Hi All,
I had posted the end of 2024, but received no replies - thought I would try, again. Starting over ...
Made some progress since then:
- previously rebuilt front end with new bearings, seals, etc
- sorted the wiring with numerous bullet repairs and some wiring modifications to shorten the length here and there
- installed the Podtronics rec/reg direct to the battery
- clutch - installed new rubbers, new thrust washer
- new drive sprocket and seal
- new rear wheel sprocket
- installed and timed per instructions the Boyer Brandsen Mk IV
- cleaned tank with vinegar and drywall screws; it looked pretty good prior, but better now. Paraffin and oil still washing around in it
- recovered the seat
- primed the new header pipe
- got a battery, first time powered in 44 years
- installed new rear brake switch, adjusted and working
- cleaned the front brake cable switch and finally got it working
- routed a couple more cables
- got spark (this was a big deal :-)
Remaining questions right now relate to routing - there are so many variations in the many photos I've seen. I tried to route based on what the bike looked like during disassembly, but much of that seemed a bit wrong ... will address via photos following:
- primary side vent tube - in photo it is run like it was originally, and the new hose is the same length - thoughts?
- OIF vent tube - original ran down the front frame and into a frame clip, terminating at the bottom of the frame - thoughts?
- clutch cable
- compression release cable
- front brake cable
- throttle cable
- wiring harness from left and right bar switches
OIF vent tube ...
Hi,
I am not a B50 expert but your bike looks really good. Post some photos when it is complete.
Just a couple of observation re routing.
Speedo cable perhaps secured to swinging arm to prevent sagging.
Rather than have the the OIF breather running down the front of the frame could it be brought under the tank to run down to the primary breather?
Primary breather is venting on to the tyre - is alternative location possible?
On the image showing the swinging arm/chain adjuster there is a nut that is not done up.
All control cables need to have as smooth a run possible - the clutch looks OK in the photo but check the run with full steering movement, especially to the left which will tend to tighten the curve from the lever.
It is worth checking the brake cable when under load/braking as the cable will flex as the forks compress and the curve of the cable will change.
Throttle should snap shut and be smooth, again no tight curves.
I try to get wiring from switches to be as tidy as possible and run them under the bars and tight to the clamps. If they go in to the electrics box on the front of the frame ensure enough play for when the bars are on full lock.
Dave.
Hello.. I can help regarding the Engine breather from primary case. The pipe is routed between the top of the air filter case and tool tray. It seems to be partially trapped in that location, but it can be the only logical route for where the clip on the rear mudguard is attached. Pics are from my 1972 Victor when I had just bought it (one owner bike). HTH
Ian - thank you - the bracket for the hose looks identical - I'll try that - gotta be better than hanging in front if the rear tire!
Dave - thank you - will check through your list and post back! The OIF vent line looks to have a clip at the lower frame in front of engine ... I'll see if I can route it further aft.
Having some trouble loading photos from ipad, so ... here's a link to google photo album ... a few additional photos there, as well ... always looking for input!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RNUZbXMTDTPffmyr7
Dave - thanks for the compliment - some background.
Bought the 1972 B50 SS in 1981 from a BSA/Triumph shop in Bryan, Texas - the shop had taken title in lieu of payment for repair work - supposedly engine rebuilt, but not really certain. About $500 if I recall. Had about 12,000 miles on it then. Rode for a year.
The bike moved with wife and I and then kids about 10 times while I flew P-3s in the Navy ... and then after. Kept buying parts I knew would be needed, but never got to fixing it. Retired and then had time. Goofed off and didn't get restarted until the bright bits were painted. Tried to replace only those components needing it - wanted to retain a bit of patina on it.
Ian - any photos of your Victor would be great - might help me sort cable and hose routing. Your petcock to carb inlet photo already solves one mystery, I think. I have ferrules and a crimper - yours rigging looks original?
If you let me know what areas you need to know for routing etc, I'll drag the Victor out of it's 'naughty corner' in the garage and take some more pics. The fuel pipes were original I believe, but I did replace the flexible parts with new after I took the photos posted earlier.
