Hi everyone, a few months back My Dad gave my Son a 1932 W32-6 SV that he purchased from a farm clearance auction back in the 80s.
The bike has just been sitting in My Dad's garage until we picked it up. It looks like it has had a hard life and is in a fairly bad way, but we are hoping to get it back on the road someday soon.
The magneto was just sitting loose on the engine and doesn't seem to be the original, with the help of a local parts expert to identify the magneto it looks like it is a M01 AC52.
The magneto had four locating pegs where the crankcase has three locating holes, we were able to gently remove the 4th peg & sit the magneto in position, but the magneto shaft seems to be too long and pokes into the timing case to far. Also the magneto doesn't seem to line up perfectly with the hole for the shaft the the timing case area.
I suppose we could make up an adaptor plate to position the M01 into the correct position, but we will need to change the magnetos direction of operation to clockwise from anticlockwise.
We were just wondering if anyone has been down a similar path before? or Should we just pull the pin on the M01 and try and track down the original type, which I think is a MS1 ?
Any advise to help get this lovely old machine working again would be greatly welcome.
Cheers,
Patrick.
Hi Patrick
I also have a 1932 W32-6. The original BSA replacentment Parts manual for 1932 state that our bikes would have either a:
Lucas Magneto KM1
or
Lucas Magdyno MS1 (see picture below)
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37377020_1842842032691425_3231454168543657984_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=e826c0ae4b8cf6b957c408e1f7e6d928&oe=5BCB896B)
I've recently had my magdyno rebuilt and changed from a three brush to a two brush. (see picture below)
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22852055_1728572607451702_318953307820464008_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=d3f4ff744825efb1c9b64e2541186a5d&oe=5BDCA5F7)
I live in Cradley Heath just outside Birmingham.
Tony Cooper has my old two brush. He rebuilds old bike magnetos and only lives two miles from me. here are his details.
T.C. MOTOR CYCLES – Tony Cooper, 110 Olive Lane, Halesowen, West Midlands, B62 8LT. Tel: 0121 559 2405 www.totalbikebits.com/product_locator/dealerdetails.php?id=210
Hope this helps
Jon
Hi Jon,
Thanks for the reply.
Wow, Your bike looks in great condition (specially compared to ours!) & thanks for the information.
I'd say your on a winner having someone like Tony Cooper within riding distance.
We are down here in Australia, which could explain the condition of our bike, it could have been used to round up the sheep in the outback for some of its life!
We've made a bit of progress fitting the M01 AC52 magneto onto the engine. After looking closer we found one of the locating pegs was not exactly round.
Looks like its had a hard life too, after a bit of filing to make it back to round to our surprise it slipped in nicely, and it appears the shaft isn't to long and drive gear fits after all.
We are now concentrating on getting the gearbox working, it was stuck in a gear and wouldn't select any others, was pretty ugly inside but we've freed it up ok, main output bearing might need changing.
From it's previous life its missing a pile on nuts and bolts, mainly in the front suspension. We also discovered a fracture in the frame rib that supports the engine.
Also no exhaust at all, will need to make one up.
If You had any other advise on these bikes that would be great, because we've had the engine back to nuts and bolts we'll need to set the valve & electrical timing.
Lots of work but all good fun & a great experience for our Son.
Cheers,
Patrick
Hi Patrick
Here are a few bits of information from the BSA Motor Cycle Instruction Book, for the 1932 4.99 h.p. S.V. W32-6:
Tappet clearance (ins)
Inlet = .004
Exhaust = .006
Ignition Setting = Piston at T.D.C. Ignition Fully retarded. Contact Breaker point open .003 inch.
Standard Jet = 140
Needle Position = 1
A previous owner restored my bike. This is before.
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19875591_1690149014627395_3050844147038596499_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=68af4acd8e58c65b76a82463d9cc2240&oe=5C067984)
This is after.
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14446107_1577704225871875_2645498125199228944_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=67a35c7a9eeebf79c9c25c1a6858b4a5&oe=5C0557B2)
Hi Jon,
Fantastic !!.
That gives us more inspiration to get our old machine back up and running and on the road.
We've been hunting around for some literature for the bike, we were able to get a reproduced copy of the Illustrated parts list from the National Motorcycle Museum which has been handy to work out some parts.
