Hi all, just assembled and fitted front forks, there's a slight difference in length, about 10 mm, am I right in thinking this will be ok when the front wheel is fitted and is probably due to spring tension, the distance from bottom of fork leg to top of chrome bearing housing is the same on both legs, as always will be grateful for any advice. Thanks Dave.
If you're seeing that difference when both forks are fully extended then I think it's a bit odd as spring tension - or compression - shouldn't make any difference.
If you're sure that the sliders and stanchions are identical then the only thing I can think is that maybe one of the forks isn't fully pulled home into the top yoke - but a 10mm difference sounds quite a lot for that to be the explanation.
--Bernie
Checked the forks at the top and there both about 5mil down, ill take them out today and check I haven't done something stupid.
:) :)
I had this problem when I put the wheel in it was leaning over. I gave it a flat handed clout against the tyre there was a sharp click and it went were it should be. Only thing that I could figure was lack of lubrication and the end of travel. Its ok now.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Hi Mike, stripped them down yesterday,circlip had come out on one, the basket contained 3 sliding tubes one of which was quit rusty the other had no groove for the circlip
so I had one machined in,now I'm not quite sure the groove is deep enough, ill assemble again today and give it a good testing before fitting the oil seal holder.
Sorted groove was deep enough but a tad to low, ground a slight chamfer to the edge of the top Bush and the circlip sits in nicely now, having gathered together a few bits this is the first bit of assembly on to the frame so have to say getting a bit excited. If I can work out how to do it ill post a photo.
Ouch!!!!!,I've read on here a few times about the difficulties removing and fitting swinging arm bushes so patiently filed away for hours and removed the old ones then with the aid of a length of m10 a bunch of washers and a couple of nuts drew in the first,all going well, repeated procedure for the second bush, with about 5mm to go it just will not budge, an extra bit of oomph on the spanner an ping, m10 sheared and shot a cross the garage like a Bullitt, have a bash with some m12 tomorrow but I'm thinking......maybe cut off the last 5mm, any thoughts? Cheers.
Hi,
Is it the outer sleeve or the inner sleeve that is protruding?
Regards..
:) :)
Personnaly wouldn't cut it except as last resort. I would try taking it out again, ensuring that the tube is 100% clean, then try again. I'll bet there is someone with a press living close to you. then its a 5 minute job.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Hi,
The bushes must protrude equally do not cut.
The outer sleeves must touch centrally in the swinging arm leaving the inner sleeves protruding equally each side a few mm. When the bike is complete sit on it and tighten the swinging arm spindle nut to securely trap the inner sleeve in a loaded position ensure some clearance to allow the arm to 'swing'.
Best wishes...
Morning gentlemen, it's the outer Bush that is still 5mm short of being flush with the swinging arm tube, the other side, the first one I put in, the outer Bush is flush and the inner a mil or so protruding which I think is right, I'll have a bash with the m12 and see what happens, I don't really want to take it out again as I can't see a way to remove it without damaging it,thanks for the help again,Dave.
:) :)
I trust that you don't have to re-do it, However if you do you might try this: - Very slightly chamfer the "leading edge" then put it in the freezer overnight. The cold will have a very marginal shrink effect--just enough to make the difference. Actually its a method that I use for any bits that are an interference fit.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Thanks Mike, I did warm the s/arm with a hair drier (so not to damage t h e finnish) before inserting the bush.
Evening all, bushes in, 12 mm rod and gentle tap under pressure, but have to say wouldn't want to fit them for a living,anyway now have all the bits for the rear brake linkage cleaned up and wondering about some sort of plating, as there moving parts chrome wouldn't be suitable so maybe something like Zink, any advice/ ideas welcome as always, those that have working machines enjoy the weekend.Dave.
Hi,
I use stainless, polish, fit and forget.
Best wishes...
Hi Bess, May be a bit pricey to have all these small bits made in stainless, I don't have the facilities to manufacture myself which is why I thought about plating but I know where your coming from.Dave.
Hi Mitchell,
I had a number of items lost during plating and its cost is spiraling.
There are a lot of people in sheds making up various stainless alternatives at the moment, maybe worth a search to compare costs.
Best wishes and hope all goes well....
Quote from: MITCHELL on 13 Sep, 2019, 19:04
Evening all, bushes in, 12 mm rod and gentle tap under pressure, but have to say wouldn't want to fit them for a living,anyway now have all the bits for the rear brake linkage cleaned up and wondering about some sort of plating, as there moving parts chrome wouldn't be suitable so maybe something like Zink, any advice/ ideas welcome as always, those that have working machines enjoy the weekend.Dave.
Chrome plating has been outlawed now as environmentally unfriendly and carsonogenic, I used to use the works alochrom plating and ended up with neck and thyroid cancer! our parts are now anadol plated which is non chrome , even the di-chromate stain used has changed. Zinc is a poor substitute for the decorative chrome we used to have but all thats available now. prefer to have cadmium plated (the gold colour) , as for stainless looks good colour stays but has a low shear factor lower than mild steel so beware when using on shear applications ie, when forces are acting on a 90degree direction to the material. oh, the pains of being an inspector in an engineering company!!
I use Nickel plating for everything that's likely to get splashed with road wash (salt lingers for ages). Other items I go for zinc and clear passivate. You need to clean all the paint and rust off first, easily done with a rotary wire brush. A lot cheaper than replacing everything with stainless, but each to their own as they say.
Chris
:) :)
Yep each to their own. I still have mine chromed but when I spoke to chromers about the illegality they said "its nickel really but we still call it chrome". So that's the way I still go.
Love your day.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Evening all, thanks for the input, had some plating done a while back,handle bars and a few other bits, I was under the impression they were chromed but maybe it was nickel, I'll call in there next week and see what service they offer, meanwhile have some rear springs to clean up.Thanks again,Dave.
for reference, a useful read, apparently China and India are still chrome plating but they dont worry much about workers health.
http://electroless-nickel-plating.co.uk/chrome-plating/
Sounds nasty stuff, I feel it would be irresponsible of me to ask anyone to put themselves at such a high risk,I'm surprised it's not banned worldwide,so looks like nickel plating is favourite, will have to see what the Finnish is like as I have the levers ect to get plated as well.Thanks for the link.
we had a military contract for radio boxes that fit into back packs. made out of aluminium. to prevent corrosion they had to be plated. Alochrom is normally the choice but we had to use mildef anadol (the chrom missing is chromium).
reason being is....
if a soldier had one on his back and was shot, and bullet passed through the box the military/government were not concerned with the bullet killing said soldier, the worry was, the soldier dying of chrome poisoning to which they would be held to account not the enemy, therefore liable for his death.
our brake units were Anodized and stained with DiChromate, the Chinese, our big customer complained because we knew chromate was being phased out BUT the Chinese liked the colour and did not want different colours on the same wheel bogies. SO we had to consult with all our platers to come up with a solution that protected and gave the right matching colour. There was a 2 year buffer to allow stocks to end and new to come in, unfortunately, we still managed to cut it to the last minute before we arrived at the right solution.
Should have just put them in a bullet proof pack,on a serious note, not much changes when you read some of the reports on the rubbish they issue the forces with in recent conflicts.