I am in the process of trying to refurbish a 1960 C15 which is in generally good condition, but a previous owner obviously had no idea how to sympathetically treat the kickstart system and it is showing signs of heavy footedness.
The pawl occasionally slips and misses but I will get round to changing that and also the kickstart pinion, as the flat on the cotter bearing surface is looking damaged.
At the moment I have put an "oversize" cotter pin into it, tapped it in with a light hammer and put the retaining nut on, without overtightening. Unfortunately, after about 10 or so non-violent kickstart operations I can feel the kickstart lever is moving on the spindle, so the cotter must have loosened.
I could just keep tightening the nut but eventually it will just keep pulling itself through the cotter pin hole, probably.
I will be changing the pinion and pawl when I get the nerve to delve into the inner recesses of the unit , but is there any way to stop the cotter pin loosening in the meantime...or do "they all do that", as any garage would say!
I rebuilt a C15 in the 1970s and the kickstart behaved without issue, but I think it was probably one of the later stronger ones.
I would be grateful for any words of wisdom from the experts out there!
unfortunately the answer is no.
without replacing parts involved the only answer is the one I have come across many times, normally on 1980's motocross bikes....
you guessed it... weld the kick start shaft onto the pinion shaft ::)
The cotter could be too soft and the KS shaft digging into it.
Some cotters on offer are poor quality - too soft - solution could be to source a better quality one.
It does seem the cotters are too soft so I will try to source harder ones if I can.
Such a small thing to be such a nuisance!
Thanks for bothering to reply folks.
:) :)
You might consider drilling it through kick start and pinion and using a roll pin, which will "drift "out should you need to. Not the easiest job but should be satisfactory.
OR a heavy grubscrew.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Thanks Mike, that's another possibility if harder cotters aren't the answer.
As you say not easy to execute, but should work once done.
hi johnan I bought a standard size stainless cotter from Draganfly it helped me but I don't know if they do over size, when you say it's working loose do you mean the nut if so could you drill through nut and cotter and put locking wire through just a thought. Roy
not tried one but draganfly list special cotter 02-2579A says for worn kickstarts
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/component/hikashop/product/4080-
Some cotter pins I've bought have the flat machined too far down them which means they go through the hole before you start!
I tried the Draganfly cotter for worn kickstarts but it loosened too, they don't seem to do an oversized stainless steel or hardened one.
I have found someone who does sell them but I don't hold out much hope it will work long term.
Do the kickstart levers wear as well as the slot on the pinion, or is it enough to replace the pinion and cotter pin when doing a proper strip down fix?
I doubt if there are many kickstart levers out there to buy!
http://www.hawkshawmotorcycles.com/bsa1.html have levers listed
http://www.ripemotorcycles.co.uk/RIPE%20unit.htm ditto
I suppose it depends on which part is worn or how many parts are worn. years ago I did try cutting a drink can up and making a sleeve to shim but if its a combination of parts worn then not much can be done unless you can find an engineer to weld up parts and then re machine.
it is a high impact item, if the bike is set up right it should start easy but problem occurs when people keep banging away trying to start each time.
Thanks very much for the links Chaz, I will do a bit of chasing up to see what's available.
Roy, the nut comes loose but I think it is because the cotter itself has worked itself loose and if I keep tightening it, it just pulls the cotter through the hole. Failure! Thanks for the idea though!
:) :)
Something that I did many years ago on a spinning pulley wheel. Old very heavy machine meant a very time consuming(and shekels) strip to effect proper cure.
Position it with your cotter pin the drill two holes opposite each inwards from the end at the join in the two items. Tap the holes to suit and put in grub screws. If your bits are shot anyway it is a no loss situation They will act as keys.
Mike 8) 8) 8)