Hello all
Well this might be a bit of a hard one for me to swallow but here goes.
I have recently had my frame swingarm and a few other bits painted, I didn't want to powder coat.
So I stripped the old stuff off and checked it all over myself then got it painted BUT I have started to put it back together and the paint seems too soft, I started to install the wiring loom and a connector has scratched the top of the paint off. In my opinion it was a light touch by the connector. I have other bikes and the paint on those hasn't scratched and doesn't feel like this does. It was supposed to be 2k paint.
It has been painted for around 3 weeks now, surely it should be cured!
Anyone had any experiences they could share please?
My chop has a mixture of powder coat, industrial powder coat, anodise and 2 pack as well as rattle can.
because of the process the powder coat does harden, years ago I used to get frames 2 packed in our paint shop, along with many others bikers in the company, they also used to go in the oven but seemed softer. A white Husky frame ended up with a yellow tinge as it was sat near the top of the oven.
2 pack should dry within a couple of days , maybe longer depending on weather conditions, so a natural process. With environmental issues nowadays certain additions to paint have been removed and 'green' substitutes used. I think the newer ingredients stop the paint hardening as quick.
Hi Chaz
I've been out and used cutting compound on it and it does seem a bit better to the touch. I'm gauging it against another frame I had done and that's painted but harder but also the paint isn't as glossy and probably not as thick a coat. I didn't have to do anything with the other frame so that's my benchmark.
I was thinking of getting it redone but I don't want to have wasted the money so I will use cutting compound on the whole frame and then see how it goes.
Martyn
:) :) :)
Very personal opinion; When its all in little bits.---powder coating works for me--Providing its properly zinc?? primed, which I know a lot of the cheapies aren't,
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Hi Mike
I did think about doing that but I've seen some awful powdercoat and it hasn't got into the little nooks and crannies either. I'm going to see how it goes, it was previously powder coated but again looked awful. Like you say maybe a cheap job.
Martyn
I think the problem occours due to todays environmental world.
two pack is the modern 'wet ' paint job, all the bad things have been taken out of paint (similar to anodizing where chromate has been removed ) , so wot wiki says https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_paint
todays wet paint is water based, makes you wonder if the top coat, lacquer has not been done enough will it all wash off??
my painter of choice is
http://www.bristolmotorcyclepowdercoating.co.uk/
being industrial its a big unit, another friend I know only has a small unit, can do frames but not much bigger, so does he do as good a job for the same money? when you look at my Triumph, there are so many different options offered by RPA flat, gloss, matt, satin, sparkle, leather look etc and all the RAL or BS colours
Thanks all for the replies.
I will give it consideration, not sure I want to powder coat but will see
to be honest with you.. when powder coating first came out I didnt want to know, sticking with original paint. over the years Ive mellowed, there are the same choices of colours and textures if not more. What was put to me was wet paint is softer and chips easier, powder coat is harder and more resistant to chipping mainly from road gravel but also ham fisted mechanics..
I was talking to a workmate recently, he went to the Classic bike show at Shepton Mallett in February or March. He commented on the finish of the old square tankers being so good and free from runs and defects he said would have been there originally, his Tiger Cub cycle parts were painted with hammerite black not powder coated.
I think its a personal preference, admittedly my Triumph chop is bling, sparkle black with leather look oil tank and battery box, the A10 bobber is original factory black frame gloss black tank and polished stainless battery box. Mind you, the A50 Ive posted pictures of is black and Yellow...designs on mudguard and tank which could not be powder coated..
you pays your money and make your choice I suppose.
:) :) :)
A worthwhile point is that your eventual powder coat finish will only be as good as the preclean i.e. "blasting". I know that can vary a lot form place to place. If its not well primed and gets a chip, water is able to enter and move/spread under the powder coat. Zinc primer will stop this. Whilst on the subject there is/was a super zinc primer available for normal paints(there may be limitations)its called ZINGA. May be others out there.
I'm not sure if it is available at our individual level, I used to get mine from a specialist "blaster". Using it was his standard procedure.
Or have it stove enamelled if you can find anywhere to get it done.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
With all small parts like footrests, stands and similar size items. I have been using Halfords own brand of black gloss engine enamel. It takes a while to dry but is spot on, no primer required. Has a pleasant finish as if it has been on there a while. Hardly any runs with this stuff either. I even got a nice finish on a old BSA chain guard. Keep safe.
That's a lot of info there to take in. I've used a cutting compound on the paint and it seems to have taken the edge off the softness. I'm finding it hard to swallow having it stripped and done again as I want to be riding it this summer.
RS Paint sell cellulose, they also sell it in rattle cans. A tin goes a long way and with the current weather you can really layer it on. Dries fairly quickly although with any paints leave it a few days to cure properly. Can also be lacquered in 2k lacquer if you want it super glossy, but it does make it more likely to chip from knocks. The cellulose on its own is very tough.
In the end I had it powder coated, the guy made a great job of it along with a few other parts.
I used Wright's coatings in Saxilby, Lincoln really good bloke and cares about it too. Price was very competitive.
He is now getting my C11G stuff to do!
:) :) :)
That's really good news and thanks for the update. It always good to have a follow up as it may well help someone else struggling with a similar problem.
Mike 8) 8) 8)