My new clutch was fitted on the bench, new plates and correct springs and a spare pressure plate as the old one had a bodged adjusting nut. Today I fitted a new clutch cable NOS, The push rod does seem to be reaching the adjusting nut and the clutch has no travel whatsoever. I took off the pressure plate to access the push rod. it is exactly 11" long and is blued one end. The parts list states that it should be 11" & 1/16" long. ( 1/16" :-\ ). Would this lack of travel prevent the clutch disengaging ?
To compound problems, the bike is on the stand and I am not getting any younger. I cannot get the Clutch Spring Nuts to start on the wobbly clutch spring bolts. In fact one now has a knacker thread.
Any top tips for getting these bolts on by a silly old sod sitting on the garage floor. At least it's not cold :D
Hi,
The reduced length would make the difference, also check that the 7/32" ball bearing is still located in the push rod pin on the timing side.
On the clutch spring nuts I use a flat piece of steel 1" wide 8" long the exact thickness to fit the nut slots to start them. On the other end of the steel it has a slot to allow the bolt to pass into if the bolt extends past the nut.
Good luck and best wishes..........
Hi Bess. Cannot see the ball bearing on Dragonfly's parts list, just the bush ? I am sure the ball bearing and the extra 1/16" should take up the slack. I am looking at the 1971 model. Thanks for reply. Colin.
Hi,
Please see attachment, the ball fits in the end of the push rod pin which pushes onto the rod. They are a normal ball bearing, I bought a few via Ebay to keep for spares. The part number is 60-2363.
Beat wishes...
Hi,
There is another A65 clutch issue running in the form which maybe worth a read. I have attached a BSA service sheet which updates the manual. Hope it helps.
Best wishes...
Thanks Bess. Can I pop the bearing in from the clutch side. May seem a silly question !! Thanks.
I have been sent the following which I have heard of before.
The new discs are slightly thicker than the originals so your push rod is too short by about 1/4".(or a smidgeon more)
You can either cut it in half, temper the cut ends an insert a 3/16 ball bearing in between or get another pushrod and butt the two cut ends after tempering them.
They are an akward diameter and a 6 mm rod won't slide smoothly.
Unquote.
Hi,
I guess you can insert a ball from the clutch end, the rod and ball are both 7/32", although I would check to see if there is a ball in place beforehand, you don't want to double up.
Not too sure why you have been quoted that the rod is an awkward diameter, I buy silver steel at 7/32" and temper the rods myself. Here's a link, not saying they are the cheapest and best but it was the first that came up after searching:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imperial-Silver-Steel-Round-Bar-Round-Ground-Shaft-Rod-Various-sizes-lengths/272093047759?var=570902844952&hash=item3f5a026bcf:m:mOM0nhXVrQQxH9SSn81qEQg
Best wishes...
The 1971 workshop manual section GD6 gives the rod as 11 1/8 inch long x 7/32 inch diameter (which is about 5.5 mm)
I have now got the clutch back together on the warm day. I took off the right hand casing and greased the cam-thrust mechanism. Now when I engage the clutch a horrible noise comes from cam thrust. Although the clutch is working this noise cannot be ignored. Section B23 of my manual does not show any adjustment of this item as it is held together by a spring and split pin. Has anyone got any experience in this department please.
Please describe the noise, is it only when you operate the handlebar lever or is it continuous?
Hi Bess. I removed the cam thrust today, split the whole lot and gave it a Gunk bath. The three ball bearings and seating's looked good after a wash. Reassembled with copper grease, adjusted the cable and clutch nut as per BSA Workshop Manual. Now have a silent correct clutch operation. Still need a new longer push rod or a longer adjusting stud if I could get one ? At least I have a strong clutch that seems to work fine. 8)
That sounded like the 'dreaded click'! They all do that sir! I have never got to the bottom of why thus happens but strongly suspect its the balls actually coming out of the dimples due to the arm travelling too far. What makes me think this is the cause is the way the resistance on the clutch lever suddenly disappears which it will as the push rod wont be pushing any more as the balls have done their lifting. Why t clicks I don't know and they always return home safe. I get round this by leaving a a bit of tension on the inner cable at that end i.e no slack but make sure there is a good slack at the handlebar lever. I believe this limits the amount of travel to just enough to get the balls as high up without escaping.
Just my theory, maybe totally misguided - who knows!
Chris
Thanks. I have a clutch that works silently now. Hardly any travel in the handlebar lever but it works. Most of my previous bikes had loads of clutch travel, I don't think I have come across this cam thrust system before. Live and learn !
Hi,
Editor you're on the right track.
The click happens when the wrong handlebar levers are fitted, the extra cable travel rolls the balls out of the dimples. Fit the correct BSA specified levers and no click.
The ball mechanism on a Triumph and the lever mechanism on a BSA used to actuate the clutch rod was designed to be used with a clutch lever with a 7/8" fulcrum. Using a clutch lever with a 1 1/8" fulcrum will rotate the ball mechanism, or move the lever, beyond their design limits. The problem for a lot of British bikers is the lever most commonly sold in the after market, and the cheapest, is one with a 1 1/8" fulcrum".
Best wishes...
My levers are the standard Lucas alloy, fitted when it left the factory. Still open to these good answers.
Hi,
Handlebar lever fulcrum pivot screw and or pivot hole worn, lever bent?
Best wishes...
Lever is fine and I have fitted new screws in both levers. ? The clutch is new, never been run and never seen oil yet as the chain case is still off. Thanks.
That's all my ideas exhausted, if your in the southwest with it pop in... :)
Some good news, the pin 57-4038 is now being remade, so it could be fitted to the Triumph mechanism with slight fettling. only £12.60 ;D
Mine are also, the combined Lucas switch versions.
However, Bess has a point as I suspect the lever can travel too far depending on where it's positioned on the handlebar and the type of handlebar grip you are using. If the lever is positioned so the ball end sticks outboard or the bar end at full pull or in my case aswell the h/bar grip is one of the thin cheapo ones which both contribute to a larger travel on the cable.
Looks like we may have found the root cause at last!! Hoorah!!
Chris
Sorry bit of a typo Should read...... sticks outboard of the bar end at full pull....
Chris
That makes very good sense, well done.