The side stand on my 1960 C15 seems a little on the short side to me. The bike leand over considerably - almost to 60 degrees. Is that normal or could a shorter one have been fitted? Seems strange especially as its pivot seems peened and not easily replaceable.
The pivot should be a shouldered bolt with a lock washer. perhaps the wrong stand has been fitted.
Could you post a photo?
They do lean over a lot - more than I am comfortable with. I extended mine by cutting it and welding the ends in some steel tubing.
Hi Julian / Adrian
The stand only has a small pivot so no room for a shoulder bolt. As you say, it does lean over at an uncomfortable angle.
Hopefully picture attached.
Agreed, mine also leaned more than I was comfortable with and carried a block of wood with me to raise it. Eventually I extended the stand a couple of cms. I cut it about 1/4 up from the end, drilled and tapped it to fit a piece of threaded bar with a nut in the middle to lock it, then welded it up. The join is invisible and should be as strong as the original.
I find my centre stand also an issue and much more difficult to use than my heavier A50. I push my front wheel onto a 2" plank then pull it back on the stand which takes much less effort. I've also welded a piece of bar sideways to put my foot on to help roll the bike onto the stand.
Thanks @Greenfield,
Sounds like a good idea. Did it weld easily as it looks like a forging/casting? I know what you mean about the centre stand too. It could certainly do with a side bar to help. I find I almost tend to lift the bike and kick the stand underneath and as you say, I have found a bigger bike to be easier.
@JulianS. Following your suggestion, I checked it out and found as you suggested. Thank you.
Both stands drill, tap and weld easily. I only have a simple diy electric welder which is getting on for 50 years old. The overall length of my side stand is now 28cm to the tip of the foot. Make sure that you don't rotate the foot when you fix it back on, and that it won't interfere with the rear wheel steady bar, frame or chain when in the 'up' position. I suggest that the cut is halfway between the foot and the boss for the spring. Check that there isn't a big dent in the top where the faces meet, allowing the stand to pivot forward too much. This can be reshaped with weld. Mine still leans a bit more than I'd like but I don't have to carry a wood block in my pocket any more.
The side bracket on the centre stand is 8cm long. It needs to be horizontal to the ground when rolling the bike onto the stand. I think that it would be better to be 10cm long to get a better purchase with your foot.
My (1965 B40F) centre stand is ridiculously difficult to get the bike on. We're they like that when new? Presumably. Why? Phil
All I can think of is bad design as the part is original. Its much easier to 'roll' the bike onto the stand on later models, even though they are heavier bikes and are lifted no higher. The shape of the stand where it meets the ground is quite different. In the garage I lift the front wheel of the B40 by pushing forward onto a 2" thick plank, bevelled at the front, which makes it relatively easy to then pull it back onto the centre stand. Out and about I use the side stand, and that's why I lengthened it to make it more usable. There is some wear in the pivot which probably allows it to lean a little more, but I'll only remove this by rebushing it. I'll save that for another day.
Thanks Greenfield. Handy information and pictures on both counts. The main stand is pretty naff as is. Pleased to see they're so easy to mod. I'll certainly have a go and check for the wear you suggested.
Should there be a stop somewhere for the up position so that it doesn't belt the silencer everytime you take it off the stand? Seems a pretty common problem on old Brit bikes for some reason.
Hi.
Just a thought!
Are you running 18" wheels? My C15 is on original 17" rims and seems to stand as I would expect it to.
Thanks for the suggestion. Rim - well front at least is 17". She looks level so assume the rear is the same. I measured my side stand today and it's 250mm. Greenfield's suggestion of 280 is a good place to start I believe.
The standard side stand on my C15 trail bike also allows my bike to lean over too far for comfort, probably due to the 18" wheels. As I don't have welding gear, is there another longer stand that would fit without too much modification?
if you cant access welding kit google ebay "clamp on side stand" , you could take off your original one and clamp a stand alone one on the frame.
Thanks for the heads up.
I think I might cut the stand as suggested, marking it first for realignment, make a cotton reel type extension threaded at each end, do it up as tight as possible using stud lock also. Then i'd blend it in and paint. May add a tack weld also to secure.
Hi again
Re the centre stand knocking on the exhaust, there should be two flats above the pivots which stop the stand rocking too forward or backwards. These develop a depression through use allowing the stand to travel too far. Build up with a spot of weld in the worn area and grind to the correct height.
When not in use, my centre stand stops going further up because the return spring rests on the 'U' shaped cross member between the rear legs of the bottom frame.
With the side stand, if you cut and thread, you'll be able to adjust to a reasonable length before welding. If you don't have a welder, once correctly adjusted, take the stand to your local body repair shop and it'll only take 5 minutes.
Thanks for the info re the stand. I'll check it out
Hi again.
I just had a gander at my Rupert Ratio bible and it states for side stands:
8 1/4" from pivot centre to foot centre, used on all B25, B44, TR25w and B40 military from 67 to 69.
9 1/2" long over these distances fitted to C15 and B40 road models for all years and 63 onwards duplex framed competition models.
I hope this may help with the dimensions of your extended version.
Hi Marshall,
Thanks for those intersting facts. It would appear mine is spot on but why a manufacturer would chooses such an acute angle is peculiar. My bike won't tick over on it.
Bikes fitted with Monobloc carbs tend not to tick over well on the side stand as the fuel fulls away from the outlet causing a weak mixture. Try it next time you are on the bike lean it one way then the other and hear the difference in engine revs.
That makes sense and also the reason for a concentric float bowl. I'll have to be careful when trying to get my knee down on a left hander ;)