Good morning all, I'm considering buying an 88SA ignition switch (post-'62, to take separate socket, which has short wires with bullet connectors which then connect to the loom at snap connectors.) I'm wondering if it will be easy to fit the switch to the tinware. My tinware, near the oil tank (1965 B40F) has a hole, roughly 3/4" dia, but not very round (see pic.) How does the switch fit on the tinware? Phil.
Someone has enlarged the hole. The original is shaped to take the threaded portion of the switch, including the flattened part so that it does not rotate when switch operated. The hole in the headlamp nacelle for the light switch is the same shape.
So it won't fit as it is?
How does your redundant original ignition switch fit in the hole?
I don't have the complete redundant switch, just the socket, which has been hidden under the seat.
Maybe I could put the correct size and shape hole in a small piece of sheet steel and fix that in place over the too- big hole with a couple of small bolts ( or splash out on some pop rivet pliers.)
That is worth trying.
Looking at the switches online, I can see that the hexagon will locate on the flat(s) in the hole to stop it turning. But what holds the switch in position on the tinware?
Just the nut.
Sounds like you still have your enthi=usiasm and are doing a grand job. I'd be inclined to make an adapting plate as you said and secure with bolts. IMO it would look more period than rivets. If you made the plate out of stainless it would look like an enhancement rather than a repair, again IMO.
I think your best bet Phil is to make a plate with the hole the right size. Rather than bolting or riveting it why not use 2-pack epoxy glue (Araldite - yes I know it sounds like bodgery) to bond the plate to the inside of the valance out of sight - the switch can then be fitted in the correct position with no unsightly fixings. Alternatively make two plates with the outer one smaller than the bezel on the switch so that when you tighten up the large central nut it will clamp either side of the valance. I would still use epoxy even if I went with the two plates. Doing it this way, all the fixings are hidden and the switch will look as it should
Update: I made two plates as Pete suggested. They seem to work fine, except by the time they are in place, plus the shiny base plate/ bezel, the amount of thread sticking out is reduced to the extent that the nut doesn't go on fully. But I think it will be okay. I could leave out the shiny bit I suppose, but the nut would still not go fully on. Anyway I can think that over while I'm waiting for the socket to arrive. Also I can mull over whether to buy a little bit of stainless sheet and make the plates again from that, as the ones I've made are 18swg mild steel (the only sheet I had) and so might rust in time. Phil
But then as I recall drilling stainless using a handheld drill can be difficult, so maybe I'll just stick with the mild steel and give it a bit of paint.
Stainless is a right PITA to drill and can grab. How about a thin bit of aluminium or brass even, both of which could be painted - but then so could the steel. Only difference is the thickness I suppose.
This is probably a stupid question Phil, but does the inner plate sit full inside the recess punched in the valance without any gap between the two. Two pieces of 18swg is only about 2.5mm; plus the valance of say 1mm gives a thickness of 3.5 to 4mm. I believe the threaded section of the switch is about 15mm long so should be plenty if all the pates are tight against each other.
Thanks for this Pete. The threaded spigot on the switch is about 9mm long, not 15mm as you thought. The nut is about 7mm long. There are the two bits I made of 18swg, plus the thickness of the tinware. You can see that even if one of the bits of 18swg fits snugly inside the escutcheon, there's a bit a shortage of spigot length. If the plates don't quite go hard up against the switch (slightly rounded bottom of shoulder) it's a bit worse still. So I finish up with the nut sticking out proud from the threaded spigot. Just have ylto put up with it I guess. Maybe a bit of mild loctite. Phil
I could of course miss out one of the bits I made, or the shiny escutcheon plate, but that would make little if any difference (given that the bit I made fits inside the escutcheon) and so I'd still be short of spigot length. Does this make sense? Phil
I used both the mild steel discs (painted) I'd cut, plus the shiny escutcheon, and a bit of mild loctite on the thread. Although I'd prefer the nut to be able to go on further I guess it will be okay. Bit of a shame only one key is supplied with the switch. Could make one of course, but a bit of a fag. I guess they're all the same, so you can just buy one and it will fit your switch? Thanks again for your help. Phil
Well, that looks absolutely fine.
The spade keys used to be mounted on cardboard sales cards on the wall behind the counter in most British bike shops years ago and were a few pence. I've seen them on eBay so you can still get them. We found the end of an old screwdriver blade would do just as well
Forgot to ask, is everything reinstated now? Do you still have 2 switches?
The redundant socket has been ditched. New, old-style switch (SA88) fitted, as you can see. Surplus switch removed. Wires tidied up, eg some new bullets and connectors and sleeving. All seems okay so far. Thanks for asking, Rick. Phil
Well done a Phil. It was such a challenge initially but step by step you worked through it.