Im considering fitting some lights to my road registered 1960 C15T. It has none at present and the only electrics on the bike are in the battery less ignition circuit-
Modified Lucas alternator to give 12v
Lucas rectifier
Zener diode
Lucas capacitor
Points
Coil
Plug
I'm currently re-wiring this lot as it was a corroded mess. I'm considering adding head and tail lights. Is this doable with a battery less system like this? I don't want to fit a battery and I don't want to fit electronic ignition. I have a much better chance of understanding and fault finding the current system. I don't want a box of tricks so please don't suggest it! Would LED bulbs work?
Thanks
Don't boyer bransden offer a box that is a reg rec , but also has a delay in it to power lights?
I remember having this on my Victor trials I used on the road
Neat box as well
Thanks Ryhatt I was hoping to just graft something onto the existing ignition system without adding any electronics really. I might pick up a cheap headlight and see what happens. I already have a Yamaha TY tail light which will look ok on the bike.
The boyer box replaces rectifier and zener so tidies things up
So I've successfully added a brake and tail light to the existing system. With a normal incandescent bulb the tail light pulses at tickover and the brake light stalls the engine at tickover as it robs the coil of juice. I've bought an LED bulb from Paul Goff and it works a treat now. Very pleased to have some lighting on my super simple system that I can diagnose with a meter when it goes wrong.
I think, back in the day, most motor cycle lights were A/C as the only rectifiers available were Selenium, so limited to a measly 3 Amperes. Even then they ran hot, but just sufficient for a battery ignition.
My C15T was set up for Trials, so had no lights, just a competition number plate on the front forks.
It's a very simple job to fit a modern voltage regulator in place of the rectifier and zener. With the option to go to 12V or keep it 6V.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363851878507?hash=item54b743106b:g:W6gAAOSw8bxij2sW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J1rFwW00TnQdcKmO8MMijXCJcVGt7zpr1SN5n%2BC3GO%2F2Bv9DEoq7snH7MDatHnJ5fNnRuO2UEZeIJ3KvL2MmWivpCptW6psnr7hy7Xw8n3FD1q7H2QZvta88xzEv4nhcr3kPnZ9bANrbLRkuLYIT4%2Fm02TpmBMIT21DFdTmzef6uS76z7fhhQZQdwyNzD%2B3BBB1DBiQgUOV7dRyCaZ7gnpA3YhODEjS05d2NmGvbOZV7jxFuRnvix6eBj939N8VoYcblyL5bcJATeF8uqaug4M%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rzooezYw (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363851878507?hash=item54b743106b:g:W6gAAOSw8bxij2sW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J1rFwW00TnQdcKmO8MMijXCJcVGt7zpr1SN5n%2BC3GO%2F2Bv9DEoq7snH7MDatHnJ5fNnRuO2UEZeIJ3KvL2MmWivpCptW6psnr7hy7Xw8n3FD1q7H2QZvta88xzEv4nhcr3kPnZ9bANrbLRkuLYIT4%2Fm02TpmBMIT21DFdTmzef6uS76z7fhhQZQdwyNzD%2B3BBB1DBiQgUOV7dRyCaZ7gnpA3YhODEjS05d2NmGvbOZV7jxFuRnvix6eBj939N8VoYcblyL5bcJATeF8uqaug4M%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rzooezYw)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113445642197?hash=item1a69e31fd5:g:7s4AAOSw8R9cETOn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GM79%2BvnQs2wxEUHHUAGFnMMa02GkWOORSaO3hEzY%2BEPNMo1rAi1LaUtUUTp26NZrmxfgVXtyEWV04yG6WlGHo2DeQ0rIlskx9ARI4asO7BqSfVYypO20khgvXjWMMOiw%2FNrX3INPpu1TDWnTPSKxCS7zBNYA%2BMcPSFLX65M34afhqrrX2tI1T8kv1557jFnKn2%2BMs2wZIJCbjJWhoie%2FJIuOf823T9TXXCBGxQv72ejg1h58%2BJc7Z3850NfvlYK6rhG27tRe%2B%2F9nhd9OLxmps19hxshYHIbP8j%2BYOB7Ul9T%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhIDEh7Nj (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113445642197?hash=item1a69e31fd5:g:7s4AAOSw8R9cETOn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GM79%2BvnQs2wxEUHHUAGFnMMa02GkWOORSaO3hEzY%2BEPNMo1rAi1LaUtUUTp26NZrmxfgVXtyEWV04yG6WlGHo2DeQ0rIlskx9ARI4asO7BqSfVYypO20khgvXjWMMOiw%2FNrX3INPpu1TDWnTPSKxCS7zBNYA%2BMcPSFLX65M34afhqrrX2tI1T8kv1557jFnKn2%2BMs2wZIJCbjJWhoie%2FJIuOf823T9TXXCBGxQv72ejg1h58%2BJc7Z3850NfvlYK6rhG27tRe%2B%2F9nhd9OLxmps19hxshYHIbP8j%2BYOB7Ul9T%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhIDEh7Nj)
Quote from: scifi on 11 Feb, 2024, 13:11
I think, back in the day, most motor cycle lights were A/C as the only rectifiers available were Selenium, so limited to a measly 3 Amperes. Even then they ran hot, but just sufficient for a battery ignition.