Do You recommend getting a copy of the instruction book ?
We've noticed tonight that the big long clutch pin that goes through the gearbox is stuck, so we have it soaking in WD40, hopefully that loosens it up a bit.
How did You go with Your tank instruments and the inspection lamp? are they complete on Yours? the instruments on ours are virtually destroyed and the inspection lamp is missing.
Also there is a brass tap on the side of the crankcase that turns on / off oil supply to something ? Can You shed any light on what that does ?
I take the view that you can never have too much information on your motorcycle, even if it sometime contradicts other sources of information.
You may already have these books, however I will let you know what I have, they sometime come up on ebay.
Book of BSA, All Models – SV& OHV Pre-War to 1939 Singles and Twins 150cc -250cc -350cc-500cc-600cc-750cc-1,000cc, ISBN1588500462 www.VelocePress.com
This book is rather general but worth having.
BSA Motor cycle maintenance and repair series by D. W.Munro, A Practical Guide Covering All Models from 1931,
Again this book attempts to cover to many models book has added to my over all knowledge
BSA Motor Cycle Replacement Parts 1932 models
I think you have electronic version of this book which is, very helpful.
BSA Motor Cycle Instruction Book, All models 1930 to 1932 inclusive
Buy it. See link to ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-Motor-Cycle-Instruction-Book-All-Models-1930-To-1936/153118415771?hash=item23a6919b9b%3Ag%3AAqMAAOSwmcZbXcY2&_sacat=122239&_nkw=BSA+Motor+Cycle+Instruction+Book%2C+All+models+1930+to+1932+inclusive&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-Motor-Cycle-Instruction-Book-for-all-models-1930-1936-Illustrated/273371192133?hash=item3fa6315b45%3Ag%3AUrsAAOSw6~VZwEXi&_sacat=122239&_nkw=BSA+Motor+Cycle+Instruction+Book%2C+All+models+1930+to+1932+inclusive&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
I was lucky all my instrument panel items worked.
The inspection lamp can be replaced with a plastic one for about £35 off ebay, however our bike should have a brass one, see ebay (expensive)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-lucas-dc40-panel-inspection-lamp-light-bsa-norton-areil-triumph/323368253291?hash=item4b4a3ff76b%3Ag%3At1QAAOSwyKta1jlU&_sacat=0&_nkw=BSA+inspection+lamp&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
or speak to owner of this website
http://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/bsa-g14.html
He also sell the rear stand spring replica, original BSA part number 24-6060 (book at page 151 of your electronic replacement parts book). Try putting the part number you need into Google I've been surprised.
Replacement preproduction Oil pressure gauge, 'EUREKA', 25psi
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/accessories-a-misc/product/10202-
Replacement preproduction Lucas instrument panel Ammeter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/REPRO-LUCAS-AMMETER-AMPERE-METER-8-AMP-BSA-TRIUMPH-ARIEL-AJS-NORTON-spc-/361787835556
The brass tap on the side of the crankcase is the oil pump control spindle. I'm not an expert, hence I'm sure why you would want to turn your oil pump off.
Hope this is useful.
Jon
Hi Jon,
Thanks again for Your info, I'll have to start investing in some of the documentation You have referenced, nothing worse than flying blind, to bad there isn't electronic copies of some of these floating around if they have fallen out of copyright.
A bit of an update on the bike, still slowly coming together.
Had new brake linings fitted to both front and rear, and the old asbestos linings removed & brake components cleaned up by local brake shop that specialise in that.
New Tyres / tubes / rim tape fitted to front and rear.
The magneto had virtually no spark when we spun it up with the cordless drill, removed the old condenser and fitted Brightspark EasyCap, still no good so took to a local shop that could re-magnetize magnetos, came back and then spun up throwing a 5-6mm spark ! Very happy.
Spent hours and hours scrubbing & scrapping petrified mud from wheel hubs, was so laborious to clean them up. But was nice to discover grease nipples that were buried under the mud and accent water reeds wrapped around the spokes from outback river crossings ?
Next step is to weld up frame rib fracture, get wheels back on, engine / gearbox back in and then off to exhaust guys to make up a simple black metal pipe and hot dog muffler.
