covers with drain plug, the SRM one is as cheap as any other once you've taken into account the gaskets and gauze. It's also really well made. (I've had the threads pull on the cast type)
Your right about the access on the ball and spring. Unlike the A65 the access is via the inside of the crank case, it's VERY often forgotten about
Good morning,
It is possible to convert the A10 to the A65 design for the ball and spring. With the pump taken off the metal that retains the spring can be very carefully removed to release the ball and spring. I cannot remember off the top of my head the size of drill needed. With care all bits can be caught and the ball is then seated against the pump and an A65 spring is used.
Dave.
Quote from: Allan G on 18 Jun, 2020, 22:33
Regarding the wet sumping issue. If you haven't get yourself one of the covers with drain plug, the SRM one is as cheap as any other once you've taken into account the gaskets and gauze. It's also really well made. (I've had the threads pull on the cast type)
Your right about the access on the ball and spring. Unlike the A65 the access is via the inside of the crank case, it's VERY often forgotten about
Allan, Ive got a drain plug cover but cant fit it as the bike is too low and scrapes on the ramp even with the normal tin plate cover. so, its cover off each time, and I can just about get under to do it.
here we go around again, took the sump plate off and 1/4 pint in there drained, bac together and yes, no bl**dy fuel.. so will have to wait until tomorrow now, by then it will be sumped again. going up unit so will pick up cast sump with drain plug as I think its the left, lower exhaust that rubs.
did a cold comp test and left is 110psi, right only 80 but seems to run ok and its not that one that sprays oil.
had a look at fitting tap or valve but not much room, what do you think about sweeping pipe back then forward and fitting a valve in the lower run ( over top of case.
Hi Chaz,
How long did it take for 1/4 pint to get in to the sump? Not a lot if standing for a while also with only 50 miles on the bores they are not run in so likely to be letting more oil in to the combustion chamber than a run in engine. The lack of compression on the right pot could again be from lack of bedding in and the oil in the left pot partially boosting the compression.
Rather than put in a valve or tap in the oil feed line try to put a few miles on it and consider the modification to use the A65 ball and spring behind the pump.
Dave.
the oil arrived over night, Ive only done around 50 miles in the last 11 years Ive had it, dont know how many miles the barrels have on them. It needs a good spell of runs , but working nights I will upset neighbours kids running it in the evening and back in the morning. then Im at the unit and usually carrying parts here and there hence low miles.
As said before, with the A50 needing stripping, a Suzuki DR400 customers engine to be rebuilt, 4 nightshifts, and hopefully we can get back to France soon to finish decorating, I dont have the time to strip this as well. still, retirement in 5 years it might just sit there.
will look at the A65 mod as long as not too much work..