My C15T was set up for Trials, so had no lights, just a competition number plate on the front forks.
This is interesting as is -
Quote from: Derek996 on 11 Feb, 2024, 14:04
It's a very simple job to fit a modern voltage regulator in place of the rectifier and zener. With the option to go to 12V or keep it 6V.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363851878507?hash=item54b743106b:g:W6gAAOSw8bxij2sW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J1rFwW00TnQdcKmO8MMijXCJcVGt7zpr1SN5n%2BC3GO%2F2Bv9DEoq7snH7MDatHnJ5fNnRuO2UEZeIJ3KvL2MmWivpCptW6psnr7hy7Xw8n3FD1q7H2QZvta88xzEv4nhcr3kPnZ9bANrbLRkuLYIT4%2Fm02TpmBMIT21DFdTmzef6uS76z7fhhQZQdwyNzD%2B3BBB1DBiQgUOV7dRyCaZ7gnpA3YhODEjS05d2NmGvbOZV7jxFuRnvix6eBj939N8VoYcblyL5bcJATeF8uqaug4M%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rzooezYw (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363851878507?hash=item54b743106b:g:W6gAAOSw8bxij2sW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J1rFwW00TnQdcKmO8MMijXCJcVGt7zpr1SN5n%2BC3GO%2F2Bv9DEoq7snH7MDatHnJ5fNnRuO2UEZeIJ3KvL2MmWivpCptW6psnr7hy7Xw8n3FD1q7H2QZvta88xzEv4nhcr3kPnZ9bANrbLRkuLYIT4%2Fm02TpmBMIT21DFdTmzef6uS76z7fhhQZQdwyNzD%2B3BBB1DBiQgUOV7dRyCaZ7gnpA3YhODEjS05d2NmGvbOZV7jxFuRnvix6eBj939N8VoYcblyL5bcJATeF8uqaug4M%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_rzooezYw)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113445642197?hash=item1a69e31fd5:g:7s4AAOSw8R9cETOn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GM79%2BvnQs2wxEUHHUAGFnMMa02GkWOORSaO3hEzY%2BEPNMo1rAi1LaUtUUTp26NZrmxfgVXtyEWV04yG6WlGHo2DeQ0rIlskx9ARI4asO7BqSfVYypO20khgvXjWMMOiw%2FNrX3INPpu1TDWnTPSKxCS7zBNYA%2BMcPSFLX65M34afhqrrX2tI1T8kv1557jFnKn2%2BMs2wZIJCbjJWhoie%2FJIuOf823T9TXXCBGxQv72ejg1h58%2BJc7Z3850NfvlYK6rhG27tRe%2B%2F9nhd9OLxmps19hxshYHIbP8j%2BYOB7Ul9T%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhIDEh7Nj (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113445642197?hash=item1a69e31fd5:g:7s4AAOSw8R9cETOn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GM79%2BvnQs2wxEUHHUAGFnMMa02GkWOORSaO3hEzY%2BEPNMo1rAi1LaUtUUTp26NZrmxfgVXtyEWV04yG6WlGHo2DeQ0rIlskx9ARI4asO7BqSfVYypO20khgvXjWMMOiw%2FNrX3INPpu1TDWnTPSKxCS7zBNYA%2BMcPSFLX65M34afhqrrX2tI1T8kv1557jFnKn2%2BMs2wZIJCbjJWhoie%2FJIuOf823T9TXXCBGxQv72ejg1h58%2BJc7Z3850NfvlYK6rhG27tRe%2B%2F9nhd9OLxmps19hxshYHIbP8j%2BYOB7Ul9T%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhIDEh7Nj)
I'm new to these old bikes but used to ride a 1986 Rotax KTM that had a dead battery in it to allow the regulator/rectifier to work.
The rectifier in my C15 is the old type with the diodes mounted to cooling fins. I've not been able to find a maximum current rating for it. Is the thinking that this rectifier is unable to pass sufficient current to power lights?
The first Ebay reference is what you require, as it is a rectifier and regulator in one package. There are many different prices quoted. The second Ebay reference is for a 6 volt regulator only, such as you might use on a BSA C11 with a dc dynamo.
You need to do the mod to your alternator output wires to make it produce 12v ac, instead of the usual 6v ac. Also if your rectifier is the old Selenium type, they do get progressively worse, and produce 75% +ve and 25% -ve Current, before they retire altogether (with some really bad smelling fumes.)
Thanks sci-fi but still trying to understand why. Is it likely that I could run an LED headlight as well if I change the regulator/rectifier? The alternator is already converted to 12v.
Use the simplest boyer power box.
Contains all you need to run a bike , lights etc without a battery.
Has a delay on it allowing kicking rotation to fire the engine and then when running , supplies the lights etc
Thanks Ryhatt, I'm happy to change any parts on the bike as long as I need to but don't see why I need to do anything now that I have the tail and brake light working with the original system. If there's good reason to undo all the wiring I've already redone and start again I will but would rather not!
As long as you always remember to turn all or any lights off before trying to start the bike .