I noticed a leak on my fuel tap this morning, so I tightened the fitting up only to find that the output from the tap is pointing right at the cylinder.
Really I want to turn the tap around by a full 180 degrees. I am guessing that the best way to achieve this might be to take out the steel and rubber washer and replace with copper crush washers which I can file down to the necessary thickness to put the valve output in the right position.
However, before I order, does anyone have any thoughts?
Ian
Wrap some ptfe tape round it?
If you have some wrap some around the threads near the washers. Put it on so that as you wind the tap in to the tank the tape will get tighter not looser. This is assuming it won't block the outlet. No idea what your tap looks like.
You might find you need to build it up over a couple of attempts to get it where you want it.
Trusting that PTFE isn't petrol soluble?
Acutally most of the paint on my bike DOES appear to be soluble in petrol!
Should be fine. You can always come up with another solution later if you're not comfortable with it. Many of the fibre and copper washers on my bikes are backed up with a few wraps of PTFE to help them seal.
I gave it a go with the PTFE but it would have needed quite a few turns. Here is a photo.
Change the tap for a one that vents out the bottom.
Wouldn't the lever still be pointing the wrong way?
PTFE tape is good, as are red fibre washers (soaked in petrol or oil overnight to soften) or Dowty washers. Just a case of trial and error to get it ending up facing the right way.
You get a loos nut at the top so you can position the lever anywere.
Got mine off ebay.
Why don't you just reduce the thickness of the fibre washer using a piece of emery paper on a bit of plate glass? Or fit a shim between washer and tap to get the correct orientation?
If the fibre washer leaks, and it probably will, use a douty washer, although they're a bit thick, like me.
Well. I was hoping that a copper washer would act as a shim. I could easily file it down and they crush to make a good seal. But I might have to replace the steel and rubber washer which is already on there. I don't know that the two would work together.
I am wondering if the tap I have has an adjustment screw on it. If so it is gummed and glued up. Maybe you can see on the photo.
More rapid investigation this morning. I actually have a 1/2" valve which screws into an adaptor of around 5/8". I reckon I can put a couple of copper washers between the valve and adaptor and keep the steel and rubber washer on the 5/8" side.
However I am tempted to completely replace the tap with one which has the outlet on the bottom, but also includes the reserve position and a strainer in the tank. Then, maybe I can bin the ugly fuel filter.
And you get a better fuel flow in a straight line.
I arrived back from holiday to find the copper washers on the doorstep. It's lucky my house is well back from the road. You gotta love Amazon.
Anyway a stack of washers either side of the adaptor, plus some PTFE tape did the job nicely. The taps points in the right direction. No signs of leaks this morning. I just hope it doesn't get picked up at the MOT station, if I decide to get it MOT'd. Technically it is exempt I know.
What problems would you anticipate with the fuel tap at the MoT then? Did you anneal those copper washers before use?
Whoops! I didn't think of annealing them. .... But should I need to if they are brand new?
I've heard stories of modern day MOT centres who expect all seals to be modern synthetic rubbers, for instance vintage filler caps which are brass on brass.
Yes you should as the stamping process itself cause work -hardening, plus they may have been sitting around for a while.
I must admit I wouldn't use copper washers for fuel taps, but if it's worked for you then fair enough.