Just started stripping and rebuilding either side of my 1970 A50 Royal Star. 3-spring clutch removed and rebuilt - roller bearings, clutch friction plates, kept the steel plates. Filed the tangs on all plates to ease movement in the chainwheel. Removed the lips in the chainwheel. Fitted new springs. New pushrod is slightly longer than the one I took out.
Checked out the timing side. Very scored inner-cover surfaces in and around kickstarter shaft. A previous owner had somehow graunched a spring onto a Triumph kickstarter plate instead of a BSA plate. See pics.
The kickstarter plates are very similar but, take note, the flats on the Triumph part are at 90 degrees to the BSA plate.
Next job(s), apart from cosmetic items like siamese pipes, ball-end levers etc, is to understand why the TLS brake stub is loose in the fork leg. Ther's a mismatch somewhere and I'm not sure if its the hub or the forks. Please let me know if you've come across this before.
Rats, just found that the plugs are different both in part number and overall length! My searches indicate that NGK B8ES will do the trick. Must remember to buy shares in Halfords.
Hi Splodger,
I'll send this one to the Bodgefinder General for publication in The Star. Could you send me jpegs of the pictures to editor@bsaownersclub.co.uk
Regarding your brake/fork leg problem with the anchor stub being loose in the TLS brake plate, I'm afraid they all do that sir. Easy fix is to cut a small piece of thin steel or brass and put a 90 degree bend on it and slide it in the gap, (Thickness to suit) to bend is to stop it dropping through. it cant go anywhere and stops the judder and clunking.
Hope this helps
Chris
Thanks for the tip about shimming the brakeplate to the forkleg, it shall be done. It would be interesting, in today's tightened MoT tests, to see if a tester would fail that 'fix'. Just a thought!
Have sent jpegs.