Just need some clarification here regarding the valve lifter operation.
My bike has no choke by the way.So fuel on, a little tickle and away we go?
question is.
Does the valve lifter need to be pulled throughout the final kick after getting to TDC,or released just after getting to TDC, before the final kick
I keep reading conflicting ideas,
I have started it by releasing the valve lifter just before final kick, (this was after it nearly took my leg off) but have no idea if im doing right or wrong.
If any one can explain the procedure, I and my leg will be eternally grateful
TIA
Mark
Find compression, pull decomp lever, ease over TDC, drop decomp lever and then a long swinging kick.
{This doesn't work for Velocettes ;D }
Hi Mark, Just pull the lifter to slowly get to, and stop at TDC. Then release the lifter. Then give one big kick right beyond the bottom of the kick-starter swing. Hopefully it starts..!
If it has advance and retard, make sure it is fully retarded, to avoid kick back.
Quote from: V500 on 12 Feb, 2025, 09:36 Find compression, pull decomp lever, ease over TDC, drop decomp lever and then a long swinging kick.
{This doesn't work for Velocettes ;D }
It worked for my Venom, far better than the "correct" way. Maybe I was lucky. Just to add one thing to the above advice: keep the throttle almost completely closed and certainly don't twist it this way and that.
Quote from: scifi on 12 Feb, 2025, 09:41 If it has advance and retard, make sure it is fully retarded, to avoid kick back.
Not always "all the way" to full retard. Some won't run in this position, but definitely
some retard. How much comes with trial and error by the owner.
If it has the correct ignition setup for a pre-unit single built from around 1958 onwards, it'll be battery and coil rather than a Mag, so should be auto advance and retard, but it may be prudent to check ignition timing anyway.
Not sure if i have missled the group due to my lack of info/knowledge
The bike has retard/advance lever, no choke, no ignition switch.
seems to be just kick and go?
i doubt its anywhere near what it should be, but it does run, I have not been on the road as yet though
Definitely a manual mag fitted.
You have a tight advance Magneto there Mark. So to retard the igniton for starting you should push the lever towards the front of the bike, then when running pull it back towards you to advance. I always prefer the slack advance type as this seems more logical to me. I start my bikes with some ignition retard, then move it to full advance and leave it there until I need to start the bike again. HTH
Huge thanks to all so far for the help given,
every little bit of info i get is another step forward.and adding to my zero knowledge.
many thanks
Mark
The way I think about it is that you want to get maximum momentum into the flywheel when you are kicking over before the piston gets to tdc on the compression stroke. So when you start to kick you want the piston to be just past compression. You are simply using the vakve lifter to enable you to just get the piston beyond compression without having to heave so hard on the kick starter that by the time you've gone over compression you've moved the piston/flywheel too far.
I hope my poor explanation makes some sense!
It can also be useful to prime the engine with a full swing of the kickstart with decompressor pulled in, before the nudge over tdc. This is a technique pretty much mandatory with a Gold Star type engine (at least with mine!)
Oh and btw your bike looks more like a 54-55 with half width hubs and magdyno.
#11
Yes it says on the V5 rebuilt, assembled using parts etc.
Not quite sure how to find out exactly what I have at the moment
Frame and engine numbers match V5
The frame looks like a late pattern one. It has the wide headstock wrapper and 4 cast lugs on the front down tubes. The 4 cast lug frames came in in early 1962. If the V5C says "rebuilt.. etc.." it have have a DVLA issued VIN (frame) number?