Hi Ian,
Posting some photos - my goal is try to get routings, etc, as close to factory as possible - but, I'm sure folks have come up with better ways :-)
Questions:
1. Compression release cable
- run from the handlebar inside or outside of the light can support bracket?
- under or over the tank support rubber on the left side?
2. Clutch cable
- inside the light can support bracket?
- in front of the primary cover vent?
3. Front brake cable
- from handlebar inside or outside of the light can support bracket? (I had it this way but, it just doesn't seem right?
- where are the attaching clips supposed to go - see photo?
4. Throttle cable
- front handlebar inside or outside of the light can support bracket?
More photos
Final set at this point ...
Thanks for any comments on routing, etc.
Sorry - forgot 5!
5. How the OIF drain runs ... how far back?
Routed the primary vent line - this just seems so clumsy - is it correct - at least correct as it looked from the factory?
The battery is basically resting against it.
Sorry about the boat line being in the way ... have it "safetied" to the ceiling.
Hi All,
Been trying to determine best way to share all the photos of disassembly and rebuild.
I think this will work using my OneDrive - read only - I will work to organize these a bit more, but they are pretty easy to review and hopefully it will help someone else. Let me know if you have issues getting to it and I'll check.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhNoDLSd9nDe9whrLzFzZc4Ls5hJ?e=foJoys
It works for me but you may need a microsoft account to access.
OK - small detail, but need some stick and rudder ...
How did factory run the fuel hoses/fuel petcock connectors?
Photos show could have different ways - I have the "book" 30 degree connectors. The carb fitting can apparently be turned facing forward or rearwards (aft). With both petcock connectors AND the carb fitting facing aft, it seems to clear the primary side vent better than the opposite.
How did the factory set up?
And, BTW, washed the tank out three times with fuel - first time fuel in 44 years!
Been kinda quiet out there - lack of input so I rigged the fuel lines as photo shows.
Biggest issue this post is the battery terminal to metal side cover clearance ... I have the correct battery size per the book, but the terminals are so close to cover I put a foam and tape pad over the negative terminal just in case. Didn't have original battery to dry fit ... thoughts?
Link to all photos of this bike - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhNoDLSd9nDe9whrLzFzZc4Ls5hJ?e=wy2XcC
Hi,
The final position of fuel lines etc. is probably a bit subjective and I would imagine that there was a bit of variation from the factory. Neat and tidy and to your aesthetic satisfaction is what counts.
On some BSAs the battery terminals do seem a bit close to metal bits but if all the factory securing parts are in place then they should be fine. However, there is nothing wrong with a bit of 'belt and braces' and a foam pad or a bit of rubber as an extra precaution in quite sensible.
Dave.
Thanks, Dave - big determinant is the primary vent hose - played with it today - think it's OK. Only leaks I had were the old style ferrules - they will not seal the outlet pipes from the tank. Clamps work fine. Oh, well, another tool that will probably not get much use in the future.
Well, one step forward one back ... put it all together, rolled it out of the garage and tried a few kicks.
Bad news - nothing, not even a pop. Pulled plug after about 20 kicks - no spark. I had spark when I tested for spark a few weeks ago. So, back into garage for two hours of troubleshooting. Found the white/yellow wire from the kill switch did not have battery power with ignition turned on. Back tracked and found white wire feeding power to the kill switch was about to fall apart. Nothing obvious from outside, but once cut open showed signs of copper corrosion with the usual telltale green - and hade just pulled apart inside enough to have either intermittent or no power. Moving the four wires in a six connector Lucas holder individually while watching the multi-meter pointed the way. Didn't have extra connectors, so, drilled out the bullet, cut wire back and soldered - for now. Good spark now. Glad it wasn't the kill switch or switch assembly!
Good news - the plug was wet with fuel, and carb not (yet) leaking!
Wanted to add experience with battery - installed the correct size PUZ5, but the darn thing just barely fits under the side cover. Initially put some foam over the negative terminal (positive ground system), but found a plastic corner cover piece - the steel cover plus proximity with the battery terminal pretty much requires some form of insulation cover IMO.
