I need to change the perished grommet/boot for the LT lead, where it exits via the 'cutout' in the inner timing case/outer timing cover (and whilst doing that check the kick-start parts, and change the kick-start oil seal)
I can't quite work out if when I take the outer cover off ( after removing the points) whether the LT lead will then be essentially free and the new grommet/boot can be slid up the wire from the points end ?
(I can see where the wire exits the points area........but is the wire just passing though a notch in the inner case, with the outer case covering/holding it? or does it pass through a complete hole. If the later I am fearing that it won't pull through so I will have to break the wire somewhere? )
The L/T lead to the points should have a bullet connector on it outside the engine, That's the best place to disconnect it to change the grommet rather than disturbing the connection inside the points housing. It should be possible to pull the old grommet out of the casing and along the wire then fit the new grommet along the wire and persuade it into the D shaped hole in the inner cover - without removing the outer cover.
and...to my embarrassment.....underneath many winds of electrical tape that I put on some 15 yrs ago there is a bullet connector....which I shall see if I can undo without it breaking.
There is a small amount of green fail looking tarnished bare wire either side. My battery lead terminals are crimped on to similarly frail and tarnished wire. Should such connectors/terminals really be soldered on ? & should any bare wire really be sealed/siliconed ?
Personally I would always solder bullet connectors onto wires and not rely on crimped electrical connections, especially on tarnished wire. The wires will need to be cleaned first to allow successful soldering and any bare portions insulated with heat-shrink tube.