I'm looking to fit a fuse holder to each of two wires which lead from my battery, under the side cover of my 1965 B40F. I was thinking of in-line holders for glass fuses, but that would mean splitting each of the two wires to put the fuse holder in, and having a connection a couple of inches or so from each side of the holder (I was thinking of bullet and snap connectors) so each wire would have a fuse holder and two snap connectors. A total of two fuse holders and four snap connectors in an already fairly congested area near the battery would be less than ideal. I wondered if anyone had any suggestions please, based on experience, of best ways to do this. Would I be better off with, say, Scotchlok connectors? From what I read, they are compact, and, as a bonus, easy to install. Thanks in advance. Phil.
There is a fair amount of room for the wiring harness under the seat on a B40. If I was looking to add two fuses to a B40, I would probably look at fitting a proper multi-fuse box, perhaps bolted to the mudguard to make the arrangement a lot neater. I've used the type below on two of my bikes and it only costs £6!
Where did you find that one, AWJDThumper? Phil.
It's one of these which can be fitted with standard modern bullet fuses:
http://eshop.lmslichfieldltd.com/epages/BT4011.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4011/Products/Lms0010
I've used these blade type fuses in a few bikes ( on and off road ) and never had a problem. They seem to 've a more positive connection than the bullet ones. Also I've never really trusted scotchlocks on things that vibrate or get damp, they actually have a very small contact area. I always solder the joints an cover them with heat shrink tubing.
I agree with thumpers though, a multi-way block would be a lot neater. You can get them for blade fuses too.
Forgive my lack of knowledge: what are "standard modern bullet fuses"? Phil.
They look like ceramic bodies with tapered ends to me. Beloved of the likes of MZ and CZ. Not paticularly common. I prefer a standard blade type fuse hidden in one of thos black plastic in-line holders like Dabbist uses, hidden away in the dummy battery box. Fitted to all the bikes it means carrying only one type of easily obtainable fuse in the one tool kit which I can swap between bikes.
Steve
I would go with that one that Dabbist added, you can pick those car type fuses up anywhere, the days of a local car shop has gone, it's Halfords or somewhere similar, and you can carry them around easily...just saying.
Phil
Quote from: Phil C on 02 Apr, 2018, 12:45
Forgive my lack of knowledge: what are "standard modern bullet fuses"? Phil.
The proper title is a 'continental fuse' and they are readily available including from Halfords. The 10A ones are coloured red.
Thanks AWJDT. Do the connections on this fuse box tighten onto bare wire or onto a fork/ring connector?
Also, do you get fed up of me asking basic questions?!
Phil.
There are a pair of screw terminals for each fuse and so it's easy to connect to. There are two holes in the base and 2 x M6 Allen screws are normally used to fix it in place. Instead of bolting it to the mudguard, the other possibility might be to mount it on the side plate on to which the too box cover attaches - that way it would be easy to get at the fuses.
The advantage of the continental fuse box is that they tend to be lower profile than the blade fuse boxes but either would do the job.
And - I'm always happy to answer questions :)
It seems continental fuses don't come in anything between 8A and 16A? AWJDThumper, does the fuse box you recommend also take ordinary old-fashioned glass fuses? Phil.
It can be a bit difficult to buy them separately but here's 2 x 10A for £2.49:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Ceramic-Car-Fuse-5A-8A-10A-16A-20-AMP-Torpedo-Bullet-Continental-Classic-Car/172615696614?hash=item2830b280e6:g:QTMAAOSwc-tY3UE0
Thanks AWJDT. So I assume it doesn't take ordinary old-fashioned glass fuses. Phil.
No. It relies on the tapered and pointy ends to fit into the spring clips at either end.