Hi,
A tidy solution to a potential problem so definitely a step forward.
Dave.
Status Update!
It's ALIVE! (last alive in 1981, Corpus Christi, Texas)
After a few hours of tinkering, recleaning and adjusting Amal, a bit of 2000 grit sanding in the throat and on the slide, figuring out a couple of fuel leaks, rerigging the throttle cable and grip, etc, etc ... rolled it out, played with it a bit, a few kicks trying to remember how, a backfire, and one last kick ... instant start and smooth idle ... unbelievable!
Rode to neighbor's house and back in first gear ... shut it down ... tried to restart ... finally got restarted and then adjusted air screw and idle for suitable tick over. Noticed it smelled and showing heated smoke on cylinder, and was sounding different. Shut it down.
So, earlier while running, I pulled dipstick and thought I saw gurgling from oil circulation, but not sure I have a suitable baseline.
Given all this, what would you guys do? I was considering:
- pull oil line at the tube filter to check for obstructions
- drain oil from case at the screen and check for obstructions
Thoughts?
Decided to drain and check oil, fittings, pipes, filters, etc.
1. Pulled sump filter, and only got maybe 2-3 ounces of oil from it; filter mesh was clean and clear of debris: this seems like too little oil left in the sump?
2. Pulled frame filter and fitting: more oil than the sump, filter mesh had lots of goo (I cleaned while I was removing/replacing things about a year ago), so goo was flushing out of frame, likely?
3. Pulled oil feed line connecting the frame filter and engine: a bit of oil and clear.
4. Pulled return hoses to frame resv and rocker box: clear and drained a bit of oil
5. Pushed wire into both frame resv and rocker box fitting ends: no obstructions
6. Pulled hose at frame return end: all clear up into frame and down to the return fitting
7. Pulled drain plug on back portion of the frame resv: got the most oil at one time from here, looked clean (reasonable since it was sitting in the back and doesn't move around much)?
Didn't find a smoking gun with the oil - no swarf in it, no visible aluminum, ran a magnet through it and found nothing)
Could be oil pump, but given it is gear driven I would expect something dramatic if sheared worm shaft, might even have flow enough to run at idle for awhile?
So, wanting to rule out an oil issue or internal damage since these are bad juju ... anything I'm missing?
What is next thoughts regarding overheating?
- Timing: when it fired it ran really well, and rev'd well until I noticed it heating up and then rough running started prior to shutting it down (less than a minute after I noticed the heat)?
- Fuel mixture: the plug looked like it was running really rich, but this isn't usually connected an overheating cause?
- Clutch drag: it was in neutral, but could still be? I checked adjustment and have a bit of play.
- Blown head gasket? No obvious leaks, but ...
Hi,
Have a look down the plug hole. What colour is the top of piston? With piston at BDC whast doe the bore look like?
Dave.
When you connected oil feed pipe from the reservoir to the engine , did you prime the oil pump and fill this pipe to ensure the supply gears in the pump were full of oil.
Gear pumps shift oil well but don't like air in the line
Dave - top of piston looks pretty darn clean right now. Borescope from a couple of months ago showed cross hatching intact and OK cylinder walls. And, it ran and revved really well yesterday, with little to no smoke.
ryhatt - I did not. Was not aware of this characteristic - certainly know of priming water pumps of different varieties, though. How does one prime it - pull timing side cover and remove the non-return valve plug, spring, ball, then (with new oil and clutch side sealed up) kick it over with compression release pulled, then ball, spring and cover back in?
Priming.
Remove oil feed pipe from reservoir and use an oil can pump type to fill this pipe and then continue pumping to get oil into the gears on the feed side.
Rotate engine a few times and keep pumping oil to ensure gears are filled.
Carefully reconnect feed pipe to oil tank and refill with correct amount.
