Hi
I have a B25 engine that looks like it has been assembled from a box of bits. Lots of the fasteners are only hand tight. On strip down I have found that the timing hole does not align with the crankcase casting and the oil end feed has been hammered.
How do I check the crankshaft is the correct version and can I get the end feed shaft sleeved?
The end feed shaft runs true past the damage but it looks like the seal runs close to the end of the shaft.
Pault
If you haven't got the Rupert Ratio books - especially 'the engine' one, then you should get them. They are packed with info.
Thank you. The previous owner gave me the set of books. I can't see any detail to identify if I have the correct crank nor how to measure the float.
The timing hole in the crank is visually out of line and the tool will not go in. Maybe the bearing in timing side is not fully home in the crankcase but the bottom end was assembled and turned freely.
I found a company (Seager Engineering ltd) that offer end feed repairs by sleeving it. Has anyone used them?
I can't help you with Seager Engineering, having not come across them before. Performance Engineering Services (PES) get mentioned from time to time - I believe they specialise in BSA singles.
The only other advice I can offer is don't trust anything the previous owner has done - or had done. My C15 had had the bottom end professionally reassembled by a motorcycle shop in London many years ago, and had not been run since. The camshaft bushes were shot, the cam shaft was shot, the gearbox layshaft bush was shot as was the layshaft. And the sludge trap was nearly totally full.
Seager Engineering do superb work, but you might want to consider the cost before giving them the engine to fix. :o
Thanks
If I can determine I have the correct crankshaft, I would get them to just repair the oil feed end. The fact that the timing hole does not align worries me. It's half a hole out with no shims and the timing side brg snug in its housing. The Rupert ratio book says the latter crankshaft can be fitted, by machining back the bearing journal but my crank was in the casings and was turning fine, so I can't imagine it's an unaltered crank.
No one has suggested how to determine I have the correct crank.
The crank is now out and I need to remove the sludge trap plug and flywheel discs next. I need to find a suitable tool to remove the sludge trap plug. I see that there is a modern hex key plug available for reassembly.
From memory I bought a 1/2" drive drag link bit and adjusted it for a perfect fit. And used a breaker bar. Having first warmed it up to some magic figure that I found on line. Might have been 100C. I used a temp gun to make sure not to overheat it. It came out sweet as pie. (This was on a C15.)
Hi,
Now you have the crank out, post some photos to help with ID.
Dave.
Hi Dave
I have now some photos. Flywheels now removed. The sludge trap was full of steel slivers like from a milling machine. The flywheel bolts were bonded in, I dont think the sludge trap was. Big end looks good. The shim on the timing side has been formed to the radius of the crank/brg, is that normal or is the shim wrong (0.15mm thick)
I have just found photos are too big. i will find out how to reduce resolution and post them later.
IMG_0093.jpgIMG_0094.jpgIMG_0095.jpg
Here are some photos. There are a couple more to come.
Here are a couple more.
I have just found two stamps on the timingside crankshaft a "V" and Nos "54"IMG_0086.jpg