Hi All,
I am member of a couple of other British bike fora - but, just found your forum - great stuff!
Background - I bought a used 1972 BSA 500 (B50SS) from a dealer in Texas, generally stock but had a rebuilt engine (owner did not return to pay for the rebuild). Rode it for a couple of years, then got busy flying airplanes in the USN. Fast forward - started the rebuild process when I stopped working a few years ago. Had lots of distractions so just now getting it back together.
Frame is stock paint, had the bring stuff repainted about a year ago - never liked the Hi Violet, so had it done in 1971 livery.
Replacing the Zener diode and selenium rectifier with Podtronics. Replacing point/condenser with Boyer Bransden EI. I have not rebuilt the engine, as it was fine when I last rode it in 1981/1982.
Current issues:
- Where to put the Podtronics R/R? Would prefer to fit into the aluminum electric box - should be able make it fit along with the BB and the coil (BB under the coil) - will it stay cool enough?
- Front tires I bought for replacing had dry rotted. Got a 4.00-18 for the rear and fits OK. 4.00-18 definitely won't fit the front fender. Will a 3.50-18?
Lots more to follow, I hope.
Thanks!
https://imgur.com/a/u5fAVQn
(https://imgur.com/a/u5fAVQn)
This is the electric box with Podtronics and BB (under the coil).
Trying to post photo via imgur.
https://imgur.com/a/QWTOXlj
BTW, B50s never had selenium diodes, they had the Lucas 12v silicon diodes fitted to the rest of the range. Will read with interest your experience of the Boyer ignition and Podtronmcs rectifier/regulator. My B50T ran the std zener and rectifier and never gave a problem and even worked on the big old capacitor until taken off the road (by then in SS trim) for a rebuild. I am slowly getting a B44 with several B50 internals back on the road and am using the Wassel ignition and regulator as it is superbly finished and rugged - some gripes read online about these but good to hear your experience with your combination of electrics.
Looking good in present build (agree on the colour).
What make/type of tyre on back?
Personally don't like too fat a tyre on the front, but of course depends on type.
Sorry, All - here it is 2026. No excuses, just failed to post on the various locations .... my bad.
So, after fighting with the various subsystems on the bike:
- frame not repainted (black)
- most curious was the carb was from a 1967/68 441 but had two stroke internals - replaced float, float needle, main jet holder, main jet (was 200, now 220), pilot jet (not bushed and had 25, now 30 per Amal/Burlen email), tickler with shrouded, mixture and slide screws, slide, and slide needle
- Podtronics working fine with R/R bolted underside of the battery tray
- BB ignition fine with box wrapped part in foam in original aluminum box
- swapped resistor cap for non resistor so could use NGK Iridium resistor plug
- original Lucas coil still ohms out in spec
- tires now 4.00 rear and 3.25 front
- zillions of bits and pieces replaced
- lots of inside tank cleaning and pretty good now
- directional lights front and rear
- lighting - all works, but errr, not right (left bar has two position paddle (middle and up) which works fine for low and high, but top button only flashes on high, horn works fine on lower button - inside looks same as the right side switch - same color wires, too - so more to sort. Right side is turn signal and kill switch - both work. The green warning lamp works when high beam selected at paddle, the amber lamp works when turn signals active, the red lamp not at all since no oil pressure sensor and I did not want to look at the red light all the time the engine was running. Have some more work to do - I rebuilt the switches with new paddles and buttons, but may swap out the switches to get it to "original" (even thought there is significant discussion re what this actually was ...
- I have three position ignition switch so this sounds like it has been swapped out at some point (Center Off, CCW (forward) daylight without headlight, CW (rear) night time with headlight, and probably reason the pilot light only working with night time ignition position
- seat recovered with aftermarket BSA cover (was in good shape otherwise)
- Clutch plates and springs replaced
- Both drive gears replaced
- Chain replaced
- All cables
- Lots of polishing
- Valves set - to book, but my sense is gap needs to be less than book
OK - so a lot more that is probably too boring, but I got is running and will even idle - at this point is a 1-2 kick starter. Before riding I've dropped it at the local shop owned by a formed B50 owner/racer - Dink or D&D Cycles in Pensacola. Mainly to get ignition timing set and for him to listen and evaluate.
Need to find a museum somewhere to take it to!