Hello all, I adore my little Starfire but the front brake really is awful despite the shoes having plenty of meat on them - single lever. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to improve brake efficiency please? Keep well all - Paul
Hi,
Sometimes a new cable helps as they are more rigid. Old one's can be a bit spongey. May sound daft as it's metal but just something I've found.
Have you spun the front wheel and adjusted the shoes so they only just clear?
Didn't they fi ttwin leading shoe to later ones? They're certainly good brakes.
If you have TLS, is is set up properly?
The hubs can go oval and need spinning up on a lathe for about £20 in an engineers workshop. Problem is the wheel will have to be re laced. ££ ?
If oval the hub will need to be skimmed whilst wheel still assembled. lacing can pull the drum out of true.
If skimmed the shoes will probably need to be fitted with ticker linings macined to fit the drum.
The 7 inch singe leading shoe brake is not a very good brake.
Hi Paul,
Do the linings look the same all over or are there shiny and dull patches? This could indicate the out of shape hub as mentioned. Do the linings look particularly shiny as if they may have had oil or grease on them and become glazed? Try cleaning them with a bit of white spirit on a cloth and see what comes off.
When you pull the lever on the brake plate does it move feely and return properly? Take it all apart and clean the moving parts, reassemble with a smear of high melting point grease.
When you put the brake plate back in the hub apply the brake before tightening the centre nut. This helps to make sure the brake is centred. Adjust the arm and cable so that when the brake is applied the cable is at 90 degs. to the arm on the brake plate for max. mechanical advantage.
An indication of ovality is a 'pulsing' being felt at the lever or juddering when braking or if you spin the wheel and apply the brake gently you will hear the 'high spots' touching.
Avoid tight curves in the cable as the internal friction will absorb some of your energy and reduce the braking effect.
I can't think of anything else at the moment.
Dave.
Also consider getting the shoes relined by one of the classic brake specialists, a better lining material can make a lot of difference.
Gentlemen - thank you very much for all your helpful hints. So far I have only replaced the brake cable, and when operated it returns and the brake feels smooth, no pulsing or juddering etc - perhaps too smooth? I have yet to dismantle the brake which and I think I'll live with it until the bike is put away for the winter as I'm only a fair weather rider
A special thanks to you Dave, for taking the trouble to go through the whole scenario
Julian, you mention relining of shoes by a classic brake specialist - is re-lining preferable to new shoes? Do you have a specialist to recommend please?
Very many thanks all and keep well
Paul
The disadvantage or buying a complete shoe/lining is that you have no choice of material and I suspect that the sellers, if asked, would not be able to name the material or tell you its characteristics. Sometimes the lining is just anonymous grey stuff which does not work very well.
A specialist should be able to provide you a choice of material and tell you its characteristics.
I cannot recommend anyone simply because I have not used anyone recently. A number of specialist advertise in the classic motorbike press.
Hi Paul,
I can recommend:
https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/
Sorted my A10 brakes for me, about £50 front and back.
Best wishes...
I've used these guys myself and have been more than happy with their work..
https://custombrakes.co.uk/vintage-and-classic-brakes