Is there a knack to pulling out the bullets? Any tips. Only option seems to be tug on the wires. I've tried some WD40 & warming the connector, but fear that tugging any harder will just mean the probably 40 year old copper wires will just snap....or some will.
I was thinking maybe I needed to dremel away the connector tube, but I'm not sure if it is 2 bullets into a tube, or whether it is crimped into a female connector at the LH end( I can see into the LH end and the bare wire goes a fair way before a constriction, where at the RH end sheathing buts righ to the copper in pic. But, I've no idea if that's the bullet or tube copper showing !)
Cut the rubber off and dismantle it.
that looks ,to me, to be shrink wrap. as cds says remove it. has the ends turned over a bit?
i have a little pokey thing,not sure what you'd call it, that i would ease the ends out with but it doesn't look like that sleeve is worth worrying about.
any problems use a lump hammer and a 4 inch bolster chisel. that removes most stuff givng trouble
That rubber grommet leading into the crankcase looks to be nearing extinction. So you don't have much free wire to start cutting things apart. Best of luck..
The connector should consist of two bullet connectors - one on each wire end - and a insulated metal "tube" that they are pushed into. Its not actually a tube, it is a rolled piece of metal with a longitudinal gap. It acts like a sprung clamp to hold the two bullets. It often oxidises and is next to impossible to extract without violence.
In this case the violence needed is relatively simple - and it only involves destroying the tube connector. These should be available as a new item and can be replaced. The rubber insulation can usually be cut from the tube with a sharp Stanley or scalpel blade. Once a suitable incision has been made from one end to t'other, the rubber can be pealed off to reveal the metal clamp tube. It is usually possible to stick a small screwdriver or pointed tool into the crack in the tube and lever it apart - for example put driver blade in flat and rotate to push sides apart. That will usually break any corrosion holding the bullet and release it with a bit of gentle manipulation.
If that doesn't move it then hold the tube one side of the centre with some pliers, put the small screwdriver (etc.) into the central area and using the pliers as a fulcrum point, lever the other bullet out. That way you just exert pressure on the face of bullet and not on the wire. Repeat for other side. Buy new connector.
If you want a quick fix for using the old connector tube "because you are stuck in the wilderness" then clean all surfaces with fine sandpaper including the insides of the tube and lightly grease all. Adjust the shape of the tube in case it was malformed during extraction. Stick it back together and tape it up securely. Or if you have some, use shrink wrap. That is a bit of a one way repair until you obtain a new tube.
If none of that works then you must use a cutting tool (Dremel? but I have used a hacksaw elsewhere) to cut the tube in half and prize off the remains of the tube from the bullets. Best to remove the rubber insulation first so you can find the right place/gap between the bullets
Good luck.
Good advice. I find that many bullet sleeves now available are far too loose on original bullets so need a bit of tweaking to make sure they stay connected. I recently spent a frutrating hour trying to track down a fault only to find it was a bullet that had escaped its sleeve inside the headlamp.
Many thanks all. With this advice and the good access, it was easy.
Just for the record: used a 'dremel' and small cutting wheel to remove connector plastic sheathing, whilst holding along finger of a thick leather glove. Then used my favorite dissection kit cutty/prizey thing to lever the metal of connector open a bit....and push bullets out.
Bullets are soldered and all strands of both wires appear intact. RESULT.
(The LH bullet is not as well done with the pvc not quite reaching the bullet and a nice space for water to get in to bare wire. Is this an issue at all. I guess it may hold some water when it gets wet, but it's not going to be touching anything to direct current)
Shall probably get some bits and pieces now (from Feked) including a new LT lead grommet, and will add a few bullet connectors.
those cutty cutty prizey things are a godsend to us high end engineering chaps. many people have them but not many know how to use them. the secret is safe with me
Yeay! \0/ Nice when it works.
Looking at the end of the soldered bullet connectors, I would recommend removing the excess solder and wire protruding from the end of the bullet. That excess will prevent the bullet from correctly seating in the tube when pushed in. Its not a big problem but the more metal that is in contact - the better the connection.
Noted. Will do so and clean bullets when grommet and replacement connector tube arrive..
