Hi
I'm after some help with my 1965 A65L
I have rebuilt the engine over the winter and its been running fine.
However I'm now finding difficulty in starting it due to what feels like 'clutch slip' when I'm kicking it over from cold.
When its running its fine, the clutch doesn't slip at all when its being ridden.
When I'm kicking it over from cold though, it just feels like its slipping through the clutch and not turning the engine, not all the time, occasionally you can feel compression and its tries to splutter to start.
The clutch plates look fine, and the outer plate is running true. any amount of clutch adjustment seems to make no difference.
I don't want to start stripping it down again, so just asking for some help before I get the spanners out.
Hi,
Is the oil level and or the grade of oil correct?
Best wishes...
Im using ATF as I was advised, level is correct
Hi waley,
Oil choice is very emotive, if I judge at this point I am fully aware I might as well open the popcorn at sit back for a week or two, so I always suggest this link:-
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/oil030319.html
ATF, auto transmission fluid? if so it might be synthetic or semi, I suggest it has very good lub properties enhancing slip in your clutch. If it was me I would dismantle the primary/clutch and thoroughly clean. Reassemble and add a SAE20, use for 100 miles or so and flush adding a SAE20 or equivalent.
Best wishes....
ps. if you took advice and don't own a manual, pm me...
Thanks for the info, that's a useful article, I was recommended to use a hydraulic type oil ATF or fork oil by two separate local Brit bike shops. What I can't get my head round is that there is no slip when it's running, it only seems to occur when I'm kicking it over. I think I'm going to need to strip the clutch down again and try your suggestion.
On a separate note, what's the best way of preventing the engine turning when tightening the rotor nut and the clutch centre nut... without removing the barrels and putting a bar through the little ends ??
Thanks in advance
You'll need a clutch locking tool in order to tighten the rotor nut, especially if your clutch slips. The best locking tool also has an arm attached which enables you to also stop the clutch from rotating. If not then you'll need to put the engine in gear and lock the drive sprocket using a chain attached. I normally lock the chain by allowing the chain to jam against the engine casing but this is not always ideal.
Hi waley,
You ask why there is no slip when it's running, my guess is that when running the oil is being centrifuged out of the clutch. Here's a good article:
http://sumpmagazine.com/classic-bike-workshop/bsa-a65-clutch.htm
Thumper offered a locking method, here's a link for a proprietary tool:
http://www.nookysnuts.com/catalogue/tools/clutchlockingtools/clutchlockingtools.html
To recycle and save some cash, I had some old friction and smooth plates which I bolted together to put into the clutch.
Best wishes...
ATF - there are a number of different specifications, to suit different transmission designs some of which are not suitable for our bike clutches.
I have just fitted an SRM clutch to my A10 and the advice from them was not to use TQF or ATF but to use a standard 10/30 or 10/40 engine oil. I followed that advice and get no slip.
Hi waley,
Image of the clutch tool. I left the nuts/bolts lightly tightened to help with locating in the clutch basket.
Also, BSA clutch adjustment service sheet.
Best wishes...
I shall be making a locking tool this week
Thanks again for all the good advice
Hi Wally. Just a thought, you may have a tight valve clearance allowing you to mistake a compression leak with a slipping clutch.
Baza