Hi
Most suppliers quote part 65-8795 for cable but in their descriptions they, as far as I'm aware, state this part number only fits up to 1958.
Dimensions are similar to cable I have with pear nipple at handle bar end. Is there another part number for my particular bike? Thank you
Draganfly list 65-8795 for all B31 and B33 models up to 1960. I can't think why it would change. The Rigid B32 and B34 models for 1953 - 1955 have a different part number, almost certainly because of a different length.
There was a change in lever and cable in 1959, shown on parts bulletin G6 of March 1959. I have no o
ther details of the change. I would presume that the same parts were originally fitted to the 1960, GB33 frame number prefix models.
G6 attached.
Out of curiosity I had a look as I only recall seeing one type of lever but there are two; one with a nipple in line with the cable and one with a larger nipple across like a brake cable.
Quote from: JulianS on 02 Mar, 2026, 15:20 There was a change in lever and cable in 1959, shown on parts bulletin G6 of March 1959. I have no o
ther details of the change. I would presume that the same parts were originally fitted to the 1960, GB33 frame number prefix models.
G6 attached.
quote]
Thank you
Hi, If you are into these vintage motorcycles, or cycles, you will need to get to make your own Bowden Cables. Parts can be obtained from Venhill's. All you need is a hot soldering iron and some 60/40 resin cored lead solder. ( avoid the politicaly correct new zinc based solders.)
I have made some brass nipples for special jobs, such as a choke cable and rear brake cable on a 1925 bike. Also a throttle cable for an old Ford Tractor.
Once you have the cable through the nipple, bend the last 1/16 inch of each strand by 90 degrees, in random directions. Then pull this bird's nest back into the recess of the nipple, and solder into place. Grind any excess metal, so the parts fit together.
Most of Venhill's cables are nylon lined, but even to the most eagle eyed purist, they look the same as the originals.
Yes, I've had some nipple pull of new replacement cables and the nipple has been a zinc (or something with a low melting point) casting direct on the cable. I now feel safer doing my own.
For soldering cables the information I have is the plumbers solder and flux must be used - something to do with the acid in the flux. Also a soldering pot/crucible transforms the process. You birdnest the cable end and assemble in the nipple, then dip it in flux and then the solder pot for a perfect result in seconds, every time.
Quote from: Tigerfeet on 09 Mar, 2026, 06:59 For soldering cables the information I have is the plumbers solder and flux must be used - something to do with the acid in the flux. Also a soldering pot/crucible transforms the process. You birdnest the cable end and assemble in the nipple, then dip it in flux and then the solder pot for a perfect result in seconds, every time.
Yes, I use the plumbers solder and flux not electrical type. I don't use a pot or cage device so more of a fiddle so might have to invest in both.
The flux is acidic, that's how it cleans, the problem is is wicks up the cable strands and corrodes it from the inside. I've had this happen. The trick is to wash it all thoroughly after soldering and try to keep the flux only to the birds nest at the end.
I use Bakers Soldering Fluid flux. This is also known as "killed spirits". It is made by dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid until there is no more reaction. i.e It stops emitting hydrogen gas. The resultant fluid should no longer be acidic. I've been using it with a solder pot for years and haven't been aware of subsequent corossion of the cable.
I haven't seen Bakers fluid in years, I'll keep that in mind. Where did you get it?
Quote from: limeyrob on 09 Mar, 2026, 11:19 I haven't seen Bakers fluid in years, I'll keep that in mind. Where did you get it?
I can't remember. I've been using it for the last 30 years or more ;D