( In due course, will select the appropriate pushy squeezy tools to put the bullets back in....having found various post online on that.....and have noted that a tight fit is needed....so tube may need some prior squeezing)
a bikeshop around here will NOT touch a motorcycle that has bullets, not even to pump up a tyre, full stop.
unless it is to cut them out and ceremoniously burn them.
the biggest cause of electrical faults apparently
i visited there once and ordered a list of spares as ling as your arm, then, i asked for 10 of each male and female bullets. did he go ballistic at me or what?
have to say though, he is right about them
I can't agree Bob, if correctly fitted they're fine. Any so-called bike shop that refused in that way would certainly not get my custom again. Mind you I can't remember the last time I ever took a bike in for any work. It was probably the Triumph Tiger 955i which I tool back under warranty and they just made matters worse - introducing brand new faults!
have to say they aren't my favs. i use blade types. much better contact and easy to tweek to be tight with a capital T.
as for the guy in the bike shop. he has forgotten more than me you and everyone we know has ever known and are likely to learn in the future
I think the real problem with bullets is a bad crimp connection. On the recent electrical equipment I bought for my B25 rebuild about 15% of the bullet connectors were loose. One on the alternator fell off when I pulled it back through the case grommet. If soldered they usually work well. The main problem with soldering is the melting and receding insulation - and the fact its a pain to redo a job you've, in essence, already paid for.
I have tried many types of connectors over the years to repair or improve my wiring. IMHO double crimp spade connectors seem most useful. I mean the type that bends the sides over and then down cutting into the middle of the wire. Having done enough house wiring I am beginning to wonder if using WEGO connectors and shrink wrap wouldn't be better.
I only use japanese type connectors now. Reliabilty is more important than originality to me.
Hi,
If you rewire your bike yourself leave out any connector that is not necessary e.g. run a continuous wire from the switch in the headlight to the tail light. Do this wherever possible and the number of connectors in the harness will be reduced.
Dave.
Good in theory but not so good if you need to remove the rear light or rear mudguard.
Connectors (done correctly) aren't a problem.
I use bullets on original machines. A dab of solder on the end is useful (do not overheat or let solder wick down the wire as it causes a weak spot where wires can fracture). I use dielectric switch grease to minimise water ingress. Helps minimise dodgy high resistance joints on bikes and my Landrover.
There is little doubt that the tightly crimped Japanese style with flexible clear insulation works well and keeps water out.
Hi MadPete.. The real problem with bullet connectors is the first time they get wet; Either by a rain squall or following an HGV splashing though puddles. The dampness causes a galvanic action between the tube and the bullets, and in 6 months the whole thing is a corroded mess, and a high resistant joint.
Six months? Someone can't have been doing it right..
Interesting reading all this. I have never had problems with bullet connectors.
Quote from: neil1964 on 19 Jan, 2025, 09:27 There is little doubt that the tightly crimped Japanese style with flexible clear insulation works well and keeps water out.
But it will get in eventually and then the same problems occur. Many times I've struggled with corroded connectors on Japanese bikes although I confess to using them on occasion. But soldered not criomped.
Whilst looking for best tools to put bullets back in.....it occurred to me that rather than use the supplied sheath a longer piece of heartshrink might be better ?....
Easier to push bullets in without sheath in place. Could put a little heat resistant dielectric grease on the bullet/ pvc coat junction where I have bare wire....slide over the heat shrink 5mm longer either side and shrink in.
Downside I guess is at any later removal the the heatshrink over the pvc will be a be harder to remove.
I have a tool I got from an autojumble years ago which is specifically designed to push the bullets into the sleeves although it's awkward to line up sometimes. Like this one although I had to add the handle comforters myself and I certainly didn't pay £20 for mine.
https://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_535_551&products_id=1860
Quote from: iansoady on 19 Jan, 2025, 15:48 I have a tool I got from an autojumble years ago which is specifically designed to push the bullets into the sleeves although it's awkward to line up sometimes. Like this one although I had to add the handle comforters myself and I certainly didn't pay £20 for mine.
https://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_535_551&products_id=1860
I'd seen such a tool on sale before, so hoping it was cheaper I found it and checked the price: nearly £45! I'm not going to link to that one, but it's a crude device that many of us could make for very little.
You probably don't want to hear this - but I always fit new electrical cables to old bikes. Black wire corrosion can set in deep within the loom and causes endless problems. So the whole loom goes in the bin and I start again.