Gear pumps have a habit of gravity dribbling oil through them creating wet sump , if you use your bike regularly , this keeps the engine oil in the tank
As far as scavenge side , pour a small amount into the rocker box , this will cover all the internal components to ensure oiled on start up
Just a thought, but have you double checked that the feed and return pipes are connected the correct way around?
I believe they should cross over under the motor on the later unit singles(?) unlike my B40 where they run parallel.
Great looking bike BTW trust you get it sorted soon.
Regards
rhyatt,
Trying to see the physics on this application. From static oil fill, the oil in the front tube requires sufficient suction from the oil pump to draw it through the pump (and the non return valve?), and into the engine, then drains to the sump where it is scavenged (one way scavenge valve?) via the "Y" fitting to (a) return to the frame resv, and (b) to the valves thence through pushrod tubes to the engine?
So, I'll pull the feed line from the nipple on the bottom of the frame filter, and squirt oil in the hose with intermittent kickovers - got it - thanks! (I would have thought the oil sitting in the front tube would be sufficient to prime given I had kicked it over so much - but I can see it maybe air locking even with the engine running, with no oil in the pump)
Not related to non return valve since it prevents oil from returning back towards the front tube? Not related to scavenge valve as it prevents oil from going back into the engine? Edit - think now understand the NRV prevents wet sumping? Mine must be ok since the resv is not draining through the NRV into the engine, filling sump as I had so little oil in the sump?
And, to the temp of the oil in frame - when I pulled the dipstick after shutting it down, the oil did not feel warm - how long would it need to run for the oil to be noticeably warmer than ambient? It ran for maybe 10 minutes, air temp about 24C.
Stubaker, thanks!
The returns are of different sizes on the "Y" fitting with the return hose to frame being larger diameter, and feed to valves being smaller.
It'll take a while for a new engine to scavenge back to the oil tank , hence throwing in some to start with , plus the benefit of splashing about internally.
Once feed gears are filled , they'll stay filled.
The gears won't move air , they won't suck , but they'll move a liquid easily
rhyatt,
I just edited my previous re operation of NRV ... it prevents wet sumping? Since there was so little oil in the sump, this is not related. I think I understand.
Once you've primed everything and got it running , check the oil return to the oil tank , the rockers take their supply from this side.
The oil returned will eventually become spits and spurts , part air part oil as the scavenge gears move twice as much oil , thereby keeping the sump empty.
Thanks, rhyatt.
Just checked with my neighbor - a bike mechanic, but more specializing in go fast stuff - Ducati, etc and his kids race flat track up to 450 cc class - he works with the owner (named Dink) of the shop (D&D Cycles in Pensacola) who does a lot of "vintage" bike work. Showed him the video of the start - he immediately said - "sounds like it isn't getting oil."
I'll reassemble all the lines filling them as I go, do the priming on the pump, refill, squirt oil in the rocker box, give it another shot and report back.
OK - "while I'm in there" time ...
While I was trying to get a new hose onto the feed line from front frame to engine, it became apparent I needed a better idea - the hose would collapse/tear prior to slipping onto the engine nipple. Started the sourcing exercise, but not clear I could locally get something that would not do the same as the oil hose I have.
So, consulted with Dink at D&D Cycles. We discussed heating the hose to form a better 90°, but then he mentioned the mods that so many do on the B50 - Dink used to flat track B50s. One of the mods might actually make this more logical. A line from the rear frame plug to a "T" fitting on the feed line nipple not only gets the oil from the unused oil area, but it means I can run hose from front frame straight back, eliminating the need to have a tight 90° radius.
Well, the plug is 3/8" UNF, and almost everything I have seen locally is NPT thread. Can order I think, but I wanted faster gratification - found a 3/8 NPT to 5/16 nipple in my collection of future useful fittings, rethreaded it to UNF, added a washer and reused the perfect seal on the plug. Seems to fit, point the right direction, and perhaps the brass fitting to steel female threads wil
l assist in sealing. The "T" should be easier to find :-)
Am I OK with this solution?
Certainly tight in there.
A thinner wall , maybe clear plastic , softer wall , might do.
