My biting point on my clutch is a long way from the bars and sometimes slips after changing gear quickly.
Adjusting the adjuster on the cable by the hear box only adds more free-play to the lever.
Ate removed the clutch plates and the friction plates have around 3.95mm (total thickness , including both wear surfaces and their barrier / backing plate)
Is the problem that there's not enough material left and I need new friction plates?
Or is there another way to adjust?
I'd like the biting point to be much closer to my bars.
Hi Fraz, have you adjusted the clearance of the arm inside the gearbox oil cap?
Also - how's the bike going with the Thorspark?
Hi.
I didn't know there was another adjuster?
How would I set that up to make the bite point closer to my bars?
I'd just assumed that my plates were worn.
It's running well with the electronic ignition, not done it's cutting out thing - though I've not had much chance to ride it, when I have, it's much more reliable.
So there are two adjustments. The cable length and the clearance between the arm and the clutch pushrod. If you take the gearbox oil filler cap off you'll see it. Perhaps it needs to be wound out a bit. There is a locknut to undo and then you adjust it with a screwdriver. It should have a slight clearance when the clutch lever is out.
Sorry but I can't understand what you want to achieve.
Do you want the bite point to be 1 inch from the bars (you got small hands..?).. That would mean you have about 3 inches of slack lever. The normal amount of slack lever is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the lever end. This is to ensure there is no cable tension when the clutch is engaged.
If the clutch is slipping, can you add some more turns to the spring adjusters..?
As for the clutch plates being worn... you have not worn out the makers name yet..!
Thanks for your response.
Your point that the makers name hasn't been worn out, is a good indication that it's not the plates that have worn out - so that's good news.
I'm used to a clutch biting point about 2" from the bars, that I can operate with two fingers (like my friend's Matchless) and there being no slip when changing quickly going up a steep hill (for instance)
What does the adjuster behind the oil filler car do (in real world terms, to my bite point?)
And what would tightening down the clutch basket nuts some more achieve, relative to clutch lever bite point please?
Many thanks
The only problem with tightening the springs too much is that they may bottom out, when you pull in the clutch. Also it will require more force on the lever, but usually no problem.. The springs need to be matched in tension, so as to lift the friction plates squarely.
The lever on the end of the clutch push-rod should push the rod perpendicular to the rod, for maximum effect, and not be just pushing the rod sideways. The screw and nut at the centre of the clutch plate will allow this adjustment of the clutch rod lever to be made.
It is all too easy to bottom out any of the adjustment points, which will give you a false feeling at the clutch lever.