B31 Plunger Front Hub 7" brake
Hi Guys
I think I'm losing the plot here so a bit of advice would be most welcome.......
Putting the hub back together as per the worksheet (212a) and all is fine and dandy until I tighten the spindle nuts then the spindle locks solid....I'm sure I'm missing simple....any thoughts ????
:'( :'(
My B31 plunger and all others that I have seen use the same spindle assembly as per the 212a sheet. What spindle nuts are you referring to? The only one is the pinch bolt on the n/s fork leg bottom. Once you have screwed in the spindle to a stop (do not over-tighten), nip up the pinch bolt. Are you locating the brake plate in the o/s fork leg correctly (round button on brake plate into a similar recess in o/s fork leg)?
Just adding to my reply..... I think you must be referring to the hollow bearing sleeve that the spindle passes through. Have you removed and/or renewed the bearings?
Hi Malcome
Thanks for the reply..
just to clarify... bearings out- so the hub could be blasted and powder coated- replaced... nut on either end of the bearing sleeve- one of which secures the brake plate- when these are tightened the bearing sleeve and brake plate are solid.
Thinking about it - clearly tightening the nuts is forcing the brake plate against the bearing housing rather than against the stepped bush that fits into the bearing- so you would think there should be another spacer to keep the brake plate away from the bearing housing...but there isnt .....no bits left over and I've been careful not to loose any....any thoughts ???
Are all the parts in the correct order?
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/bsa/bsa/a710--b3133--c101112--m202133/category/915-3-front-wheel-7-a-b-m-group
There is a part 65 5891 described as "front hub bearing distance piece" which goes between the brake plate and bearing.
Hi Guys
Yes.. its all as per the diagram on Draganfly.. the distance piece 65-5891 is in position and the right way round- the back of the brake plate should -I assume- tighten down onto this but obviously it doesn't - when the nut is done up it must be tight against the bearing casing instead- which suggests that the bearing and hence the distance piece are in the wrong place. I've knocked the bearings and spindle out again and both are tight against the inner shoulders on the spindle, .... its all a bit mysterious but I'm sure its just something simple.....
Just out of diagnostic interest.... can you replace the brake plate with a washer or similar of about the same thickness and tighten up the nuts. Does the hollow bearing carrier lock up now without the brake plate in place? Yes - must be the bearing set up, in which case check bearings are seating fully in the hub.... No - must be brake plate location in relation to the drum, in which case suggests the o/s bearing abutment washer is missing. Finally tighten the nuts very gradually and see if you can locate, what is locking against what.
Just had a further thought, has the brake plate been powder coated as well? Sometimes too much coating could lock the plate to the drum?
Thanks Malcome.. I'll have a look tomorrow- the brake plate has been coated but it is free in the drum until the nut is tightened
cheers
A-Ha !!... I knew it was something simple... for future reference...
Although the LHS bearing is fitted tight against the shoulder of the bearing sleeve when you first tap the sleeve through the hub, as its pushed into the RHS bearing the LHS bearing is forced away from the shoulder back up the sleeve and the sleeve isn't as far through the hub as it should be. When the brake plate is tightened down its "fouling" the hub- so the simple solution is when the sleeve is up tight against the inside of the RHS bearing the LHS bearing needs to be tapped back
Apologies if I haven't explained that very well but as I said..the simplest things do tend to confuse.
Thanks for your help guys.
ps THe crank is fine Andy- thanks
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