Hi Folks,
I seem to have oil continually sitting in the rectangular shaped sump which, obviously, leads to seepage and drips on the floor.
I've checked RR's book and the Haynes and it would appear that the tube on the left should have a non return valve fitted? Ball bearing?
When running, oil is pouring into the tank so no apparent problems there.
There's nothing in the tube, even gentle poking with thin wire reveals no resistance up the tube.
Is there something missing or am I missing something?? :-\
Cheers,
Pete
If pic looks familiar, I nicked it from an old post, thank you.
I also tried probing, and thought the ball bearing must be missing. I then got a spare pump cheap and took it apart. The bearing that forms the valve is in the expanded section at the top of the tube where it enters the main pump body. Plus it is offset to one side.So when you probe I think it just moves sideways without providing any decernable feedback. so you end up thinking it is missing. What you end up pushing against is the pump body/pump gears, not the ball bearing.
Certainly on the dismantled pump if you suck on the tube the ball falls into place and blocks the flow. Then blow and it gets out of the way.
( I didn't try the suck test on my b40 oil pump in situ.....oil gets to the tank fine, so I'm just ignoring the slight drip I get from the sump plate.)
My recollection of last time I changed the oil was that one of the stud holes is open on the inside of the sump ( in your photo the lower of the two) and that was my principle oil weep, seemingly finding enough space to seep down the stud thread. I'm surprised it can creep down the thread in situ, but I'm thinking it did ( although it may have escaped via the gasket and migrated to thatstud end I guess.
Anyone else have problems with that stud/ studs in open case holes ?? & is there a fix ? The stud lock I used didn't seem to help.
[However saying that my attempt to flatten out the sump cover didn't succeed and currently I have a weep from the gasket/plate ]
I usually smear silicon round the threads before screwing them in. Not to much you don't want it in the wrong place.
:) thanks for all the information guys....seems like it's going to be a hit or miss job with the sealing. Am I seeing a trend with the whole engine?? :D
Hi, unless you are very lucky all b40's and c15's tend to wet sump when stood,there is a small pin hole in the inner casing which allows any oil to find its way back into the sump but if it is wet sumping it can not, so it tends to find its way out of the outer casing which should be sealed at least around the bottom half to prevent this and it gives the impression that it is dripping from the sump plate or studs, or even out of the kick start spindle, some people fit a on off tap under the oil tank but I am not a fan of this because it is easy to forget to turn it on, a good quality anti wet sumping valve should do the job and allow any oil that finds its way through the camshaft spindle to find its way into the sump and be scavenged when started, also it may improve cold starting by reduced chance of kick back and making blue smoke.
regards Peter.