Any recommendation in getting the saddle recovered ? Does anyone make covers you can purchase off the shelf and install yourself, or would that be something You take to an upholster that specialises in that type of thing?
Cheers,
Patrick
I have to say Patrick that your bike looks lovely just as it is! I've restored more bikes than I can remember, but I now love the look of a well-worn thing with all the patination of its past. If it were mine I'd sort the mechanics and just run as it is - there are loads of beautifully restored bikes out there, but very few in as-found condition.
Best of luck getting the mag sorted.
David
Hi David,
My Son has been saying from when He was given the bike that He wants to keep it as is, that lived in look, and I have to agree too.
So we might have to rethink that saddle cover? as that is probably one of the main things You first see when looking at the bike.
Maybe just stitch it up and hold it together, but its a bit crusty and I'd say it might crack and fall apart when He starts to ride it, I suppose worry about that then.
My Son has just reassembled the frame / gearbox and wheels over the weekend and today we are planning on dropping it off to the exhaust shop.
One thing We need assistance is to help identify possible missing spacers in the engine, gearbox mounts and rear wheel.
Because of the bike fix up being commenced by the previous owners it looks like we might be missing some bits, as we have gaps on the gearbox / engine mounting bolts, foot peg bolts etc.
Also not sure about the rear wheel, looks to not be sitting square, but We will pull it out and have a better play.
Any advise would be greatly welcome.
We are hoping Jon or another owner might be able to advise ( possibly take some photos of their machines so we can confirm).
Cheers,
Pat & Joe
Hi Pat and Joe
Some things just have to be replaced - the saddle is probably one of them. Are you going to fit a chromed exhaust? That will probably be a bit too new looking - black painted will probably be more appropriate.
Regarding spacers, these nearly always seem to be missing from projects. Have you got a parts book? I can scan the pages showing you what the spacers look like but unfortunately they include no dimensions. It does show bolt and stud lengths though which may help. Unfortunately, both my '32 and '34 machines have missing spacers so I can't give you lengths. However, the length of most is not critical and there length will be fairly obvious and very easy to turn-up on a lathe - shame you're on the other side of the world I could have made them for you!
Let me know if you need those parts catalogue pages. Can't recommend buying a copy too much.
Best regards
David
Hi David,
Yep, Your spot on again, Joe asked the guy at the exhaust shop today for just a basic black metal pipe with a hotdog, and showed pictures of other machines with original pipes, and asked if they can follow the same lines as much as possible.
I suppose this will be a good start, then we can work towards setting the valve and magneto timing and start kicking it over.
We did purchase a copy of the illustrated replacement parts manual from the National Motorcycle Museum (at great expense), but its a bit difficult to ID the correct spacers as they didn't seem to do proper exploded views for these earlier bikes.
We have found a master craftsman here in Australia ( a mere 1500km drive from our place ) that has made up some fantastic quality studs / bolts and nuts that were missing in the girders & engine, and we are currently making another shopping list of the missing and damaged frame, engine and gearbox mounting bolts and have quizzed Him about spacers.
Unfortunately we don't have a lathe at our disposal (on our wish list), but if You think simple tube steel cut to the correct length would do, we might be able to measure up the gaps and get our craftsman to turn up some spacers for it?
Or maybe if we just chop up the right size tubes in the drop saw to get us mobile.
Setting up the rear stand today we noticed it was rubbing on the rear brake operating lever & brake rod, so something wasn't quiet right back there.
If it was possible to take a photo of each side of Your rear wheel so we could compare brakes and sprocket areas with this end that would be great, even not sure if we have snail chain tensioner is in the correct location.
We have scoured the net looking for hi-res close up photos of a W32-6 and haven't really turned up too much with close up detail of the areas we need too see.
Our email address is: compacthack@gmail.com or a private message through the forum maybe.
What do You think about knee rubbers? We have replaced the foot rubbers, kickstarter rubber & handle grips, but are struggling to find replacement knee pad rubbers.
Also we noticed our modern grease gun struggles to fit the old grease nipples, any advise on getting grease into it? I do have the original small brass grease gun from my S8 Sunbeam, I'll have to drag it out and give it a try.
Thanks again,
Pat & Joe
Hi Pat and Joe
If you can keep the ends of the tube nice and square, then spacers made this way will be fine. Getting hold of an old Southbend or similar 4" lathe would make life much easier for you, even a Chinese machine would allow you to knock-up spacers and studs in a tidy way.