Maybe clear thin wall fuel pipe.
Bearing in mind the original pipe is age hardened.
For the purposes of priming the oil pump etc , to see if the bike pumps oil round , just use a length of clear pipe connected to the pump inlet pipe, fill it up , kick over to draw oil in whilst pumping oil in , start it and see if it draws in visibly , all the time topping up with fresh oil
https://draganfly.co.uk/product-category/bsa/sparesparts-for-bsa-b50/air-filter-b50/
https://draganfly.co.uk/product-category/bsa/sparesparts-for-bsa-b50/gearchange/
28 is feed
25 is return (indicated by the smaller pipe to the rockers)
I don't know if these pics relate to your bike , but it may give you ideas
Looking again at your pics, particularly the union at the bottom of the reservoir where very little room.
Hair drier to warm the area and pipe , feed upwards from underneath, leaving bottom end free.
Get this on firmly and then just enough oil in the frame to dribble out of this pipe.
Already having oil can pumped oil into the feed stub under the crankcase.
This will minimise any air.
rhyatt,
The area between the rear frame reservoir plug (now the fitting to provide oil to the feed connection) and the fender looks sufficient to position the oil line - will sort how to smooth the turn forward while getting it under the engine. Installing a T provides the opportunity to eliminate the 90° turn in the feed line from the front frame - straight from the rear and straight from the front into the T. I think this is good news.
BTW, after my statement about being easier to find the T locally than the UNF threaded connector, I found ZERO 5/16" T fittings in my area - big box stores or auto parts. Probably missed some, but gave up and ordered online. Just need one, but could get "package deal" for three with nine hose clamps for $7 USD.
Was considering a filter for the rear feed line - I know some use filters and some don't - this seemed to be a suitable size, and can be easily cleaned, and perhaps the filtering material even replaced by less restrictive if it become an issue? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7H8YJB1/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B0D7H8YJB1&pd_rd_w=f4Xhe&content-id=amzn1.sym.f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_p=f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_r=GTN0HCQAJVGAZDJTW4MM&pd_rd_wg=S35FI&pd_rd_r=1fb719dd-dea0-4bfe-b571-d0ede8badb7f&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
Personally , I haven't bothered with oil filters.
These classic bikes nowadays , get more fiddle time , oil changes than they ever did in the 60s.
Wait - was going to edit my last - darn it - started reading more on where to filter - now confused! Should I filter between the rear frame feed and engine, or put the same filter I was going to use between engine and frame on the return side, instead? Gah ...
personally , if I was going to filter my engine oil, I would put it (like car mfrs do) in-between the reservoir and the oil pump.
others may prefer otherwise.
however, the usual Renault 5 size screw on filters need careful allocation of space (which you may be lacking).
the filter you attached in the last link was a fuel filter not oil filter by the way
The problem with fitting in the feed side is if they get clogged then you get no oil to the engine. I accept this may be unlikely but.... Norton put the filter on the return side of the Commando for a reason.
Quote from: iansoady on 28 Apr, 2025, 10:23 The problem with fitting in the feed side is if they get clogged then you get no oil to the engine. I accept this may be unlikely but.... Norton put the filter on the return side of the Commando for a reason.
50 odd years ago I'd just rebuilt my Road Rocket engine. New rebore and pistons, new bearings, reground shaft and new big end shells. Morgo filters were new then and I thought it would be a good idea to fit one. About 200 miles later the big ends failed. I'd foolishly fitted the filter in the feed side! An expensive mistake that'll never make again,
Hi,
Filters on cars set up quite different as they do not have pumped return to a tank but gravity to the sump. I suspect that he car filter is after the pump so that the oil is pushed through the filter rather than drawn. If the filter clogs/fails then the pump can can push oil through the release valve and so still provide oil to the crank.
On our BSAs it is very difficult to access the oil feed between the pump ( I know of one person who has done this) and the crank so we fit them on the return. The filter specified has a low resistance so that the return part of the pump can easily get the oil back to the tank.
