I read somewhere, at some point, that this used to be done?
I'm thinking of doing this as it may help ensure all the airways on my old concentric are as clean as they can be. I presume I strip it down and don't boil the float. I have a losd of water soluble degreaser and was thinking of using that.
( I'm not intending to buy a ultrasonic cleaner, as I'm trying to minimise buying stuff that will only get used occassionally)
So is this an OK approach....or daft? Any tips? e.g. how long to boil.
( previously I've carb cleaner, pipecleaners, compressed air from foot pump with football inflator valve.....and a strand of bicycle cable in jets. Would probably do all these again before and after boiling)
I usually soak my carbs overnight in vinegar, seems to work (don't leave too long or there'll be nothing left!)
Boiling in washing powder is definitely a thing though, not sure how long for, I'd start at around 15/30 minutes.
Hi,
The small pinhole air and fuel passageways are notoriously difficult to get clean. I would combine all of these cleaning methods with the blast of an airline in both directions. Use carb cleaner as well as you can see this coming out of the holes if they are clear but do it several times to reduce the chance leaving them only partially clean.
Dave.
I drown in carb cleaner - seems to work for me and then blow through with compressed air.
Some people quote specific drill sizes for the pilot holes that are particularly prone to blockage
I wounder if boiling in detergent might result in that powdery oxidation you sometimes see on those pot metal parts (Mazak?)?
Hi,
I think washing up liquid would be OK as it is skin friendly up to a point. I would be wary of harsh detergents that have any caustic element to them. I have cleaned cases in the dish washer and they come out great but need a good extra rinse to make sure they are free of any remaining salts especially in the oil ways etc.
I doubt that a dishwasher would get in to the small passageways in a carb. so finishing off with carb cleaner and good air pressure is always a good idea.
Dave.
Wotcha.
I've always given my carbs a good boiling.
Certainly does the job, and I've had no problems ( so far )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEqtc0ajXSE
Quote from: Lone Wolf on 04 Apr, 2024, 15:09
Wotcha.
I've always given my carbs a good boiling.
Certainly does the job, and I've had no problems ( so far )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEqtc0ajXSE
Thanks...Is that just in water ?
I read somewhere about boiling in a solution of water with bicarbonate of soda. I did this and completely ruined the carb as when I dried it out and blew air through the tubes, it seemed to get filled with some sort of jelly!! I made a right pigs ear of the job, so I bought a new carb from Amal, a 276 to fit the older iron head and this solved the fuel starvation problem but it's an expensive way to solve a simple problem. Other suggestions in this thread are a better bet so whatever you do, DON'T use bicarb. Also when tightening the bolts NEVER over tighten. I think the torque is 4lbs per square inch so this is not much more than finger tight. That was another mistake i made and the carb bit where the 2 nuts fit onto the barrel warped.
Bicarbonate of soda is slightly alkaline and will react with the zinc alloy that the carbs are made of. Which is probably why they ended up with the passageways blocked.