Good morning all, We've discussed this before, so I'm sorry if I'm banging on about it rather a lot. The pipe which takes oil to the rockers on my 1965 B40F was a bit gouged here and there. At first I just put some Araldite on the gouges, but recently I thought I'd replace it with a new one. Here is a picture of the old one. The shape you see on the photo is the shape it was when in use. And I'm beginning to see why. Trying to get the new one to fit is a bit of a nightmare. The new pipes which are for sale have either in an upside-down U shape at the rocker end, or, if straight, need to be bent to an upside-down U shape in order to reduce the distance between banjo centres to make it fit (very roughly 3 and 3/8"). So with the T junction being at the top of the upside-down U, the pipe comes vertically off the T-junction, and needs to go across to the other side of the bike to find it's way to the vicinity of the oil tank (where it meets the return pipe just inboard of the tank.) There is not enough room to get a bend in it above the T-junction. It hits the underside of the tank. The valve lifter bracket is also a bit of an obstacle, but the main thing is a lack of room vertically. Turning the U round so the pipe comes off downhill won't work as the spark plug is in the way. A previous owner has obviously made up a different arrangement, as you can see, but I hoped to get a more straightforward, less wiggly, and especially less gouged, pipe in place. Can anybody advise please? I bought my new pipe for a B40 and I'm having problems fitting it - it's beginning to resemble the old one! By the way, I don't have any soldering gear, but wonder if I'm going to have to get some. I have soldered many years ago when I worked in a workshop, but can't even remember if pipes like this should be soft soldered or silver soldered. Soft, hopefully. But it would be good if I didn't have to go down that road - after all I bought a pipe for a B40. Phil.
Amazing how explaining things on forum can focus the mind a bit. Maybe if I had a right way up U, but with the pipe still coming off vertically, so like a W, I'd have enough space. I'll have a look. I have a feeling somebody mentioned that before. If it appears that would work, then I would either need to buy soldering kit to alter the pipe I bought, or buy a new pipe with the section between banjo straight, so I can then bend it by hand to the right shape. Phil.
Hi Phil
Maybe if you heated the T so it pointed downwards, then bend the pipe towards the back and cross over to the right side under the inlet manifold. See the attached. This is an A7 but it may work for you also.
Thanks for this suggestiontion, Jim. Do you mean melt the joint and turn it?
I've only had this hobby for two or three years, so am still acquiring tools gradually. I guess a source of heat ( other than my hot air gun) might be handy.
Phil
Yes, melt the joint and turn the T so it is pointing straight down. A simple propane torch will hopefully do it.
Or, with the T as it is now oriented and if you have the space, put a 90 degree bend in the pipe so it is pointing straight back, then curve it down and cross over under the inlet manifold.
Okay thanks Jim, I might buy a little canister- style propane torch ( not enough space got your second option.) Phil
For, not got (small phone, big fingers, predictive text or something)
Good luck Phil. I look forward to your daily posts and enjoy your continued enthusiasm to sort things out. The forum would less interacitve for sure, not only that having just bought a C15, I'm learning all the time.
Rick
Hi stop worrying about all that metal pipe.
cut the pipe down and buy some good rubber oil pipe and jobs easy , use the rubber frame ties to hold in place and a couple of jubilee clips to secure it
mines been like that for year no problem.
Good point, Paul, well made. I may well include a clear pipe near the rockers. Not easy to find 3/16 ID clear hose which says suitable for oil. If it says it's suitable for fuel then does it follow that it's be suitable for oil? Phil
Not sure
I once did opposite and used oil pipe for petrol did not last long
I just asked for oil pipe in local car shop.
Found some 5mm ID, which I guess is close enough to 3/16, that says suitable for oil. Next stupid question: is unreinforced okay, or would reinforced be better? Phil
Reinforced would be better as it shouldn't collapse though I doubt if plain clear tubing will. Try to keep the length as short as possible and away from any sources of rubbing, no doubt you'd already figured that.
Yep I would say find reinforced not just plain rubber pipe, you can tell as it has lines down it when you look at it cut through.
Yes, thanks, but not easy to find clear, oil- suitable, reinforced. Oh well...
Thanks anyway. I guess I'll either do just metal, if I can get it to fit, or metal stubs and black hose which, as Paul says, is probably easiest.
You will by now have had more than enough of this discussion, so I'll leave it at that and just say thanks again for your advice. Phil
normally just a long that is why they are that long and a short 2" or3" length of reinforce pipe, on the Triumph its long pipe and short piece of clear plastic normal pipe, on the A10 its a short metal pipe and long length of plastic pipe, its been on there 11 years or more.
pipe could be from a car windscreen washer
Sorry Chaz, I don't follow what you're saying.
Phil
sorry Phil confusing.
the pipes normally come with long lengths of either copper or zincplated pipe (recent B40 purchase and the Triumph are like it), the A10 has about 4 inches of pipe soldered to the joint at the rockers. and has a long length of small bore plastic pipe to the t piece.
in both cases the two long pipes drop down to close to the outlet from the engine and are connected by a short length of braided pipe on the A10, the T100 has a short length of small bore clear plastic pipe to join to the t piece on the return pipe.
I have used small bore plastic pipe that we used years ago , if you are old enough you will know cars didnt have windscreen washers as standard, we fitted them after, my thoughts being, if the plastic will survive heat in the engine bay and freezing temps it should be ok for the oil. modern small bore plastic pipe (Chinese quality) may not be as good and the heat from the hot oil may collapse the pipe.
So you're saying a small piece, like a few inches, of ordinary, not reinforced, clear pipe would be okay?