Dave.
rhyatt,
Correct re the filter ... it is sized as a fuel filter. Couldn't find much info on best size filtration - this one is suppose fly 30 micron. But its overall size is appropriate.
Could I replace the integral filter material with a homemade mesh filter basket from bronze screen?
I believe paper filtration is best, but a gauze may be more convenient.
B3ar in mind the existing bsa filter is , I think , gauze.
Right - the frame tube filter is mesh (gauze) as is the sump strainer.
From looking at the filter advert, do ya think I could squeeze bronze mesh into a cone ... would it retain sufficiently?
Hi,
From your post it looks like you are considering putting a small fuel filter or other restriction in, what is for all intents and purposes, a gravity oil feed from the frame/tank to the engine. Unless specifically for fitting in a gravity fed system this filter will restrict the flow of oil. Any filter in the feed side would need to be either big enough or porous enough to have no restriction on the oil getting to the engine. Tread carefully with this idea.
Dave.
Personally , as already mentioned , I'd be just leaving it as original.
BSA knew what they were doing.
Also , we will look after our bikes much more these days than ever before.
Agree certainly re how much more often we change oil, etc - and, that oil is far superior.
The slight modification of pulling oil from both ends of the frame, seems reasonable, and simplifies some of the plumbing - I just received the "T" fitting and it seems to actually be 5/16" ... won't have to make the 90 degree turn 😎
So, IF you were going to install the filter, would you install on the return line to the from, or the feed from the rear frame swamp?
Hi,
On the return. Army B40s had a filter on the return.
We have three BSA twins with filters on the return and they have covered many thousands of miles. They have been run on full detergent 20/50 and have a magnetic plug in the sump plate.
Dave.
OK - thanks!
What are your thoughts, Dave, on the filter I have - would the 30 micron filter be OK to leave as is, or should I look for another filter? This one is a great size , color, and is easy to clean ... but if it won't work .., it won't work.
Good morning,
I would not use that filter anywhere in the oil system. I would say that it is too small and if it presents a restriction it could cause oil to build up in the sump.
The filter I am currently using is a Wix WL7101, most manufacturers make on to the same spec. I am not sure what the micron spec. is but it is what is used on several motorcycles.
I think that HD and Norton use this as do the various after market kits.
It is also the spec. for the Citroen RCV air cooled engine.
Google 'oil filter kit for BSA' and quite few come up.
The WD B40 filter is more compact and obviously met military spec. but they not too easy to find.
Dave.
So, looks like I'll give up on this filter solution.
I was looking only to strain as much as the gauze does in the front frame, or the sump gauze does.
The bike will get little usage when complete, and assuming it is consistently rideable, there will be a lot of oil changes, especially in the early days.
OK - so, skipped filter and now attempting to add feed from the after portion of the frame using a T ...
While the T allows a straight in for the front frame feed, there is so little clearance anywhere. The feed line to the engine, when in the normal position looks like the photos ... I think I can make it work - but this requires bending the back edge of the bash plate so that I can get the plate into position.
I tried to reposition the engine feed fitting to face more upwards, but it won't rotate that far - rather than looking like the parts book, it appears to be a flare end of some sort that has a outside thread into the engine. It looks stock.
The feed from the back of the frame seems to clear the exhaust pipe sufficiently.
As it is I will need to wire tie (I have velcro temporary ties on it in the photo) to hold it hard against the frame - and, like I said the after edge of the bash plate hits the hose just enough to preclude the keepers on the plate to slip over the bolts - so bending it in that area would likely work. I just don't like the look of it all.
Would appreciate some stick and rudder!
So, still seeking assistance - last post was re installing feed oil T under the frame.
I have seen photo of one other with T, but it was with what I think is an extended oil line from feed pipe pushed up between the timing case side and the frame - so, it looks pretty much the same but on top of the frame, vs under. I don't like the look of either.
In a perfect world, I would decrease the radius on the feed pipe and build a copper line feed, with a brazed T that would solve the clearance issue, maybe even allowing some bending to simply fit better below the engine, with the pipe running forward about 8" long turning up a bit, and the pipe running aft turning up more.