Regarding the rear wheel I don't think I can help much. My '32 machine is a lightweight and so dissimilar to your frame and my '34 Blue Star while having an almost identical frame has the brake on the sprocket side.
If you post a photo of the wheel hub/frame/stand relationship it might give some idea of what's awry. Looking at the '32 parts book is it possible that you might be missing the distance piece 24-6851 which from the look of it may fit on the brake side and is similar to that fitted on the front wheel?
Cornucopia have tank rubbers and Draganfly (sic) might also have them - not sure.
Best regards
David
Correction - Cornucopia used to have tank knee-grip rubbers. Looks like everyone has sold out of them :'(
Hi Guys,
Joe and I picked up the bike from the exhaust shop, and it didn't turn out too bad, will be good enough to get it fired up, might be fairly loud with just the hotdog & maybe one day save up and buy a more authentic reproduction with a fishtail silencer.
The internal twist grip throttle is now working and was able to use the original cable after soaking for a few days.
Could anyone explain what all handle bar controls do, obliviously the right hand internal twist is throttle, right hand lever is front brake, left hand lever is clutch.
But there is two thumb levers and a left hand twist control.
We were thinking left twist might be exhaust valve lifter, and left hand thumb is magneto timing ? no idea what the 2nd thumb control is for.
Also why a 2nd brake cable adjuster on the front girder forks ? Is it a solid rod from the front cable adjuster mounted on the girders to the brake control arm on the hub? or is it just the inner to the control arm, not sure..
We have attached a couple of photos of the rear wheel assembly not sure if You'll be able to see what we've put where, Will try and get a better shot in better light.
Cheers,
Pat & Joe
Left twistgrip for magneto advance/retard control.
Thumb lever on left bar usually on clutch lever is the exhaust lift.
Thumb lever on right is air control.
Hi Pat and Joe - Having taken a good look at the parts book and listed out all the components for the rear wheel - I think the critical bits I are as follows:
24-6851 Hub distance piece - this looks like it should go on the brake side and appears to be present on you machine.
15-6743 Adjusting sleeve - this is for adjusting play in the bearings and appears to be present on the sprocket side of your machine - which I think is the correct position.
24-6994 Adj sleeve locknut - this also looks like it's present on your machine - difficult to tell though.
24-6805 Adjusting plate (snail cam) x 2 - this might be present on the sprocket side but it looks more like a bodged spacer. On the brake side it looks like it's missing and also has a bodged spacer in its place.
I can scan the page if you don't have a copy of the parts book.
David
I think your front brake cable should come to the front adjuster position. If you look in the parts book you'll see it's a solid rod to the front brake.
Hi everyone,
So an update on the W32-6 Garage find project
After a stack more work the old bike fired up tonight and My Son was able to take it up and down the back lane (private property of course).
Some of the jobs that have been done since last post:-
* Modify a M20 Clutch pressure plate so it would with the W32 clutch housing
* Manufacture clutch compressing tool
* Source a substitute clutch spring (couldn't find the real thing)
* Reassemble clutch
* Shorten exhaust valve & set tappet clearance
* Set valve timing
* Mount magneto and set position correctly with shims.
* Set magneto timing & points gap
* Fit front brake, clutch, ignition timing, valve lifter cables
* Get rear brake working, fit return spring.
* Fit new fuel tap & fuel line
* Made spacers for gearbox & engine mounts
* Install washers on back wheel axle to substitute missing snail cam on RHS otherwise brake calipers would bind on an angle, need to source snail cam
* Fix oil pressure regulator & pump, was full of gunk & wound so tap had no effect at all.
This has kept Joe nice and busy since last post.
The main issue now is the clutch, it slips when trying to kick start and You hit a compression stroke. So the starting method has been: put it in gear, clutch in, de-compressor open, push bike, release clutch, get engine turning, release de-compressor, keep pushing & she fires up.
Because we couldn't source a real clutch spring we substituted a spring that fitted into the pressure plate ok but may not be providing enough force onto the clutch, the clutch does feel light on the clutch lever when pulled in, but We have no idea what a real clutch should feel like.
Has anyone got any ideas were we could source the spring to suit ? We tried a M20 spring but it was way to big to fit into the clutch assembly.
