Hi
Not done this before.
I need to remove head & cylinder from my 1960 B33. It's done 16K since rebore and new piston.
Clutching at 'hopeful straws that not required' do you think it will require a rebore/piston?
Reason for removal of head is I believe I have a weak exhaust valve spring as it nips up when warm. so new valves/guides/springs.
Cylinder off to lap head.
Can I also ask your advice on what piston ring compressor tool to use & diameter. Link to where to purchase would help please
Thank you
Assuming regular oil changes, good quality piston and rings, decent machinist it should be nicely run in!
Are you burning oil? Is power down (when your valve is not nipping up - odd problem in isolation)?
My fingers are my piston ring compressor using two pieces if 20mm wood between piston and crankcase to support piston.
Thanks Neil. Changed oil every year rather than mileage. Engine rebuilt 1998. This will be 2nd time head has been off and it's always found to be a very weak exhaust valve springs. in early days from rebuild exhaust valve nipping up & pushrod jumping off was a constant problem. Cause thought to be overheating so everything set to factory settings. Up until recent ride out it's been fine. However it's now staring to make a noise I've become familiar with when it's about to happen - low revs usually. At last head rebuild I had the exhaust guide reamed out a bit to help with problem. Now smokes a bit
Other B33 owners have also experienced this problem without finding as far as I know a definitive answer/cure
Why not have the valve guides k lined. Then you will at least have a decent oil supply to help the valve.
I have had my B33 about 50 years only had the problem once after fitting new guides. This caused the exhaust valve to stick. Once it freed off it never did it again. Whose springs are you using?
Quote from: cdsdorset2 on 16 Sep, 2024, 22:28
Why not have the valve guides k lined. Then you will at least have a decent oil supply to help the valve.
I've not heard of k-lined are they off the shelf or bespoke? From where? Thank you
Quote from: idie on 16 Sep, 2024, 22:49
I have had my B33 about 50 years only had the problem once after fitting new guides. This caused the exhaust valve to stick. Once it freed off it never did it again. Whose springs are you using?
I'm gathering information and tips from this forum/service sheets before strip down. Please advise spring supplier + any other advice. Thank you
Quote from: RichardAB on 17 Sep, 2024, 04:43
Quote from: idie on 16 Sep, 2024, 22:49
I have had my B33 about 50 years only had the problem once after fitting new guides. This caused the exhaust valve to stick. Once it freed off it never did it again. Whose springs are you using?
I'm gathering information and tips from this forum/service sheets before strip down. Please advise spring supplier + any other advice. Thank you
You need a machine shop to fit K liners, they are very thin and your valve guide can be reamed out , these are then fitted and size is set using carbide balls pushed through pneumaticly then the ends get trimmed because the material gets swaged out . I have found the stock terrys spring to be quite weak i dont think it would be too difficult to cange these with the head on , rope in cylinder, etc rig something to lever spring retainer down .
Thank you
Quote from: RichardAB on 16 Sep, 2024, 19:13
Hi
Not done this before.
I need to remove head & cylinder from my 1960 B33. It's done 16K since rebore and new piston.
Clutching at 'hopeful straws that not required' do you think it will require a rebore/piston?
Reason for removal of head is I believe I have a weak exhaust valve spring as it nips up when warm. so new valves/guides/springs.
Cylinder off to lap head.
Can I also ask your advice on what piston ring compressor tool to use & diameter. Link to where to purchase would help please
Thank you
My 54 b33 started doing this , the reason for mine was that the rocker spindle banjo bolts , had .025" feed holes original is .044" from what I read , I had it apart and I had tried to align the groove in the rocker spindle so that as it went through its valve lift the oil hole in the rocker would be uncovered supplying much needed oil to the valve stem and cooling the spring, I didn't get it quite right , but have now and I've looked at pictures of the small hole banjo bolts 65-0317 and they all look to have a bigger hole than mine , I think the previous owner made them , I've now drilled them to .040" , checked oil flow by putting finger over oil tank discharge .
Thank you for advice. I've not yet started to strip bike but before I do I'll look at feeds with rocker covers off. I think I recall one feed bolt is designed to be bigger than the other
Just set the rocker to have valve clearance and tap out the rocker spindle , I think the oil groove should align at some point in the valve lift , and just make sure your banjo bolt oil hole is around .044 " . I've just got back from a decent ride , no breakdowns this time ! Still have compression , Cheers.
K liners have to be fitted by an engineering shop. Depending whete you are. I have used t&l in Bedford and saunders engineering in Hampshire. Have a search online.
Quote from: Bigsingle on 27 Sep, 2024, 00:59
Just set the rocker to have valve clearance and tap out the rocker spindle , I think the oil groove should align at some point in the valve lift , and just make sure your banjo bolt oil hole is around .044 " . I've just got back from a decent ride , no breakdowns this time ! Still have compression , Cheers.
I'll give it a go, thanks
Quote from: cdsdorset2 on 27 Sep, 2024, 12:58
K liners have to be fitted by an engineering shop. Depending whete you are. I have used t&l in Bedford and saunders engineering in Hampshire. Have a search online.
Thank you. I'll have a look round