Here's a fellow setting up some copper lines - something like this level of work, but with a T?
OK - so just moved the T to above the frame - still don't like it as the oil hose just has a lot of tension on it between the oil feed into the engine and the T ... also the hose, T and clamps lay against the frame and lower timing cover. Maybe different style clamps would be helpful. If I used spring clamps would there be tension enough on the hose to feed pipe (no barbs)?
Would be interesting if the feed pipe could be bent in position - looks like need to pull engine to remove the pipe, right?
Hi,
Is there room to accommodate a 'Y' rather than a 'T'?
If it was large enough to slide over the engine oil union it could be made a bit shorter and perhaps soldered on. The oil feed pipe would still be able to be pushed on.
From what I can see this could allow the pipe to be behind the frame and the 'Y' may be better for oil flow.
Dave.
Hi Dave,
A Y like that might be more difficult - the oil pipe itself sweeps with a large radius, then has a extended tube for the oil line - combined with any standard fitting, there just isn't much room to fit anything. And, it looks like the feed pipe cannot be removed to be modified with at least partially pulling the engine.
If the inlet pipe could be bent upwards and the tube shortened, perhaps a shortened T fitting, maybe bent up on one end ... sheesh ... better would include fab of a smaller diameter T with bendable line stubs to get the connections to hoses out from under the engine. Something out of copper brazed to copper/bronze fitting?
Hi,
You probably know that there is a range of 5/16 bore copper pipe fittings available. Perhaps playing with a selection of 90º and 45º angles may help to formulate a better arrangement.
Dave.
Yeah - haven't seen small diameter soft copper fittings - I may not know what I'm thinking about. Have seen extraordinary devices in the aerospace world (satellites, rocket motors, etc) - probably need to find some small brass/bronze Ts and experiment a bit.
Others must have been through this when setting up to feed from the rear of the frame in addition to the front?
Different topic - here's a photo of my clutch - are the springs at about the right height? Still have to wire the adjusting screws.
I'm going to keep posting - hoping for kind souls to comment!
So, simply did not like the look of the oil feed T above the frame. Agonized over trying to improve fit below - decided to shorten the side to the T going into the engine feed pipe a bit - half of the barbs - in order to move the T further towards the engine - hope it holds. Then cut the bash plate a bit to get sufficient clearance to be able to install it - the T clamps rest against it, but I can install the plate. Hated doing this, but it just looked so bad above the frame.
Attaching photos of installed - will continue to futz with it to improve look. While the oil hose to the rear of the frame will hang below the frame crossmember, it should generally be clear of road debris? I don't think there is room to put a 90° on it ... a T with a 90° turning up would be perfect :-)
Thoughts?
looks neat enough every time i start my bike i check the oil return
Thanks, rhyatt.
Off the beaten path ... stumbled on several threads re advisability of using alloy float valve needle vs brass ... mine is still brass ... worth swapping? Would wait until I had it running, again, though.
As long as the float needle has the viton tip.
It does - and, the thing ran so well - prior to me shutting it off to investigate what I think was lack of oil flow - hesitant to change anything right now.
Update on center stand!
OIF Triumph stand appears to work perfectly - had tried the BSA part (83-3170), was new build - was so touchy it would roll off even pushed with one finger.
Read lots on here and other places that the OIF Triumph 83-2627 center stand worked well. Contacted The Bonneville Shop in US - fellow said had not heard of it, but since they had good prices, I bought it.
Photos should show perfect fit and stance - front tire touching but can turn the bar with some effort, and rear tire is about 2.5" off the floor.
All looks splendid.
Central stand looks perfect fit.
All so clean like surgeons room.
When I grow up I wanna be You.
Inspiring indeed.
Looking forward to see it running.
Dan
Thanks, Dan.
Forced holiday with wife, so starting to itch to get back to it.
Do most folks with center stands remove the side stand? Given the ease of getting it on the center stand, I don't see much need for the side?