BSA Owners' Club Workshop Discussions

The BSA Workshop => Singles => Topic started by: Phil C on 04 Oct, 2019, 13:20

Title: Clevis pins
Post by: Phil C on 04 Oct, 2019, 13:20
Morning all,

Me again. I'm ordering a new front brake cable for my 1965 B40F. The one on my bike at the moment, at the bottom end, has a clevis fork, a clevis pin which goes through it, and a small split pin which goes through that.

Draganfly's drawing shows a threaded pin and nut, rather than a split-pin arrangement.

I guess it doesn't matter which system? In one system, the split pin looks a bit flimsy, esp if it were to rust, or if it were bent too far. In the other system, I guess a nut could come loose (but presumably there is a washer there to prevent that.)

Which is the better way?    Phil.
Title: Re: Clevis pins
Post by: JulianS on 04 Oct, 2019, 14:38
A matter of personal preference.

The cable bottom end fork for the screw and nut has a thread so the thin nut is just a lock nut. A clevis wont fit unless you remove the thread. The screw should have a plain section where is bears on the brake lever some pattern ones are threaded all the way.

A fork for clevis will be plain no thread so the clevis fits straight through.

Split pins are available in stainless steel
Title: Re: Clevis pins
Post by: Greenfield on 16 Oct, 2019, 08:23
My 1963 B40 has a threaded fork with a 1/4" BSC screw and nut, but the spares catalogue shows a clevis pin. I've no idea why they should go to the extra trouble with threaded parts when a clevis pin would have been simpler and cheaper. I'd have thought the smooth surface of a pin rotating in the hole in the brake cam lever would have been better long term.
Fit whatever is convenient. We're not doing the mileage to cause problems.
Title: Re: Clevis pins
Post by: johnan on 17 Oct, 2019, 07:33
For what it's worth, 40 odd years ago I put together a kit car and in the process of rushing to get it finished, tested and on the road, I forgot I had put a small bolt and nut through the forked end of the handbrake cable where it is fitted to the lever coming out of the backplate, when the donor car had a pin and split pin arrangement.
Much shaking of head by MOT man, must be a split pin or one of those "p" shaped clips going through the pin he said, nuts come loose...a no, no for brakes.
He let me fix it, nice man , but I learned my lesson.
I am surprised the parts catalogue shows a nut and bolt, but that must have been acceptable in those days.
Title: Re: Clevis pins
Post by: JulianS on 17 Oct, 2019, 10:23
There are 2 distinct forms of forks on the end of brake cables.

One which takes a screw and lock nut - one side is drill 1/4 inch clearance and the other is threaded 1/4 x 26 tpi cycle. The screw has a plain protion, it screws into the threaded end so that the plain part bears on the brake lever hole, then the nut is added as a lock nut. A plain clevis will not go through unless you drill out the threads. This one is not designed for a clevis.

The second is drilled 1/4 inch clearance right through so a clevis will fit. This one is not designed for a screw and nut.