But we are super excited with the progress & getting Her fire up, probably the 1st time in easily 30-40 years.
We have ordered some BSCY nuts and bolts to get the tank mounted correctly, need to fashion up a knob for the gear level, get a brake light working, fit a small digital pushbike speedo, fit oil pressure gauge & then see if We can get a Club Permit issued to allow road use !
Can't wait.
Here are a couple of more recent photos.
Cheers, Pat & Joe
Looking good!
Hi Guys,
So the bike passed the safety inspection and Joe picked up His permit so it can be ridden on the road.
Here is a brief video, https://photos.app.goo.gl/82iQR9T9xDzsHZha6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/82iQR9T9xDzsHZha6)
I've taken it for a couple of rides and it is great fun, a real experience. The gear control rod & arm is very warn so selecting gears is a bit of a job while riding & not quiet idling yet.
Which has caused a few stalls when coming up to traffic lights, roll to the side of the road, get it back into 2nd or 1st, push start when the light changes, jump on and away it goes.
The gearbox itself has nice positive gear changing & I'm sure if we reduce the slop in the connecting rod and arm / arm and tank gear lever it will improve conk out factor.
So not a cruisey / relaxing ride at the moment but a real buzz to take it out on the road, a real head turner as You steam by people.
We have been able to kick start it after Joe did some extra work on the clutch, replaced 3 more friction plates and roughened up the drive plate surfaces.
The bolt that holds the cush drive to the crankshaft did come loose on a short trip to the supermarket, was able to tighten up while in the back of a pub, but have to work out how to stop it from coming undone.
Cheers,
Pat & Joe
Well done :) Sounds great.
Re the the cush drive nut coming loose - is there not a tab washer of some sort ?
Cheers, Bevan
There's no tab - if we're talking about the central sleeve nut that secures the cush-drive and sprocket assembly to the crankshaft taper. It shouldn't come loose since the keyway and the taper should be enough to make sure that nothing can move. If there was any movement this should tighten the nut. Try a bit of Loctite if you're worried about it and make sure it's tight.
It looks and sounds great BTW.
Hi Guys,
Thanks for that, the old bike does have a great note !
The cush drive doesn't have a tab washer fitted, I might have a quick look at the parts list. I did see that the M20 may have a tabbed washer.
It seems that its the inner bolt that holds the cush drive assembly to the crankshaft is coming loose not the big outer nut that compresses the spring on.
Maybe if we make a strange shaped tabbed washer that can fold over into the outer nut and also all the way over and push against one of the flats bolt that goes into the crankshaft. Or Loctite it on like David recommends (Loctite 222 ?). Just might be a pain If we ever have to get it off.
Its a bit hard to get the inner bolt really tight as it tries to turn the engine over and back wheel, Is there anyway to lock the crankshaft while the bolt is tightened ? Or just get a long arm on a socket and give it a couple of taps.
Attached is a photo,
Cheers,
Could you get a grip on the castellations with a chain wrench or possibly large set of stillsons to hold it steady?
Also, just noticed, have you got your primary chain removable link clip on the wrong way round?
Cheers,
Bernie
Hi Bernie,
Thats a great idea to grip on to the castellations, we don't have a chain wrench so maybe the large stillsons with a rag or alliminium strips on the castellations so the stillsons don't tear them up?
Oh yeah, thanks for noticing the removable link, must have been in the mad rush to get the chain covers on for the inspection! Will swap it around before the next voyage out.
Cheers,
Hello,
Could you help me?
I'm restoring a 1932 BSA 350 B.S and it fits the same backstay that your one.
Could you tell me the measurement between the hols to the chainstay and seat suport. See picture please.
Thanks in advance
Hey Adam,
Very sorry for the late reply, haven't been back to this forum for a while, to busy enjoying lockdown !
Joe and I measured up the backstay in question on Joe's bike, here are the photos.
We make it out approx 337mm or 13" 5/16 ?
If You need anymore measurements or photos taken, please let us know.
So your bike is missing this backstay ? can you source or will You need to manufacture ?
Cheers,
Pat & Joe
Thanks!!
Regarding your grease nipples, modern ones fit straight in. Then u can use your modern gun.Did this on mine, works a treat.