Hi all, been a while since I've been on the forum but thanks to Barry at TL engineering I now have crank, cases,con rods,barrel and head all nicely machined and ballanced. So now the engine rebuild can start I'll be on the forum again looking for help and advice starting all ready and I've not put the con rods into the crank. The manual shows an oil seal on the crankshaft between the bearing and the crankcase on the drive side but I can't see how this would work as the crankshaft is splined, I've added a couple of photos to show the bearing that was fitted by TL. I'd be very grateful for any help,cheers Dave.
Hi,
If you look in your box of bits you should find the spacer that fits over the end of the crank splines and buts up against the bearing. Look at the crank case from the outside and you will see that there is a space to fit the seal. When the crank and the seal are in place is in place it will be obvious where the spacer fits with the tapered edge towards the bearing.
Dave.
Cheers Dave, I'll dive into the box of bits tomorrow.
Hi all, making a little progress with the engine but could do with a photo of the engine in the frame if anyone has one,also I should probably be asking for advice on oil pump installation, whether there are any improvements I should be making. I'm also thinking wether I should be going 12 volt and what that would involve. As always any tips/ advice would be very welcome. Cheers Dave.
Hi. I've also just collected various engine parts from Barry at T&L Engineering. Their workmanship is spot on and they are always ready to offer advice and suggestions. Had many long calls with Barry concerning the job and he tolerated my numpty questions really well. I had the crank repaired and balanced, new small end bushes and pistons. Barrels re-sleeved bored and then painted. Heads rebuilt with new seats, guides, valves, springs. Cracks and missing lumps welded up and re-finished on the crank cases. new camshaft and bushes, new main bearings. Threads for the barrel studs re-threaded with inserts being made as necessary plus umpteen other minor jobs. As Barry had the crank/cases/cam he offered to assemble the bottom end, shimming end floats which seemed to be a no brainer. Was it all worth it? I think the cost was very reasonable for the amount of work done and I have, in effect, a new motor. It should now last another 60 odd years, that's assuming I put it back together correctly!! If you'd like to swap notes on how our rebuilds progress drop me a PM. Need to dig out the garage heater now.
Hi Rob, sent you a pm as suggested,Dave