Hi Guys
I have come to the point in my BSA B31 Rigid frame model, where I think I should introduce a centre stand, however I can't seem to find one, my model is the one which has the narrowed down gearbox plates 2" between them, the stand fits into this 2" space, Draganfly have non, all those on ebay are swing arm or C11, C12. can anyone supply details, or a picture to help me if i spot something.
Thanks
When you find a centrestand, I hope you've got gym membership to build up your muscles so that you can haul the bike up onto it! I fitted a lifting handle from Hitchcocks where the mudguard stays fit to the lower frame, and I can just manage it now.
I have a rear rack on my '48 B33 rigid which helps with heaving it onto the main stand. Still not easy!
I'm afraid this is the only picture I could find that shows anything of my mainstand. B33 1948 with the narrow plates for 46-48 gearbox.
(https://i.ibb.co/371TWY8/main-stand.jpg)
Pete C, do you happen to have a photo of how your luggage rack fits to the rear mudguard? I've got one but the lugs don't match up with the mudguard bolts. I can make a couple of brackets to fit, but I'm interested to see how it should be done! Thanks, Mark.
According to my 1946 Parts Catalogue, the centre stand 29-4860 fits the C10-C11 Girder Fork Models and the C10-C11 Telescopic Fork Models of that Year. Keith L
Hi Mark
are these pics any use?
I got the rack along with the bikeand have no idea if it is original, replica, one-of or whatever. Just that it fits without me having had to drill any holes.
Then again, the holes that were there may have been added at anytime in the last 70 years. ;D
Good luck!
(https://i.ibb.co/QJsT994/B33-carrier-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vcm3hBL/B33-carrier-2.jpg)
Thanks Pete - very helpful. Regards, Mark.
Quote from: Mark B on 24 Jan, 2019, 13:04
When you find a centrestand, I hope you've got gym membership to build up your muscles so that you can haul the bike up onto it! I fitted a lifting handle from Hitchcocks where the mudguard stays fit to the lower frame, and I can just manage it now.
Agree with you my 1960 B33 is hard to get onto centre stand even with handle. I try and get as close as possible to bike before lifting. Maybe I should get a paddock stand for home use?
RichardAB
I have a 1958 B33 and found it back-breaking to get it on its centre stand. I fitted a lifting handle, and also a later type of centre stand with a sticky-out bit that you put your weight on and it acts as a lever; it is now very easy to get on the stand.
Only thing is that the stands with the sticky-out bit for singles are not available and so had to use a twins type which comes out a bit more for the LHS silencer, but not too bad, and well worth fitting in my opinion.
Quote from: RICHARD MILLS on 27 May, 2019, 14:18
RichardAB
I have a 1958 B33 and found it back-breaking to get it on its centre stand. I fitted a lifting handle, and also a later type of centre stand with a sticky-out bit that you put your weight on and it acts as a lever; it is now very easy to get on the stand.
Only thing is that the stands with the sticky-out bit for singles are not available and so had to use a twins type which comes out a bit more for the LHS silencer, but not too bad, and well worth fitting in my opinion.
That's a great idea Richard do you have part number for that twins type stand please? Thank you
Part number 42-4761. Look on Draganfly's site for a picture (they show out of stock, but there are several other suppliers). Needs a rubber for the extension, and you may or may not need other parts such as spacer tube etc. - see Draganfly's diagram. At some point in time the return spring frame attachment changed sides and I had to have a hook made and tapped into the boss on the other side of the stand. Nothing is simple, is it?!
Anyway, stand is heavier than standard, and springs do not seem to hold stands up very firmly without clanking when going over bumps.
I therefore removed the return spring and fitted a spring which winds around the pivot pin/tube. This is an AJS/Matchless part number 014627, and just required a minor bend and hacksaw cut and it works perfectly (although a little blood letting might also be involved).
I suspect that I may have given you too much information and put you off changing the stand at all, but it really was well worth the effort!
Quote from: RICHARD MILLS on 28 May, 2019, 17:42
Part number 42-4761. Look on Draganfly's site for a picture (they show out of stock, but there are several other suppliers). Needs a rubber for the extension, and you may or may not need other parts such as spacer tube etc. - see Draganfly's diagram. At some point in time the return spring frame attachment changed sides and I had to have a hook made and tapped into the boss on the other side of the stand. Nothing is simple, is it?!
Anyway, stand is heavier than standard, and springs do not seem to hold stands up very firmly without clanking when going over bumps.
I therefore removed the return spring and fitted a spring which winds around the pivot pin/tube. This is an AJS/Matchless part number 014627, and just required a minor bend and hacksaw cut and it works perfectly (although a little blood letting might also be involved).
I suspect that I may have given you too much information and put you off changing the stand at all, but it really was well worth the effort!
Thank you Richard I will start to investigate upon return from holiday. Off to my first ever TT tomorrow
Generally there appears to be a be a "knack" to such operations .....
When I returned to motorcycling after a 40+ year interval with an AJS heavyweight single I found it almost impossible to get it on to the centre stand using the technique I'd used previously of; left hand on handlbar, right hand under seat right foot holding the stand to the floor. My difficulties were not helped by the fact that, if I build myself up I can attain a maximum height of, say, 5' 2". On one particular occasion it could of ended in disaster as the left twist grip came off in my hand after a particularly vigourous tug. Fortunately I was able to stop the bike falling over - just!
I found on the Jampot forum a reference adopted by the work's riders for this task which is; Left hand under front of the seat, right hand on the rear mudguard handle (I suppose they put it there for a reason!) and LEFT foot holding the stand down. In this way it's more of a lifting rather than dragging backwards motion and, I have to say, it works a treat even for "Old Shorty".
Perhaps an adaption of this technique to suit the grip postions and handles of the particular machine would assist?
HTH.
Alan
My B31 centre stand is safely wrapped and stored, I use a side stand. I have never seen the attraction of struggling hauling a bike onto a centre stand that serves no useful purpose
Regarding Alan's method of hauling onto the centre stand, that was the only way I could get my Matchless G3 onto the stand until I fitted an easy-lift one last year. I also used that technique on the 1958 B33, but it was still awful and much worse than the G3 ever was.
Andy, I like to run the engine with the bike on the centre stand before a ride, and watch the oil return to the tank for a while, waiting to make sure that it is not just returning 'wet-sumped' oil but is returning oil which has been freshly pumped into the engine; don't fancy doing this while it is on the side stand, or while holding/sitting on the machine. Also, when parking up somewhere, can put my helmet on a level seat while locking up etc.!
I really never understood this obsession of gazing into the oil tank. Ok first start after a rebuild but every start up? You are just looking for a problem that may have occurred between the engine being stopped and then re started. An oil pump problem is more likely to occur when riding.
Wet sumping should not occur on most BSAs, there is a ball and spring to stop it occurring, My B31 oil tank level dropped about 12mm over the winter months, no problem, I just fired it up and rode it, the pump will clear the excess in a few seconds.
My Aprilia is also a dry sump engine with no check valve, overnight the oil will drain from the tank until the level equalises between tank and crankcase, fire it up and by the time I'm in top gear in all the oil is back in the tank