Please pardon my lack of knowledge again. I asked this on a previous message, but in case it got lost amongst other issues, here is my question again. I have drained my engine oil and am about to refill. When I start the engine, I assume that by shining a torch into the oil tank, I should see the returning oil squirting out of the return pipe into the tank? How long after starting the engine should it take for the returning oil to arrive at the tank? Thanks in advance. Phil.
Depends if you put any oil in the sump to start with , I would , but my recent new start with about a quarter pint in the sump returned in about 4 to 6 seconds . I had rebuilt the engine with rebuild oil so wouldn't have been concerned till about 10 seconds . I wasn't happy with my return so ended up with an ABSAF pump and morgo filter which is excellent return .
Kick it over a number of times before starting to allow the pump to feed the bigend.
Ah, okay, thanks. And then I should see the returning oil within a few seconds of starting the engine?
Presumably if I do that then I won't need to put any oil in the sump as the kicking over will take care of that?
Put oil in the sump as well.
BSA actually recommended it for the twins on an oil change.
With my A10 I prime the sump then kick it over until oil is seen to return to the tank. Then start it and run it until I see aerated oil returning after the initial prime is cleared by the pump. That shows me that the feed side of the pump is also working.
Priming the sump gets oil to the rockers quicker than it would without.
For me, nothing is simple. But I'm slowly learning.
How do I prime the sump, ie where do I pour my quarter pint of oil in?
Also, how do I know returning oil is aerated? (the return pipe isn't transparent)
Thanks for your patience.
Phil.
Hi Phil,
I use an oil can, remove the timing plug or plate from the front of the crank case and pump the oil in the timing peg hole. The oil returning into the oil tank will determine if its aerated, it will have bubbles in it.
Best wishes...
Thanks Bess, but I'm not even sure where the timing plug or plate is on my bike (1965 B40F).
With your B40 just remove a rocker inspection cover and pour it in there, it will drain to the sump.
Phil
Thanks for asking the questions...... I was just going to put the oil in the tank.....so now I know better.
I'm not convinced I'll be able to see air bubbles, given that my return pipe isn't transparent (it's black) - I won't be able to see them in the oil squirting into the tank, will I? Phil.
Leave enough room in the oil tank for the quantity of oil you use to prime the sump.
When the excess oil is cleared from the sump you will notice that the return oil isuing from the pipe in the tank tends to pulsate, the return gears in the pump have to be larger than the feed gears to keep the sump dry so the return will be oil and air.
So a quarter of a pint is about right?
When I fitted my rebuilt engine back into the bike, I was advised to take the plug out, loosen one of the rocker feeds, and run up and down the road with the bike in 3rd gear until oil drips from the rocker feed! Also recommended to use clear reinforced plastic oil tubing so can see the oil being returned from the engine!
Phil
The ball bearing may still be in your pump and ready to do its job:
Like you I didn't locate the ball bearing on probing, leaving me with similar concerns.
Out of curiosity I've just bought a pump off ebay.... and guess what no obvious sign of the ball bearing, but I could hear a slight rattle on shaking. On inspection with a torch and my best pair of specs I think I can see the bearing at the top....but it won't drop by shaking or sucking on scavenge pipe. When I suck (or blow) on the scavenge tube there is hardly any air movement.
So I took the pump apart. The top end of the scavenge pipe is off-set in the zinc bottom plate from the opening into the pump lower gears....so as far as I can see the bearing can not travel up to touch the gears. With this plate off , when I suck on the scavenge the ball bearing obviously moves and immediately seats at the top of the pipe and would block flow down. when I blow it unseats so oil would flow up.
I'm left wondering if the ball bearing at the bottom of the scavenge tube is just a misleading load of pants to wind up us novices...........as if we didn't have enough things to panic about !!
I feel reassured anyway.... but will also take the helpful advice on filling approach, as postees have provided
( as for the pump I bought ....the scavenge tube itself seems to be out of alignment...with the bottom leaning to the bike front direction...I presume they should point straight down and perpedicular to the pump body. If anyone know otherwise let me know as I'm presuming it's a duffer...although internals looked good)
Yes, me too. But as you might see on the other thread I started, mine's on hold now awaiting a standard oil filter and associated union nut etc from Draganfly (I've decided to bin the gas tap) - should be with me in the next few days. Phil.